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Old 05-18-2010, 01:14 AM   #21
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Ooooohhh. Very nice. I have a bone stock '08 Lancer ES. Pretty much exactly the same as an Evo X, except half the power, half the drive wheels, twice the ride height, and 80% of the wheels. Other than that same car really.

Plans for the future include $45 mud flaps to keep the paint on the rear flare from being sandblasted. And possibly new/wider wheels. Other than that it's my econobox.

The X is my realistic dream car, or probably the new ralliart version actually. Although it's quite the cut in fuel mileage. I can barely get 400 miles to a tank with mostly freeway miles, I hear your range is somewhere around 250?
LOL!

You forgot the fenders. You've got 80% of the body, width-wise. My girl Eva is a fat-bottomed girl compared to your ES.

I demanded that I get an Evo GSR with the SSS and Aero packages, the Aero package giving me the super-wide side skirts that catch rocks. The result? No rock chips on the front of that rear fender, not even a need for mudflaps to stop it.

I can get about 300 miles on a tank in strictly highway driving, but normally it's around 250 with the combination I do, so yeah. I sometimes drive like an *** to feed a little bit of my boost addiction, but for the most part I'm conservative.

Jacob I can definitely relate to the feel of throttle steering the exit, that part takes a close second

As for the center caps, those things are a major BEYOTCH to get a hold of... took me like 2 months and I ended up spending $52 a PIECE, yo!

Behind those center caps is a rusty castle nut...
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:16 AM   #22
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:20 AM   #23
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I cannot believe the paint damage that has happened in 60,000 miles. You can see they knew about it, as they've put some kind of painted sticker in front of the rear flare, the front wheels pelt it all day long. I wish I had gotten mud flaps for it much earlier. I didn't because the stock ones would cost $120 for all four corners.

These however, are $45 and look like they'd do a little more protection than the shorty stockers.
http://www.rallyarmor.com/store/lanc...aps-p-249.html
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:33 AM   #24
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I've seen those pictures of your evo all taped up for the ride home before.... you ever been on any Virginia forums by chance? (perhaps while you were in the navy you were stationed in Norfolk..?)
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Old 05-18-2010, 02:03 AM   #25
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I've seen those pictures of your evo all taped up for the ride home before.... you ever been on any Virginia forums by chance? (perhaps while you were in the navy you were stationed in Norfolk..?)
VADRIVEN (aka the old school DRAGVA)... should be a thread called "My first brand new car" or similar. I was in Newport News and Hampton for 4 awful years and had an AWD Infiniti FX35 that I supercharged, blew the motor near Jefferson and Mercury Blvd, got a built motor in with 9.0:1 CR Arias ED pistons, Eagle H-beam rods and valve springs, not to mention ARP hardware. Was going to boost it again but ended up parting out everything for roughly $6,000 and then sold the FX to my brother. It's still rockin the built motor capable of handling upwards of 500whp reliably, but still naturally aspirated

Here's that badboy at Langley (worked out there all the time):

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And somewhere in VA Beach:

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And the motor:

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Old 05-31-2010, 05:36 PM   #26
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How come there's such a huge variation in prices of these Miatas? I've seen '94 NAs go for $6,000+ and '97 NAs go for $4,500. I understand there's a difference in amount of aftermarket parts but those rarely fetch any reasonable return.

At this point I think I will just keep looking until I find the "perfect deal." My intentions would be to start from scratch anyways and I have a whole lot of resources at my fingertips.

Btw, saw a red w/ yellow stripes NA (I believe, didn't get a great look) on a trailer with IL plates SPEC MX5 yesterday near I-90 and Arlington Heights Rd... it was ironic because I was jut telling my buddy who I was driving with about how I wanted to build a Miata instead of getting too involved with the Evo.

We were on our way to take a few new pictures:

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Old 06-02-2010, 12:07 AM   #27
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You'll hate a Miata...run away while you can.
I hear the 240 crowd needs a few good people

Welcome.
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Old 06-02-2010, 12:29 AM   #28
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You'll hate a Miata...run away while you can.
I hear the 240 crowd needs a few good people

Welcome.
That's cause I left the 240 crowd...lol jk





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Welcome dude!! Great looking Evo!
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Old 06-02-2010, 02:03 AM   #29
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Thanks for all the warm welcomes.

I have never seen a 240SX I've liked, unless you're talking 240Z (which was battling the Miata for years as a project car, Miata finally won me over).

The 1972-74 240Z was a gorgeous car...
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Old 06-02-2010, 02:40 AM   #30
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The 1972-74 240Z was a gorgeous car...
WAS? still is........
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Old 06-06-2010, 07:42 PM   #31
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Shoulda kept the wing! It looks good on a EVO! Just one of the few cars that i liked with a factory wing. Also the FC and of course the 944
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Old 06-06-2010, 10:16 PM   #32
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^look up Lancer Evolution X MR Touring

That's the trunk I have...

I'd say it's about 50/50 with people liking the wingless look. I can almost guarantee this car will not have a wing for as long as I own it
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Old 06-07-2010, 05:25 PM   #33
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Done a ton of research already and have only one real question... why, in the typical v-mount I've seen here many times over, is the IC plumbed right behind the radiator? Has anybody tried the IC before radiator and found cooling issues? Is it fitment issues with the ducting?

