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I'm a fan of their enhanced polished trigger (EPT) kit. I have them on all my ARs. It's smooth and the pull is less than a milspec trigger. You can find them on sale for $40. A Magpul rear BUIS, you can use the polymer one at that location. Also, if you buy another upper I would recommend getting a mid-length gas system next time. Same barrel length but it puts less stress on the reciprocating parts and the felt recoil is less. You'll have to see if you like the hand guard but if not it's relatively cheap for any sort of Magpul part. Honestly guns are like cars if you like to modify things, just depends upon how deep your pockets are.
I'm a fan of their enhanced polished trigger (EPT) kit. I have them on all my ARs. It's smooth and the pull is less than a milspec trigger. You can find them on sale for $40. A Magpul rear BUIS, you can use the polymer one at that location. Also, if you buy another upper I would recommend getting a mid-length gas system next time. Same barrel length but it puts less stress on the reciprocating parts and the felt recoil is less. You'll have to see if you like the hand guard but if not it's relatively cheap for any sort of Magpul part. Honestly guns are like cars if you like to modify things, just depends upon how deep your pockets are.
Was thinking about a trigger, but hear that the stock pull on these is 3.5lbs...we'll see if that's true or not. Seems low.
I was also thinking about replacing the handle and sight and handguard with a floating handguard and red dot.
I've never even shot one of these before so maybe a few hundred rounds need to cycle through before I get a better idea of what's needed.
Was thinking about a trigger, but hear that the stock pull on these is 3.5lbs...we'll see if that's true or not. Seems low.
I was also thinking about replacing the handle and sight and handguard with a floating handguard and red dot.
I've never even shot one of these before so maybe a few hundred rounds need to cycle through before I get a better idea of what's needed.
I think that pull is unrealistically low. The EPT tests around 5-6 lbs and I can't see a standard trigger being less than that without a different set of springs. The EPT is a lot smoother than standard, I know that. Personally I don't want a rifle trigger that is very light, maybe if I was in competition but I'm not.
Depending upon what distances you will be shooting, maybe consider one of Primary Arms' micro prism scopes instead of a red dot. I have two 3X and just bought a 5X which is waiting for me at home. They are very nice to shoot.
The reviews on that particular unit are mostly very good.
If you're broke and buying $300 kits, when you actually manage to hit the broad side of a barn from 50 feet, they're "a good buy". I love the answers to some of the questions for that kit... PSA apparently doesn't moderate their review section. I'm not a hater, I love PSA, and clearly I was broke at once too because my safe is full of PSA stuff.
Originally Posted by cordycord
If you had the basest of the base models, what would you add or change first?
Nothing. That goes in the safe and is something you loan to a (doesn't like guns) neighbor when the time comes so he can help hold down the block. If you don't have any stripped lowers in the safe currently, then spend the $300 on a half-dozen and every few months buy another $300 blem kit to add to the collection. All that gun needs is a fixed rear iron sight... maybe cheap Holosun or Sig Romeo5 since your neighbors won't be able to hit **** with irons (shake awake FTW). Put 10rds through it at 50yds to make sure it's "on"... then spray the **** out of it with your fav lube and put it waaaay back in the safe... get a few more to keep it company.
If you're broke and buying $300 kits, when you actually manage to hit the broad side of a barn from 50 feet, they're "a good buy". I love the answers to some of the questions for that kit... PSA apparently doesn't moderate their review section. I'm not a hater, I love PSA, and clearly I was broke at once too because my safe is full of PSA stuff.
I have a PSA 16" 5.56 assembled from a sale upper, bare lower and parts kit and it's surprisingly good. I've got about $500 in the basic gun, and it runs good, and is decently accurate... not quite MOA with ball 55gr, but darn close. It's proven itself good enough that it's now my 'travel' AR. IMHO if you have realistic expectations for 'milspec' performance out of an AR, PSA is a good value. I still have another bare PSA lower to build at some point...
I think the bigger concern for Cordy is AR lowers, but I'm not up on the current state of ARs in Commifornia.
