Fix the car for the boys in green...
 

Hello for SW of Irelnad.... the title of the tread refers this
Anyhow, I recently learned to read forum FAQs, so here is my intro.

Name is Kon and I am a proud owner of a 1990 Eunos Roadster for the last 2-3 years. The car was imported into Ireland in 1997. I suspect it has been "restores" by the previous owner to some degree (read: there are a fair few obscure bolts missing from various deep recesses of the car). When I bought the car it came with a set of lowering springs, adjustable KONI yellows on the front and rear and a leaky sump, poorly patched with JB Weld.

Here it is:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9t...=w1024-h685-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Nj...=w1212-h685-no

It has remained unmodified for quite some time... And it has done two track days in this trim:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_T...=w1212-h685-no

Videos of laps can be found here if you are curious what slow looks like!
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDu...XforCoTt9uHSCw

Sometime during the spring I drove a boosted MX5... and MOTHER OF GOD....SO MUCH WANT. In fact so much want that I bought a 1997 1.4 Honda Civic as a daily and parked the MX5 in the garage to begin work.

Progress has been slow enough, but my plan is not overly ambitious. Im just going to copy everyone else...

So far I have installed MS2 V3.0 and a PLX gen 4 wideband. Other mods include 1.8 rear brakes and other cosmetic bits and pieces.

This is the state of the car now:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nt...s=w914-h685-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H_...g=w914-h685-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1u...Q=w914-h685-no

So as of last month the car runs with the MS2 using the base map from DIYAutotune. It runs ".......well" I think. Hopefully, I'll get more parts and this build can progress.

There are loads more photos of bits and pieces I've done over the last while here: Retro's Roadster

Cheers

RTRO

Welcome to the forum. We've a couple other Irish gents lurking about on the forum.

You weren't required to have a rollbar for track days?

Many thanks for the welcome.

The track day rules here are relatively lax. Roll bars are not a requirement at the moment and I don't think noise is restricted much either as it is in the UK. However, I will install one. Hopefully sooner rather than later.

Cheers

I've heard similar about AUS. When you don't have such a sue happy culture safety is up to the driver more often than not.

Indeed, it is. The track, for obvious reasons, state that they are not liable for any damage/injury. Road insurance is also invalid on the track, so if you wreck, you bear the cost. Most realise this; hence, manners on the track are very good. I've only done the "open track day" type events. This means that its open to ANY type of car. Often, these events are used by the Irish touring and time attack guys to shake down their cars, so you have complete noobs, like yours truly, on the track together with pros. The pros are often the most gentlemanly, they give you a wide breath and never push you in corner entry/exits.

Do you plan on putting stock taillights back in?

Wood double din blank. Best!`

Yes, eventually. But these are heaps better than the hectic chromies that the car came with.

It's actually a laminated floor board. :D

BE careful if it's made in China. There's been reports if excessive formaldehyde content

https://www.epa.gov/formaldehyde/que...inate-flooring

Ha, thanks! Luckily this particular piece was made in Germany and seems to conform with all the EU standards! Anyhow, I'll will also replace it with something else at some stage.

I have previously made a fibreglass panel, but it was too flimsy to hold my phone.

Hack of the week!

Since I removed the AFM and replaced it with an IAT sensor, the sensor was simply "placed" inside the intake. As ill be running the car with no boost for a while, I wasn't happy with a loose, dangly sensor. So to anchor it, I used stuff I already had...

The GM IAT fits well inside an old Miata rubber bumpstop (cut in half):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DX...o=w914-h685-no

So I drilled an 10 mm hole in the rubber intake tube...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VY...0=w914-h685-no

Trimmed the bumpstop to make pretty:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QH...Q=w914-h685-no

Test fit:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CT...s=w914-h685-no

Then siliconed the bumpstop to the intake:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9B...M=w914-h685-no

Final IAT location is under the intake, just in front of the PS pump:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C7...c=w914-h685-no

Will obviously have to do it properly once turboed....

pics dont work

Thanks, fixed now, I think...

High RPM sync loss (#38)
 

Not sure how to go about solving this sync loss issue which consistently occurs at 6100 RPM. Reason #38 (#38 = 4G63).
Logs show a missing CKP signal...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rK...A=w640-h400-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zj...Q=w640-h400-no

Common enough issue it seems, but I'm getting lost in how to go about it...
Noise filtering doesn't seem to work...
Could the battery voltage be an issue? It reads 14.4 at the battery... 12.9-13.1 in TS

MSQ and MSL attached if anyone has time to take a peek...

There are 2 trimpots on the board - Have you fiddled with them?

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...d-wires-91049/ - Follow Braineack's adjustment and see if that resolves it.
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vradjust.htm

I haven't messed with those since setting them at the very beginning of the install. I'll have a go at adjusting the hysteresis!

Thanks for the tip, will report back once done!

High RPM sync loss SOLVED!
 

Initially, I followed gooflophaze's advice, adjusted the R56 and R52 as recommended. That did nothing, unfortunately. In the end, I had to disassemble the second tach input circuit and build a slightly different one, described in MS2/Extra manual. See below:

5.2.14.4 Adding a cam sensor input - ground switching
This option uses the spare opto-isolator on the mainboard for the cam input, with the sensor in ground-switching
mode. This will usually give more reliable operation, but it does not match the polarity inversion of the
VR/universal tach input - this is not a problem in "Toothed wheel" mode.

a) The OptoIn pad should be connected to 5V in the proto area.
b) Connect OptoOut to JS10 (ensuring that nothing else is connected.)
c) Jumper XG1 to a spare pin on the main DB37 connector (e.g. SPR3) - this is your cam input.
d) Check that R12 is a 390R to 470R resistor, replace if not.
g) Ensure that C30 is not fitted.
h) Fit or jumper D1 and D2

Reinstalled the ECU and adjusted R56 so that the voltage reading on "top" terminal of R54 read 2.5V.
Then, in TS inverted the CAM input.

Started right up. Tested this morning, revs up to 7200, no bother! Have to test on the road in the next few days!