Good call. I'd do some playing around with that. Maybe fine tune it yourself with det cans? It sounds like MS uses a threshold instead of an offset table like Adaptronic. Just make sure you don't start ignoring it in other areas of the RPM range. A knock light that goes off regularly is just as bad as one that never goes off.

 

lol flashing immobilizer light? That never stops flashing on my car. I don't get the CEL flash though, ever. Definitely want to do some more looking into that.

Also, what's up with your sig? Your car doesn't seem ruined...

 

You should be able to just raise the configured setting to display the knock CEL. So it doesn't come on all the time.That is, if your positive it's not actually knock.

 

he doesn't even have an MS lol

 

Yea I do lol

 

im talking about turbofan (ed)

 

I'm sure this ^ post was directed at Mazdaspeeder.

Is the CEL flashing for knock only an MS thing?

 

as far as I know, yes.
but maybe I'm wrong.

 

I think other ECUs can use the CEL for various functions. The immobilizer flashing is just because of the stock ECU not being in the car. Some newer MS units have a feature to make the light stop flashing.

The comment in my sig is for something that happened a long time ago. I actually changed it because if it wasn't for their antics i wouldn't have gotten to build this car, but I'd also have been about $15,000 richer. I just decided to go all out though.

 

The Enhanced MS2 and the Basic MS3 do have a threshold table vs RPM.

 

Rev, which connector did you say has to be disconnected when loading a new tune? Reason I ask is we're gonna log it saturday and I have a backup tune with some timing taken out of the top if it does turn out to be concerning noise.

 

that's when flashing firmware.
changing map takes .02 seconds and requires nothing but pressing the keys on the computer

 

That is a beautiful build list. I've always wanted to do a similar build.

 

Beautiful build, good job!

 

Saw this car in person tonight! Only wish we had time to take a spin around the block haha.

 

I owe ya a ride next time

 

So the good word is in. Took a log 1st through 4th gear up to about 90mph. Had the CEL come on top of 3rd but not 4th. Sent to Ken

As soon as it detects "knock", it pulls 2.5* of timing, and then another 2.5* and begins t add back .5* at a time over the course of about 1000rpm. He said the noise is increasing gradually and not suddely so there's no reason to think it's knock. The sensor sensitivity needs to be recalibrated. Basically right now it's pulling timing as a safety for no reason, so I feel at ease about the motor and tune. We will fix the knock sensitivity and proceed with life.

 

Yep, these ancient BP's are noisy little buggers.

We had a whole thread in the Adaptronic section when we were 1st setting up knock windowing and all of us had a massive spike in false knock at a certain rpm range.

 

Mine comes on right around 5500rpm like the video. Only close to or at full throttle. My piston to wall is .004 and I have wisecos so I do get some cold noise but it's super nice once warm. Only engine noise I hear arethe lifters and misc operation through my exhaust leak

Speaking of full throttle, really wanting that skunk 2 throttle body. Seems like a cheat not to get it at this point as a failure there could cost thousands. Should I do it? I really want me some NA valve cover bolts too.

 

So I was doing more reading and in retrospect am not sure that I made some of the right choices. The car is primarily street driven but has the Wiseco 2816 pistons. The specs are as follows

P2W - .004
Main Bearing .002
Rod Bearing .002

I get some slap when its cold but the motor sounds good once its up and running. Just wondering what kind of lifespan I can expect from this setup. Also wondering how long the 2816 piston expansion and contraction takes. For example, if I stop somewhere for an hour, do I need to warm up the pistons again before setting off, or does it take several hours for them to "shrink". Same for how long they expand. I've been googling this for a few days now but no definite answers. I just see how many people use Supertech or other 4032 pistons and can't help feel I made a mistake. I'm not tearing the slugs out of the block, but would like to know if I can expact this thing to last 40 or 50k miles. I know FM uses Wisecos, but custom ones with longer skirts.

Anyone been using Wiseco or similar 2816 pistons for considerable time/miles?