I have been using that same kit for the past year or so. I have it on a 3dprinted lower. About 500 .223 rounds though it. You will need a rear iron sight for it. Otherwise it does good plinking at 100 yards and hitting metal targets.
I have a PSA 16" 5.56 assembled from a sale upper, bare lower and parts kit and it's surprisingly good. I've got about $500 in the basic gun, and it runs good, and is decently accurate... not quite MOA with ball 55gr, but darn close. It's proven itself good enough that it's now my 'travel' AR. IMHO if you have realistic expectations for 'milspec' performance out of an AR, PSA is a good value. I still have another bare PSA lower to build at some point...
I think the bigger concern for Cordy is AR lowers, but I'm not up on the current state of ARs in Commifornia.
That's good to hear. I've seen some reviews where the PSA assembled is put up against a $2k-$3k-$6k build, and they seem to be a great basic gun. I don't often shoot, so to spend $2-3-6k on something that sits in the closet doesn't make sense....to me, at least.
Let's be honest with ourselves. The average Joe doesn't have the skill level to utilize the accuracy potential of an up-scale weapon. In the event you need something for defense, in a SHTF scenario, you aren't going to be taking measured long distance shots. You just need something that will go bang reliably and hit minute of mass. Bonus points for a nice bayonet lug on the front for those up close and personal moments.
Where does one buy 3d printed lowers, or are you printing them yourself? Is it better to buy a stripped or lower assembly from PSA and pay the FFL or just try to find a gun shop locally peddling lowers? Asking for a friend.
Is it better to buy a stripped or lower assembly from PSA and pay the FFL or just try to find a gun shop locally peddling lowers? Asking for a friend.
Depends on what's available in your area. Looks like PSA stripped lowers start at $40. So add whatever your local shop charges for a transfer and compare that price to what you can find locally. PSA isn't top tier, but they are known good, so that's probably a good starting point compared to some no-name lower a local shop is selling. Most of the lowers I've seen in local shops here are the higher end stuff, but we're small town and don't have any really big volume gun retailers locally.
ARs are pretty easy to put together, but there are a few tools, some necessary, some that make life easier, that you'll want. If you're just building one, it probably makes more sense just to buy a gun. If you see multiples in your future, the tools are worth the investment.
The only special tool needed for the lower is the castle nut wrench (which is usually part of any AR "combo" wrench) for the buffer tube nut. That's already assembled, so you wouldn't need it at all.
Another option would be to purchase a jig, a router and some 80% lowers. They aren't hard to finish and you can decorate them to your heart's content. Or so I am told.
Another option would be to purchase a jig, a router and some 80% lowers. They aren't hard to finish and you can decorate them to your heart's content. Or so I am told.
you don’t even need a jig if you’re a handy man, just transfer the sticker onto it with sharpie and have a steady hand. What’s fun with 80% lowers and mill spec triggers is you can adjust the take up on the trigger by adjusting the depth of the trigger pocket relative to the safety, when the tail ofthe trigger just barely fits under the safety is the minimum take up.
So if I buy something like this, I won't need the specialty tools?
I would need a special tool that removes the silly restrictions in my state. VERY maddening that I can't partake of the most common gun platform in the country because of some misguided politicians.
you don’t even need a jig if you’re a handy man, just transfer the sticker onto it with sharpie and have a steady hand. What’s fun with 80% lowers and mill spec triggers is you can adjust the take up on the trigger by adjusting the depth of the trigger pocket relative to the safety, when the tail ofthe trigger just barely fits under the safety is the minimum take up.
Don't think my hand is steady enough to overcome the vibration of a router without something to guide it. Interesting about the trigger pocket, I'm going to have to look at things when I can lay hands on to see how that might work.
I would need a special tool that removes the silly restrictions in my state. VERY maddening that I can't partake of the most common gun platform in the country because of some misguided politicians.
The special tool you need is the Second Amendment. Of course it doesn't do any good if it is ignored.
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