Pics of your wideband displays/gauges
 

Im curious to see what some of you are running, how and where they are mounted. Im very picky with my gauges, since I like to match style and color, which really only leaves Autometer G2 green gauges, but they dont have a matching wideband for it (they do, but it looks like ass). Im guessing I will just have to bite the bullet and go for the LC-1 with XD-16. Ive installed 2 on other cars, and love the system, but was really hoping for something else. Ive actually thought about going as far as changing the rest of my gauges to match whatever wideband I get, or at least backlight color.

BTW, it doesnt just have to be wideband, Id like to also see your other gauges mounting locations and gauge style. I noticed other people asking in another topic about the posters boost gauge and water temp gauge, thought this thread might be helpful to some.

I went with the Dynotune display for the LC-1 with Green backlight. Car isn't running right now but here's the gauge:

DynoTune Product, 029-WideBand Round Display for innovate Controllers - DynoTune, Nitrous systems, Purge kits, Nitrous Bottle heaters and more!

Frank

Miata Turbo FAQ: Cheap Wideband Gauge

Was cheap and looks fine to me.

I hear that, the XD16 gauge is damn beefy and sticks out like a sore thumb compared to my VDO's.

C

This is how I mounted my boost gauge to my pillar


DropShots.com

looks good man..i just dont like that the gauge doesnt have a vacuum readout

Wideband on the left (Zeitronix ZR-2) also has Boost and EGT as well.

Aquamist DDS3 in the middle and oil temp on the right.

Attachment 209426



Cheers
Mark

Cool gauge panel / surround.

The bezels not matching would drive me insane.

That is an expensive center console/gauge panel.

I would like to go with a pillar pod again just for simplicity, but I hated the gauges in my Turbo II. They were LED, and blinded me at night. Maybe some standard incandescent through the gauge lighting would be better and less blinding. Anything from about my 10 oclock to my 2 oclock was hard to see because of the super bright LED's. They were Sport Comp II.

I have a dual gauge pod but not using it to avoid theft. It would be nice to have oil temp easier to see.

LC1 and DEFI boost gauge in a Moss A-pillar.

Vash-

I think I decided on Autometer Nexus gauges. They are expensive on a stupid level, but I really like the color selection feature, as well as an all red warning mode. Set the parameters to what you specify, and when it exceeds that parameter, the entire gauge lighting goes red. That would be helpful to avoid overboosting or overly lean conditions since I will most likely have the gauges installed under the radio, and out of easy sight. be much easier to see a bright red light that a needle 5 psi over what you want, or a slight lean condition. I figure with the control unit, wideband, boost and egt gauge, I will be about $1200 out of pocket... :eek5: Im OCD and very ---- about stuff matching. Might slim it down to a 2 gauge setup though, egt isnt a big deal, probably would be better to have something like oil temp first anyway.

Uego in the middle left vent, Hks boost gauge over the steering column, matching Hks dash gauges. I'll get some pics in the near future.

I have 5 gauges mounted in the passenger crash pad,on the A-pillar,I got the boost/vacuum and tach.

Attachment 209375

Top to bottom:
Autometer sport comp 2- 270* sweep oil temp
Autometer sport comp 2- boost gauge, from 30 inches-20psi
Lc1- in the side vent, i miss my air :(

Your not blinded by the SC2 gauges? Mine were terrible in my RX7. I love that wheel though, I have one on the way, just the 350mm version. Best wheel for the Miata imo.

i use my profec e-01 boost controller as my 02 gauge

how do you guys secure the gauges in the air ducts?

just push them in, my aem uego fit very snuggly. I suppose I'll have to get a picture eventually, cause thats what the threads about.

Attachment 209361
Attachment 209362

Its not as dirty as the picture suggests, I was using a crappy camera and I couldn't quickly figure out how to turn the flash off, its showing a lot of dust.

Camera with flash always finds a way to make your perfectly spotless interior look like it hasnt been cleaned in months. Looks good.

Thanks. Definitely not spotless though, but cleaner than the photos lead you to believe. The driver side foot well does look as bad as the photo shows though, I need to put some grip tape down there or something, cause paint is always going to be scratched off fairly quickly. Originally I had the stock floor mats down there which looked real good. I took them out for track days, and one time I just never put them back in. They did slide around a bit without the carpet for the spikes to dig into. Next needs to be a racing seat probably. Does anyone know if the new momo start still bolts onto the stock slider rails with relative ease?

what quickrelease is that?

Momo Champion wheel, Momo miata wheel adaptor, and LTB motorsport's quick release.

LTB QUICK RELEASE ( BOLT ON )


I found this awesome wheel for you:

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c..._2031_17125329

guages in the a/c vents FTW!

http://i43.tinypic.com/2nhgg49.jpg

What the fuck!!!!

I just lost some respect for MOMO.

