Get rid of the porsche. Stat.

Push your car in to it's place, and reap the benefits of a garage.

This should quickly be followed by pulling the oil pump plug and/or the sandwich plate.

I 100% understand how you are feeling. I have seriously put less then 1000 miles on my 94 since 2012 when I first started having oil pressure problems. Just with everything else going on with life getting to the car has been a challenge.

Unfortunately, mine is my only car.

miatatherapy.net

:dealwithit:

It be.

This is why I picked up my 92 miata as a beater/dd. The $1200 I have spent on it total over the past 5 years has been totally worth it.

Just curious - is it possible for you to have Josh or whoever dropped it in for you diagnose it? If you have no garage and/or tools to troubleshoot this properly.

I was going to say "oil pump isn't that hard to replace, you don't even need to yank the engine" but then you're working in a parking lot with what I'm assuming only the bare essential tools, so it might be a pain.

Actually, I do have a garage, and a fair amount of tools....but the garage is occupied by my friends car (long, complicated story). I do want to kick it out soon so I can organize my garage and work on my car.

I clicked on what I was hoping to be a link. It was followed by sadness.

LOL.

Oil pump and water pump on these cars are way harder than they should be. But especially the oil pump.

When I was diagnosing the cam trigger issue on that engine, it took about 10 minutes (no joke) to take off the whole front of the engine and have the water pump/oil pump completely exposed and ready to come out.

Maybe I'm missing something?

I know its not like pulling the valve cover, but still. It aint hard. I'm not sure you appreciate how simple these engines are compared to some others (esp newer cars)

PS: I feel OP's pain, because just a month or two ago I was almost in the same predicament, except over a completely unrelated issue.

You have to drop the pan to change the oil pump.

well nevermind then. I completely forgot

...if only there were a way to access the fucking relief valve without pulling the pump.



The twenty-five dollar and thirty-sever cent question is- Is there a "fix" for the relief valve or is it better to just replace the whole damn thing? I'm seriously contemplating putting myself in a bit of a financial pickle in order to have the car back on the road ASAP and that plan involves sucking up for the BE pump.....


This is assuming that when the pan gets pulled, the metal flecks I found in the oil aren't of concern :/

What's the price difference? that vvt pump is expensive, but if it's still a few hundred dollars, I wouldn't stress your money situation any further. It's just a car.

First task needs to be getting rid of the Porsche, while simultaneously signing up for a car-to-go program. You can't keep working on it if every time it needs to go back together and cleaned up. Often the first few hours of car work is spent getting it on jack stands, wheels off, your space organized, and removing a few things. You can't keep wasting your time doing that every day.

It's really getting to be more of a matter of time now. Take the car to AR and get it back in less time than finding someone with ramps to get Jenn's car into her garage.

Serious question though- Is it a better to take the pump off and recondition the valve or just replace the pump with a new one?

Eat ramen for a week/month/whatever and do the BE pump.

if its the valve, it has already been reconditioned, so I wouldn't want to take any more chances with it. like seriously, I hand polished it til it was shiny and slid in/out easier than a man train at a hustler party

Was it mic'd before and after? If you took any material off, i could see it jamming easier.

I'm talking about oplishing with like 2500 sandpaper, then actually buffing with a polisher.
it looked/felt like a mirror
not removing any material. (well you know what I mean, like .00000001 or something)

referenced this thread when I was doing it too, just to make sure I'm not missing or forgetting anything.

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...il-pump-65290/

Tough love in this post, beware.

Stop fucking cranking it, pull the pan, and replace the oil pump, and do it preferably before you fuck up the bearings any further. The relief valve is obviously stuck open, and there is no amount of fuckery that you will do aside from replacing the entire part that will fix this. Stop risking a $3000 motor to save a $300 pump that is very obviously broken.

There is a major lack of common sense in this thread.

Thanks Andrew. That is the current plan. Fuckery has stopped. Car will be going to shop and BE pump installed. I'm just working the financials right now. The troubleshooting I did on Monday was enough for me.

