This.

My craftsman set has never let me down.

OP, why not try and upgrade to better bolts?

 

I have tried all of the methods listed(Ive been a machinist for 6yrs) and to be honest with you the best way I have found is to weld a Nut on to the bolt....gives a better weld and the nut is usually concentric with the bolt allowing more force to be exerted on the fastener.....and I have seen those stubby extractors explode not fun picking that **** out of your skin....Just works for me
(G)

 

I didn't put the bolts in there, they were the stock 20 year old bolts. Let me try this again - look at the threads on the bottom bolt vs the threads on the top bolt and tell me that any sort of normal torque (no matter what kind of wrench/bolt remover/etc) would take it out. That bitch was not coming out. I got it red hot by welding another bolt on top of it and then used a cheater bar on a 1/2" socket breaker bar to break it loose. I thought I was going to break my impact socket extension in half getting it out of there. No, there is no way anyone's craftsman, snap on, whatever was going to get that bolt out of there. Trust me, you could not have removed that bolt with anything you have, a friend has, or anything you have ever seen.

 

looks like rust and corrosion. maybe some anti-seize?

i am alittle confused though. did you pull out some junkyard seats or in a car that was new to you?

 

I bought a 1990 125K mile "beach car" with a hard top for $1200. I'm using it as a donor car to replace the ugly shell on my LS1 Miata.

 

Ah that explains it. I had a "beach car" once. Bought it just north of Myrtle Beach. Between the salt and humidity, like you, I had alot of seized bolts.

Eventually just got rid of the car. It was a 1987 Toyota Cressida.

 

Why didn't you just use an easy out?

 

Hey Rob...why didn't you just use some PBBlaster?


Just kidding.

I think they thread title and pic are fitting, and that a lot of people have problems reading before posting.



I've had mixed success with all types of extracting solutions...not one really ever works in every situation. "Fabricating" a "new" head is usually failproof though. Whether it's welding, filing, or dremeling a slot, it always seems less time and frustration than fighting with everything else.

I have learned to soak known problem bolts in PB the night before I'm going to work on something.

 

 

I'm a PB guy but on this project of taking the car down to a shell (top is still on and so are the door panels - for now) I didn't have to soak much. That one seat bolt and one bolt on the cat converter were the only bad ones. Now it is time to do some seam welding!

 

Fae - Kroil is all we use in aviation. They have a half dozen versions.. We use Aero-Kroil...

 

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT...-SearchResults

 

There's always the BFH and one size smaller (Standard) impact socket method if you don't want to catch **** on fire. That's assuming you can get a good whack on the socket (should be able to for the ones holding the seat on with an extension).

 

I probably should have tried that first (easier than dragging everything out) since I have a pretty good set of impact sockets and a 5 lb sledge.

 

BFW>? Boyfriend's Hamster?

 

 

The hammer is my *****.

 

Bfp

 

the "F" is redundant there...