Yet another reason to go AbsurdFlow
 

Attachment 203032

Because modifying wrenches isn't needed for that middle bottom nut.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...r/IMG_0867.jpg

While I do believe the AbsurdFlow mani to be a better piece, I was able to install my BEGi S5 mani with an unmodified 14mm Craftsman wrench. I can't see why everyone has such a problem, 1.6 cars maybe?

I hate you

<-Jealous

And from the top no less, I'm jealous.

my ETD doesn't require modified wrenches.

everyone has nipples too, not just you.

I used a typical craftsman box wrench on mine...

I don't have anything on that stud....Whatever.

I used this ho:
http://toolguyd.com/blog/wp-content/...t-wrenches.jpg
Mine is a bit tighter than yours, but equally glorious.

I imagine Andrew is holding your hand on this, but I mistanely had a leak at the dp. You probably need a friend to help hold the downpipe to make sure its flush when putting the clamp on.

When I fixed this I went from making 11psi at 3600 to 3200rpm, lol.

Welcome to the crew up superior fabrication. I'm not only a client, I'm the player president.

lol.

Impressive. :D

12 & 14mm combo FTW!

What are the squares on top of the manifold? Are they future EGT bungs to be drilled?

PS looking good.

I too had no issues accessing my nut with a standard wrench on my s5 manifold.

Gussetting...its what you need when your balls drop and you cut a hot-lap for the first time in your life.

:giggle:

Nick,
What are you doing about turbine/chra hardware? I'm trying the "nimonic" shit with inconel safety wire. If that fails I'm dropping off the green car to Mike Minnet in Fort Worth with an LS3, T56, and 8.8 rear...after I grow a few thousand bucks.

I see the problem. His turbocharger is guzzling beer.

Sounds painful.

Strange, i always had a hell of a time getting that nut on with my begi cast mani. I thought everyone had one of these:
Attachment 203031

No, by myself. I actually rigged up a few pieces of 2x4 to hold the bottom of the dp in place while i played with it a bit. No leaks that i know of yet. Only test drove it a mile or so last night.

There is currently nothing on it. I need to get the car to a fabricator for some solid charge pipes to finish up my exhaust then to TC design for a cage. Ill be safety wireing mine with ss wire before the car sees any boost. I would have safety wired it before i put it together but i broke like 3 drill bits. These bolts are strong.

buy inconel wire...no more chances. I think I'm going to start with the TiAL bolts I already bought, wired with inconel, and if that fails I will use the "nimonic" shit from Williams F2. I'd rather drill on the $10 hardware than drill on the $130 nut and stud combo that is sure to wreck my life.

I was able to point my charge pipes "down" unlike most others with the AF stuff and I just had Abe/ARTech use the old begi pipes.

BTW, I'm also thinking about trying to get the 11psi BOV spring to work becuase I had very high Silicon #'s on my last uoa most likely from the BOV staying open.

backwards too.

EDIT: I'm glad to see it went together with one person Nick. I do it by myself but have had a lot of experience and sorta know how get it together on my back and in what order, etc. I am thinking of ways of making it easier...that burns doubleslip stuff is theoretically tits but as you guys can tell the 3" section is more of a PITA than it should be. I think an extra $30 for a v-band instead of the double slip would be more ideal (vband may be the same price ultimately for the next builds I may do, cause there's a lot of fab time in there to get that 3" slip to actually go together, may redos there). And find a damn way to get a 1.5" flex in there somewhere.

I plan to re do the charge pipes down, but my god damm drain is going to cut it really close. Happen to have any pictures of how it looks down there?

Link to cheapest place you found the safety wire? I actually ran out of SS wire last night so i need more anyways.
I would have preferred a v-band down there for future reference. For an addition 30-50 bucks it would be way worth it. Those doubleslip joints were a huge PITA to get together from under the car.

Btw, i am super happy with how close everything is with the dp and wastegate tube in terms of clearance. Tits!

I thought I could get those double slips to work; I kept thinking I was doing something wrong. Maybe I am...but I had to find a 3" pipe that was slightly smaller than 3" to use as the inner section. The 3" j-bend pipe was a hair larger than 3" (like .010), so I had to cut it out and add a different pipe even though it was a the perfect length. That pisses me off. Another weld joint to brace and possibly crack, more time, etc. No more double slips on the 3" pipe.

Now the 1.5" never gave me a problem on any of the downpipes.

I'm glad to hear you are happy so far. Did you get your BOV?

Nick, I can't find my damn oil-return pics. I used 45* swivel fittings and let it snake around, but never dipping below the pan fitting. I'm going to get ARTech to make a hardline for me soon.


I agree with the v-banding. I'm using cheap v-bands from "siliconeintakes.com" on my exhaust parts now because they're only $30 for 3" flanges and clamps combines. I think anything that you put on the DP or turbo of course should be the male/female tial greatness.