Now I blame Vlad for not using a new pump. Thanks Vlad...you dick.

:cry:

:glare:

Car is now in the shop. Yay.

MT community:



At least Martin followed the MT wisdom at AR. Glad you're back on the road though.

What happened? Who's Martin?

Martin is greddygalant. He was happy to have mike's (Dopple's) car leave his garage after engine pulling, shipping, and install delays. Only to have it show up at his work, Adrenaline Racing. He followed our advice and found a clogged FM relocation plate.

so that was it? it works now?

and it was that all along, just like I said, and after he bitched me out for using an OEM pump?

LOL

Not only this, but I told mike several times through text to ditch the damn thing prior to it showing up at AR. Lo and behold ditch FM piece, put on filter in OEM location, bam oil pressure.
Regardless,hopefully Mike gets everything squared away soon and gets it tuned properly.

As funny as this is, I'm happy to hear the car has pressure. Thank the oil gods. How was the relocation clogged? I feel like that shouldn't happen...

It was 'in good fun' bitching at you lol...not that I was really holding you to it or anything (unless there is something I can hold for you :giggle: )

Me neither. I'll be taking it apart soon to find out what got in there. That thing has been on the car since before I owned it and makes no logical sense as to something clogging it.
I'm happy though. I've squared away a few details. I drove the car a bit with the WG wired open, then did some driving with the WG connected but stayed under 4psi....all felt well. Once the knock sensor is back on, I'll hook up the lappy toppy and set the MBC to 10psi so I can drive the car fairly normally until I can get to KO Racing and have it tuned.


I already put 100mi on it lol
Yeah, the valve lash definitely need checking though...it sounds a bit like a NA 1.8 that's been driven hard.


BTW Martin, it helps when the charge pipe is ON the end of the compressor outlet....not just sitting next to it...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402383564

Fussy, fussy.

Honestly who would have guessed that the extra sandwich plate was causing the problem. It is not like a mod on here has ever had exactly the same problem before.

Fuck getting that pipe on. I was trying to help a guy at the Mitty get it on and it was a royal PITA.

I didn't touch that charge pipe when you brought it to the shop. It was attached when you left my house, Josh will confirm that. Probably for the best though, just to make sure you don't break it again :P xoxoxo

But seriously, that pipe sucks, it runs on everything.
How is is the car otherwise?

That pipe looks like a future coolant leak to me.

It's still not logical lol. Really, yes, between you and what Josh and Martin said...but look at the odds on rebuilt engines on here and stuck relief valves vs. shit stuck in the oil system. As for the pipe- pussy. I put it back on after driving the car...hot coolant line, hot turbo, hot exhaust manifold....and it only took me like 5 minutes.

Riiiiiiight. It was either you or Josh who did it, but it's more fun to blame you.
See post above for status of car.


Nah, once it's properly over the compressor, the clamp doesn't touch the coolant hose.

Bout to drive up to oregon and get into a slap fight with you.
rebuilt engines on here having stuck valves?
oh no you di-innnnt girfrandd:giggle:
I polished that valve harder than you polish your knob every evening :magna:

Regardless, that hot side intercooler pipe touches like 3 different locations, and I think over time it will tear just like your previous one, it needs to be shielded sooner rather than later.

Yup, somehow the slammed dopplemobile's upper control arm has enough pivoting movement to rub through the last hot side pipe. It also rubs on the lower radiator line and AC line as pictured.

A scrap of the old hose wrapped around the new hose would probably buy you some time, but it may just wear through faster, as it would be thicker.

Cars truly are never ending projects.

So if anyone is curious- I pulled the rest of the filter relocation...as in the filter mount on the firewall. Inspection reveals NOTHING. All ports/passage ways and everything on the sandwich plate are perfectly clean. I'll grab a can of brake cleaner and spray out the lines to see if anything is in there. The mystery deepens...

yeah, the filter sandwich plate is exactly for fucked Shiuend's motor. Somehow it cut all oil pressure, I dont think he bothered to figure out why, just removed it.