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Old 10-23-2009, 06:12 PM   #21
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I see the problem. His turbocharger is guzzling beer.
backwards too.

EDIT: I'm glad to see it went together with one person Nick. I do it by myself but have had a lot of experience and sorta know how get it together on my back and in what order, etc. I am thinking of ways of making it easier...that burns doubleslip stuff is theoretically **** but as you guys can tell the 3" section is more of a PITA than it should be. I think an extra $30 for a v-band instead of the double slip would be more ideal (vband may be the same price ultimately for the next builds I may do, cause there's a lot of fab time in there to get that 3" slip to actually go together, may redos there). And find a damn way to get a 1.5" flex in there somewhere.
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Old 10-23-2009, 09:03 PM   #22
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buy inconel wire...no more chances. I think I'm going to start with the TiAL bolts I already bought, wired with inconel, and if that fails I will use the "nimonic" **** from Williams F2. I'd rather drill on the $10 hardware than drill on the $130 nut and stud combo that is sure to wreck my life.

I was able to point my charge pipes "down" unlike most others with the AF stuff and I just had Abe/ARTech use the old begi pipes.

BTW, I'm also thinking about trying to get the 11psi BOV spring to work becuase I had very high Silicon #'s on my last uoa most likely from the BOV staying open.

I plan to re do the charge pipes down, but my god damm drain is going to cut it really close. Happen to have any pictures of how it looks down there?

Link to cheapest place you found the safety wire? I actually ran out of SS wire last night so i need more anyways.
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backwards too.

EDIT: I'm glad to see it went together with one person Nick. I do it by myself but have had a lot of experience and sorta know how get it together on my back and in what order, etc. I am thinking of ways of making it easier...that burns doubleslip stuff is theoretically **** but as you guys can tell the 3" section is more of a PITA than it should be. I think an extra $30 for a v-band instead of the double slip would be more ideal (vband may be the same price ultimately for the next builds I may do, cause there's a lot of fab time in there to get that 3" slip to actually go together, may redos there). And find a damn way to get a 1.5" flex in there somewhere.
I would have preferred a v-band down there for future reference. For an addition 30-50 bucks it would be way worth it. Those doubleslip joints were a huge PITA to get together from under the car.

Btw, i am super happy with how close everything is with the dp and wastegate tube in terms of clearance. ****!
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Old 10-24-2009, 01:40 PM   #23
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I would have preferred a v-band down there for future reference. For an addition 30-50 bucks it would be way worth it. Those doubleslip joints were a huge PITA to get together from under the car.

Btw, i am super happy with how close everything is with the dp and wastegate tube in terms of clearance. ****!
I thought I could get those double slips to work; I kept thinking I was doing something wrong. Maybe I am...but I had to find a 3" pipe that was slightly smaller than 3" to use as the inner section. The 3" j-bend pipe was a hair larger than 3" (like .010), so I had to cut it out and add a different pipe even though it was a the perfect length. That pisses me off. Another weld joint to brace and possibly crack, more time, etc. No more double slips on the 3" pipe.

Now the 1.5" never gave me a problem on any of the downpipes.

I'm glad to hear you are happy so far. Did you get your BOV?
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Old 10-24-2009, 03:11 PM   #24
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Nick, I can't find my damn oil-return pics. I used 45* swivel fittings and let it snake around, but never dipping below the pan fitting. I'm going to get ARTech to make a hardline for me soon.


I agree with the v-banding. I'm using cheap v-bands from "siliconeintakes.com" on my exhaust parts now because they're only $30 for 3" flanges and clamps combines. I think anything that you put on the DP or turbo of course should be the male/female tial greatness.
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Old 10-25-2009, 12:41 PM   #25
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Old 10-25-2009, 12:48 PM   #26
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That looks terrible.
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Old 10-25-2009, 12:55 PM   #27
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That drain looks .... ew.
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Old 10-25-2009, 01:11 PM   #28
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Hustler....seriously...how could YOU even THINK that drain was good?

Maybe it's the angle of the pic...but I wouldn't drive MY piece of **** with a drain like that...and I'm a ghetto riggin mother ******.
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Old 10-25-2009, 01:18 PM   #29
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I don't think its the angle, that drain sucks.
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Old 10-25-2009, 01:40 PM   #30
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Hustler....seriously...how could YOU even THINK that drain was good?

Maybe it's the angle of the pic...but I wouldn't drive MY piece of **** with a drain like that...and I'm a ghetto riggin mother ******.
there is no other option than making a hardline...and I don't own welding equipment. The train is roughly 1/2" above the oil pan return.

Savington's is a ******* loop and works fine.
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Old 10-25-2009, 01:44 PM   #31
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there is no other option than making a hardline...and I don't own welding equipment. The train is roughly 1/2" above the oil pan return.

Savington's is a ******* loop and works fine.
Ok...if you say it's necessity.

Pic looks like you've got about 2" to play with...and though you looped that stainless line that was two long as opposed to a piece of silicone line without kink.

Just surprised me for how much you obsess over ****.
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:00 PM   #32
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I tried to go as short as possible and that's the amount of hose I needed to get a gentle bend and not a kink.
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:07 PM   #33
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How much different its yours than mine. Make it work.
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:31 PM   #34
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Thanks, look like I have work to do.
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:38 PM   #35
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Mine is 1 90 and 1 straight. Maybe like 2-3" of line between the 2. I also, slightly, clocked my chra to make it work. Only a few degrees.
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:44 PM   #36
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Mine is 1 90 and 1 straight. Maybe like 2-3" of line between the 2. I also, slightly, clocked my chra to make it work. Only a few degrees.
I need to get rid of the stacked adapters from my begi kit I guess.
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:53 PM   #37
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I have a -10an on the pan and a bolt on -10an adapter on the return.
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Old 10-25-2009, 03:07 PM   #38
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that burns doubleslip stuff is theoretically **** but as you guys can tell the 3" section is more of a PITA than it should be. I think an extra $30 for a v-band instead of the double slip would be more ideal (vband may be the same price ultimately for the next builds I may do, cause there's a lot of fab time in there to get that 3" slip to actually go together, may redos there). And find a damn way to get a 1.5" flex in there somewhere.
Double slips aren't needed downstream of the turbine anyway. They're intended to seal against high pressure. Great for turbo manifolds if you have the real estate (and a fat wallet).
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Old 10-25-2009, 07:04 PM   #39
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Double slips aren't needed downstream of the turbine anyway. They're intended to seal against high pressure. Great for turbo manifolds if you have the real estate (and a fat wallet).
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t40543/
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Old 10-26-2009, 04:01 PM   #40
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I don't think its the angle, that drain sucks.
Another reason not to go ABSURDflow

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Double slips aren't needed downstream of the turbine anyway. They're intended to seal against high pressure. Great for turbo manifolds if you have the real estate (and a fat wallet).
Yeah I guess you are right. I thought it'd be easy, and they look cool. Live and learn.
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