Why would they produce something hideous like that.

It even says "********" on it... PERFECT addition to any nice car! :crx:

The autometer is held in pretty snugly by running a few laps of duct tape around the body, but I had to gut the vent to get my UEGO to fit, the bezel is enormous. Right now I can spin the gauge around inside the vent but I could cure that with some sticky-back velcro pretty easily.

sorry for the terrible cellphone picture, also it is most likely getting moved to an A pillar pod along with a boost gauge whenever I decide to buy one (but alas no boost to measure so far). Also, after this picture was taken I installed an LED and a push-button switch for to make calibrations a snap ... Irony is that the damn LC1 was working great and now it is acting up after the led/switch. I even removed the circuit to no avail .. oh well thats owning an LC1 for you, picky little devices they are.

Gauges on the A pillar are Pro Sport's. They suck dont bother with them. Neither of them work correctly anymore so I need to replace them.
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Here is the setup that I've grown fond of... been really happy with the OEM look and the cops don't follow me nearly as much as they did when I had gauges on the A pillar...

Trying to keep it low key and fairly OEM...here is the solution I found.

The gauge bracket is fairly thick steel with spring clips on the side. The kit came with 2 choices of "carbon fiber" stickers to go either silver or black...or no sticker at all and it's just plain black paint. Works well in either top or bottom of the stereo hole.

Hope this helps...
Cheers,
ProsperoAttachment 9539

Where did you get that mount from? Im looking to do exactly the same thing with my gauges.

The lights are wired into a switch where the power windows would be. If its dark out and they are bothering me i switch them off, ill also switch them off if in doing hwy driving at night.

If you put it on the a-pillar put it as close to the bottom as possible. Fingers can get caught on it. I have the XD-16, it is a nice piece, but if i were to do it all over, I would go with the DB gauge. The XD-16 is not worth the extra cost.
Stephanie

It was an eBay thing...bought it over a year ago so my histroy is gone. I'll look around and see what I can find.

Cheers,
Prospero

I'm as concerned with A/C, but I couldn't do with out heat. I could never cover the vents, unless it was a track only car.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3234/...5492282b_b.jpg

BTW all the crap on the console, and floor is from after my car was broken into, and a jerk tried to steal my radio, and a few other things. I'm not always a fan, but sometimes it great to have full coverage, even on a 92 miata.

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic, but I really havent been driving the turbo car in this weather. Took it out the other day so I took this pic. AEM boost gauge on top and AEM UEGO on the bottom. I like it but its sooo damm expensive. I used to have a prosport in the top but it was too damm bright. I dont need to give the cops a reason to pull me over. If I had to do it again, I wouldnt pay the 180 for the AEM boost gauge.

http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/55...600x600Q85.jpg

http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingg...ationfault.jpg

;)

Left to right:
DEFI Red Racer (-30 inHG / +30 PSI)
Innovate DB-1
Spa Technique dual oil/temp

The spa dual gauge has a programmable warning light for both. It also has an external output to drive a relay for an external LED warning light for each gauge. The warning lights on the gauge face and the external warning light outputs are configured separately so you can have the gauge light come on at high oil temp, and the external light come on at really high temps, if you want.

The boost gauge does not have a warning light. However, SPA now makes an analog vacuum/boost gauge (-30/+30) with the same range. Other than being an analog display, the electronics are the same as on my oil temp/pressure gauge - it has a warning light on the gauge face, as well as an external output to trigger a relay for a second warning light. It comes in several different gauge face / backlight combinations - black face w/red through-dial lighting is one of them.

One thing I really like about my gauges is that when the car is off, the gauges are blank. The boost and wideband are simply blank circles of glass. And they're in the console, so they're not terribly obvious. I like the functionality/visibility of A-pillar gauges but for me they draw too much external scrutiny from the theft and law enforcement communities.

The pushbutton between the boost and wideband gauges (if you can see it in the pics) controls the dim/full bright for the boost and wideband. That was by far the simplest option wiring-wise, and it allows me to run them full brightness during the daytime when I have the lights on.

The LCD in front of the shifter is a scangauge II. Awesome little device. It's velcroed into place there; the cable for it comes straight out the back and runs through the hole in the console faceplate for the indicator light for the passenger airbag switch. My passenger airbag switch is still present and connected, but it's not clipped into the console faceplate anymore. It's shoved back up in there and wrapped with some foam. I had to widen the hole just a bit to get the connector through but otherwise it's completely reversible.

Gary over at TrackDog Racing assembled/secured the gauges into the panel for me and wired everything up into a harness, and he did a great job. I did the install and added the dimmer pushbutton.

BTW I know the wideband is indicating pretty lean - the O2 sensor isn't actually connected to the LC-1 yet since I haven't had a chance to get the bung for it added. No boost yet, motor's still stock.