Originally Posted by DemkoG (Post 1214267)

I want to introduce myself I am a long time car builder but have never played with turbos, except for a stock 93 rx7, and this build is going to be my introduction to turbos. Also my first time really doing too much to a 4 cylinder always been a V8 powered guy. I just did not seem right to do that to the sunbeam though.

Welcome!

I have owned a 2001 stock DD and co-owned a 1994 track day car. I enjoyed both of those cars and thought the motor and Trans would be a good fit for my next project, a 1964 sunbeam alpine. Having fallowed the rules for racing I always was envious of the guys that did not have to and made a lot more power. This is how things stand right now, I have a 1999 stock California motor that has 80k miles on it compression is good and is real clean. No a/c or PS. Thinking about keeping all internals stock. (Outside of the exhaust and ecu is the cal Miata any different?) And its matching 5-speed

Don't think its any different :dunno: Cali fuel is the only thing that comes to mind.

I have gone thru a lot of builds and think I have a general Idea of what to do.
With the FI is it worth taking off the head to do any port work? I have done quite a few set of heads mostly LS motors where there is a lot more material that needs to be taken out. The Miata heads look like more of just a cleanup then real port work.
Does not seem like I will need aftermarket rod for my goals but are arp a good idea?

Not much material to really remove, but smoothing it all out has some slight gains. Increasing the valve size +1 intake or +1 or 2 Exhaust helps a lot with turbo builds. Honestly I'd have the head intake/exhaust smoothed out, and focus more on the valve sealing over flow. If you go with upgraded valves (+1/+2) this would still be my go to thing to have the valves seat properly. Not 'tooo' much more flow can be had but slight improvements are noticeable.

Do get ARP EVERYTHING :bigtu:

I know the motor has 9.5 compression ratio, would it be worth it to deshroud the valves for better flow and lower compression? Or to go bigger valves?
The sunbeam is smaller than a Miata and was looking at doing just water injection no IC (I know you leave you self open to failure but I just don’t see any room for a IC.

See above ^^ for valves. Do not worry about flow for valves, just seal. Bigger is better etc.

Stock pistons w/ 9.5 CR, Not sure what a 'safe' boost psi would be honestly. But connecting rods should be on your list, (maybe pistons if you go down to 9.0 CR, plus they'd be stronger than cast)

You will NEEED an IC. Try looking for a used mazdaspeed miata one to start. They're tiny, may just work for T25 & your setup if you can find a spot.

The sunbeam has been sand blasted and is in primer waiting for the engine bay modifications to start.
My power goals are 200hp, and very street able/quick spool up.
T25 sr20 looks to simple and cheep for my goal. It has a integrated waste gate. I am Still open to suggestions. I am going to try to keep it somewhat affordable.

Try to find a BEGi or FM cast manifold & downpipe for the T25 turbo. ARP exhaust studs, TSE inconel kit -- Rock solid hot side ;)

Mega squirt seems to be the preferred engine management on the forum and open to learning a different tuning program (I have hptunner for LS motors and have done 5 motors).

You will do fine with the megasquirt if you have previous tuning ability. These forums have a great support section :bigtu:

Looks like the rx7 injectors.

No, Find at least rx8, Injector Dynamics 725/1000s, GT500 Injectors (Buy some NOW 1 set Left :drool: )

Thinking on keeping stock coils colder plugs.

I may be mistaken but I hear the NB1 coils are actually pretty weak. Upgrading to NB2 should be ok for low boost 8-12psi. Look around here for cold plug suggestions :bigtu:

And custom turbo back exhaust.

:party:

I will take all suggestions thanks for reading threw my first long post. And thanks for your help.

Originally Posted by DemkoG (Post 1214514)

Monk sounds like a very similar build thanks for posting wish their was a bit more how to in it.

Why dose every one say to go with the cast iron exhaust manifold for my build? Are they just tried and true and an easy answer? My concern will always be space that is why I ask.