That looks terrible.

That drain looks .... ew.

Hustler....seriously...how could YOU even THINK that drain was good?

Maybe it's the angle of the pic...but I wouldn't drive MY piece of shit with a drain like that...and I'm a ghetto riggin mother fucker.

I don't think its the angle, that drain sucks.

there is no other option than making a hardline...and I don't own welding equipment. The train is roughly 1/2" above the oil pan return.

Savington's is a fucking loop and works fine.

Ok...if you say it's necessity.

Pic looks like you've got about 2" to play with...and though you looped that stainless line that was two long as opposed to a piece of silicone line without kink.

Just surprised me for how much you obsess over shit.

I tried to go as short as possible and that's the amount of hose I needed to get a gentle bend and not a kink.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/projects...p/DSC_0004.JPG

How much different its yours than mine. Make it work.

Thanks, look like I have work to do.

Mine is 1 90 and 1 straight. Maybe like 2-3" of line between the 2. I also, slightly, clocked my chra to make it work. Only a few degrees.

I need to get rid of the stacked adapters from my begi kit I guess.

I have a -10an on the pan and a bolt on -10an adapter on the return.

Double slips aren't needed downstream of the turbine anyway. They're intended to seal against high pressure. Great for turbo manifolds if you have the real estate (and a fat wallet).

Another reason not to go ABSURDflow ;)

Yeah I guess you are right. I thought it'd be easy, and they look cool. Live and learn.

Speaking of oil drains. What size drill and tap did you guys use on my car for the oil pan? I sent your brother a message and he was gonna check with you and your dad. Im puttin in a new engine and need to tap the oil pan again.

We actually didn't drill or tap the oil pan. We just cut the threaded section of an AN fitting and JBWeld'ed it on there. Much simpler. Looks legit. I figured you'd blow the motor up before the turbo anyway.

cuz that's how the pros do it.

http://gallery.y8s.com/d/306-3/DSC00612.jpg

gotta be careful when you tighten it or you'll pull it right off.

I was actually joking. :inout:

better shot:

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...serialNumber=1


I know Brgracer had to do something like you, Hustler, did to get his to work. His turbo was so low that the ends of the fittings were touching each other, there was able 1/8" of visible hose.

I thought so. Cause I remembered asking about if I should JB weld it if it started to leak. Its definitely threaded.

Legit

Attachment 202941

Not legit

http://gallery.y8s.com/d/306-3/DSC00612.jpg

;)

Now only if I had something to hook to it.

You're putting words in my mouth now. I think your mani is the tits. I just think that there is much room for improvement in that return line. He just needs to angle the fitting on the pan differently and then shorten that line by like half.

I just ordered new, shorter fittings. You can rest easy.

the AN fitting is tapped into the oil pan and only uses JB as thread sealant because of the teflon tape no-no... it is track proven legit.

Personally, If I had a choice I would want something like y8s has but made of SS and has a nut on the other side that is then welded to the fitting once tightened down. Then you never have to worry about threads shearing from over tightening and it will never leak because of the JB.

I know, I know. Its perfectly fine if you do it that way with the engine still in the car, but if you go JB weld and the engine is out of the car, shame on you!

Even more legit
http://www.inoneear.com/outtheother/...r4/OilPan1.JPG

I don't see anything wrong with using JBWeld as a thread sealant. That's what I used on my 1.6.

hmm ok. please link me to the source for the aluminum -10 Female version. I have a second 01 oil pan that is already off the car and drilled. :D

The female pan pictured is full of fail IMHO. The purpose of the 37deg angle is to provide a leak free seal. Without it all you have is just another threading. The male version pictured by Tim is the only way to go it you are doing weld on.

If I could redo it I would have done male, but the idea with going female was I wasn't going turbo right away, and wouldn't have a way to cap off the AN fitting otherwise. Unless they make a female AN cap that I have never seen before. It was a good choice since I'm still not turbo and if I ever do it will still be years down the road. Female bung is still win over JB welded ugly mess.

Not sure if you seriously wanted a link or not. I think it was this one in my case, 3/8''NPT

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15252/10002/-1

Considering it was $5 for the bung and only cost me a small tip (guy wouldn't charge me for welding it on) it beats the hell out of doing a JB weld job down the road and having to deal with drilling and tapping on the car.

You mean like these plugs? AN PLUMBING.COM Earls performance products, Hose ends Hose,Adapters, fittings

OK, you win... :facepalm::loser: if I had known they existed I would have gone that route.

These are what I'm using to plug both of my AN bungs right now. (BTW Running NA sucks but we all know that)

I'll weld on an AN bung for you matt for free, just pay for the shipping both ways, or you can give it to me (or pick it up) at the dyno day.

oh my bad, I meant MALE. I already have the female plug cap. looks like they're 5-15 bucks. not bad!