I'd like to make a project out of the following:

1. '94 to '97
2. Built bottom (and possibly top) end
3. Megasquirt
4. RX7 550cc injectors
5. Walbro 255lph
6. Bottom mount tubular manifold
7. Haven't decided on turbo sizing
8. V-mount with the IC in front of a beefier radiator

Goal: a not very street friendly 300rwhp with as much weight shed as possible, with comfortableness being the ONLY compromise

So step 1 will be getting to 300rwhp reliably, step 2 is addressing the brakes (would love 13" rotors, but will probably settle for 11" or 11.75" since I'd rather not be a pioneer), step 3 is handling, step 4 is track time.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Old 06-07-2010, 05:32 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evo Ecks View Post
Done a ton of research already and have only one real question... why, in the typical v-mount I've seen here many times over, is the IC plumbed right behind the radiator? Has anybody tried the IC before radiator and found cooling issues? Is it fitment issues with the ducting?

I'd like to make a project out of the following:

1. '94 to '97
2. Built bottom (and possibly top) end
3. Megasquirt
4. RX7 550cc injectors
5. Walbro 255lph
6. Bottom mount tubular manifold
7. Haven't decided on turbo sizing
8. V-mount with the IC in front of a beefier radiator

Goal: a not very street friendly 300rwhp with as much weight shed as possible, with comfortableness being the ONLY compromise

So step 1 will be getting to 300rwhp reliably, step 2 is addressing the brakes (would love 13" rotors, but will probably settle for 11" or 11.75" since I'd rather not be a pioneer), step 3 is handling, step 4 is track time.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Huh? A v-mount is a V... what you describe is just a typical install of an intercooler in front of the radiator.

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Old 06-07-2010, 05:32 PM   #35
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as far as brakes go you can get NB sport brakes, they are 10.5" and will stop your car like a mother ******. and you can buy everything for around $350 bucks our cheaper. then if your not satisfied you can sell the fronts of the NB brakes for about a $150 and pick up the kit that trackspeed (savingtion) offers or spend a **** load of money on brembos...
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Old 06-07-2010, 05:35 PM   #36
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Dammit, this makes me want to do a v-mount setup now!
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Old 06-07-2010, 05:43 PM   #37
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Huh? A v-mount is a V... what you describe is just a typical install of an intercooler in front of the radiator.
No, I'm sorry maybe my wording was confusing...



Placing the intercooler in "typical" FMIC location with an angled radiator, with a big *** gaping hole in the hood, Evo VIII style



I understand the air in the V-mounts I've seen here are split between going up (for the IC) and down (for the radiator) but I'm talking about routing all air through the IC and then radiator, through the same ducting. I can only see one problem, being out of control coolant temps, but I can think of ways around that.

I guess you can say I'm thinking of changing the angle of the V so the point faces towards the hood latch instead of the oil pan :P
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Old 06-07-2010, 05:45 PM   #38
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as far as brakes go you can get NB sport brakes, they are 10.5" and will stop your car like a mother ******. and you can buy everything for around $350 bucks our cheaper. then if your not satisfied you can sell the fronts of the NB brakes for about a $150 and pick up the kit that trackspeed (savingtion) offers or spend a **** load of money on brembos...
Thanks I'll look into that. Somehow missed that option for the NA's...
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:20 PM   #39
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You're not going to want something like 13" brakes as you are adding a ton of unsprung rotating mass you don't need. Miata's are light little cars and don't need monster brakes to slow them down.

Suspension / transmission / rear end are missing from your list and pretty big items. We just had a guy blow up a 5-speed in his msm at a mere 250whp, and those threads are pretty common. I hate my 6, but they can be livable. Rear end should be ok at 300whp, but get an LSD, and maybe the MSM unit which has beefier axles.

Suspension will be what makes or brakes this car, not the power, so I'd do a lot of looking into that and see what you like.

Also, External Waste gate setup would be a pretty good idea since your shooting up at the higher power goals of most people. And you'll likely want more, as is always the case.
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:28 PM   #40
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You're not going to want something like 13" brakes as you are adding a ton of unsprung rotating mass you don't need. Miata's are light little cars and don't need monster brakes to slow them down.

Suspension / transmission / rear end are missing from your list and pretty big items. We just had a guy blow up a 5-speed in his msm at a mere 250whp, and those threads are pretty common. I hate my 6, but they can be livable. Rear end should be ok at 300whp, but get an LSD, and maybe the MSM unit which has beefier axles.

Suspension will be what makes or brakes this car, not the power, so I'd do a lot of looking into that and see what you like.

Also, External Waste gate setup would be a pretty good idea since your shooting up at the higher power goals of most people. And you'll likely want more, as is always the case.
MSM's came with a 5-speed?

5-speeds are good till about 275hp range, then stuff starts to fall apart. and so far the 6-speeds have proved themselves to be stronger than the 5-speeds.

a Torsen should be good in the 300+hp range. if you go with a 6-speed id try to get a 3.9 torsen or get some 3.63 gears to put into a torsen. you dont have to. but it makes first gear more user friendly.
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