Speaking of oil drains. What size drill and tap did you guys use on my car for the oil pan? I sent your brother a message and he was gonna check with you and your dad. Im puttin in a new engine and need to tap the oil pan again.

We actually didn't drill or tap the oil pan. We just cut the threaded section of an AN fitting and JBWeld'ed it on there. Much simpler. Looks legit. I figured you'd blow the motor up before the turbo anyway.

cuz that's how the pros do it.

http://gallery.y8s.com/d/306-3/DSC00612.jpg

gotta be careful when you tighten it or you'll pull it right off.

I was actually joking. :inout:

better shot:

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...serialNumber=1


I know Brgracer had to do something like you, Hustler, did to get his to work. His turbo was so low that the ends of the fittings were touching each other, there was able 1/8" of visible hose.

I thought so. Cause I remembered asking about if I should JB weld it if it started to leak. Its definitely threaded.

Legit

Attachment 202941

Not legit

http://gallery.y8s.com/d/306-3/DSC00612.jpg

;)

Now only if I had something to hook to it.

You're putting words in my mouth now. I think your mani is the tits. I just think that there is much room for improvement in that return line. He just needs to angle the fitting on the pan differently and then shorten that line by like half.

I just ordered new, shorter fittings. You can rest easy.

the AN fitting is tapped into the oil pan and only uses JB as thread sealant because of the teflon tape no-no... it is track proven legit.

Personally, If I had a choice I would want something like y8s has but made of SS and has a nut on the other side that is then welded to the fitting once tightened down. Then you never have to worry about threads shearing from over tightening and it will never leak because of the JB.

I know, I know. Its perfectly fine if you do it that way with the engine still in the car, but if you go JB weld and the engine is out of the car, shame on you!

Even more legit
http://www.inoneear.com/outtheother/...r4/OilPan1.JPG

I don't see anything wrong with using JBWeld as a thread sealant. That's what I used on my 1.6.

hmm ok. please link me to the source for the aluminum -10 Female version. I have a second 01 oil pan that is already off the car and drilled. :D

The female pan pictured is full of fail IMHO. The purpose of the 37deg angle is to provide a leak free seal. Without it all you have is just another threading. The male version pictured by Tim is the only way to go it you are doing weld on.

If I could redo it I would have done male, but the idea with going female was I wasn't going turbo right away, and wouldn't have a way to cap off the AN fitting otherwise. Unless they make a female AN cap that I have never seen before. It was a good choice since I'm still not turbo and if I ever do it will still be years down the road. Female bung is still win over JB welded ugly mess.

Not sure if you seriously wanted a link or not. I think it was this one in my case, 3/8''NPT

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15252/10002/-1

Considering it was $5 for the bung and only cost me a small tip (guy wouldn't charge me for welding it on) it beats the hell out of doing a JB weld job down the road and having to deal with drilling and tapping on the car.

You mean like these plugs? AN PLUMBING.COM Earls performance products, Hose ends Hose,Adapters, fittings

OK, you win... :facepalm::loser: if I had known they existed I would have gone that route.

These are what I'm using to plug both of my AN bungs right now. (BTW Running NA sucks but we all know that)

I'll weld on an AN bung for you matt for free, just pay for the shipping both ways, or you can give it to me (or pick it up) at the dyno day.

oh my bad, I meant MALE. I already have the female plug cap. looks like they're 5-15 bucks. not bad!