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Old 04-15-2014, 05:13 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Nothing insulated yet, haven't had time, anything specific you'd focus on??
Protect the brake lines, brake fluid reservoir, heater coolant lines.

Keith
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Old 04-16-2014, 01:19 PM   #22
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You are going to need much more space around that downpipe for side to side engine movement or you are going to have big trouble. And a little more front to back space as well.

The brake reservoir will melt.
Any nearby brake lines will have the fluid boil when the turbine housing and downpipe glow red and your brakes will fail. 260 degrees F will be about all it will take on old brake fluid and around 400 on brand new stock type fluid.

Unprotected, the rubber heater hoses will fail and the throttle and speedo cables will melt, which can also be exciting.
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Old 04-22-2014, 01:54 PM   #23
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Had some time and made up a heat shield, should work quite well, justneed to clean and paint!
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Old 04-23-2014, 09:18 AM   #24
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At a minimum, loosely wrap some aluminum foil or aluminum foil tape around that left front metal brake line going between the turbo and the frame rail to create a heat barrier. It may save your life one day.
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Old 04-23-2014, 02:03 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxkite24 View Post
Had some time and made up a heat shield, should work quite well, justneed to clean and paint!
Looks OK for the brake system components, but your heater lines are going to get baked.

Keith
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Old 04-23-2014, 02:36 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter
...loosely wrap some aluminum foil or aluminum foil tape around that left front metal brake line going between the turbo and the frame rail...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Twodoor View Post
...your heater lines are going to get baked.


circled areas of concern

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Old 04-23-2014, 06:37 PM   #27
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Coolant will burn when the heater hose ruptures and it spills on the red hot exhaust. Yes, glycol is flammable.
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:50 AM   #28
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Update:
Figured out misfire!!!!!
Had a clogged injector, so tracked down another 460,
Runs great now.
Valvecover just got back from powdercoat.
Its idling great, but a little lean.
Full 2.5 inch exhaust is complete, with muffler, sounds really good!
So now im just waiting for my funds to let me get it tuned.
Or until I get ballsy enough to attempt autotune.
How risky is it??
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:55 AM   #29
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Load the base map from here:

MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com

Enter in your req_fuel for your injectors, and don't touch the spark map. It's very conservative, but it'll be safe for auto tuning. Have TS generate a target table, and go autotune.

Once that's finished, schedule some dyno time to maximize power by tuning the spark table.
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Old 05-26-2014, 12:08 PM   #30
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How do you generate a target table??
I've looked around and dont see it, tried searching...
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Old 05-26-2014, 12:42 PM   #31
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If you want to ease into autotuning, you can use the VE Analyze function in MegaLog Viewer. Basically open up the run in MegaLog Viewer while sitting in the comfort of your desk and watch VEA do its thing. Look at the results, save the new tune, burn it into the MS. Repeat.

Autotuning is actually the above without the added steps of recording a log file and doing the stuff on the computer. It's VE Analyze Live (VEAL).

Important part is making sure your WBO2 is accurate and your spark map is conservative. Definitely DON'T go to a dyno for fuel tuning. Won't be nearly as good.

Generating a target table is a dialog in your VE Table in TunerStudio. So, Basic Settings==>VE Table 1 (or whichever you're working on)==>Tools==>VE Specific==>Generate Table. There may be differences based upon which version of TunerStudio you have and which MS you're using . . . but it will be there somewhere, just look.
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Old 05-26-2014, 12:45 PM   #32
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I figured it out!!
Made a few laps around the neighborhood before a belt wore a whole in turbo coolant line, then I got a nice old man to tow me back to the house.
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Old 05-26-2014, 12:47 PM   #33
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Ha, nice first drive.

If you didn't figure out generating a target table, open your target table, click file, then click "generate table".

I haven't tried this method, but I think it's a new feature, so it should work for your purposes.
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Old 05-30-2014, 01:10 AM   #34
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Drove around town some!
Tons of fun even with my crappy tune on it.
Afr is much richer then I am right now...
Like hovering around 10.
Anyways I'm tired of fouling out plugs, so it wont be driven a whole lot until legotimate tune.
I'm trying to decide on a hood vent setup to run, but I'm not sire yet!
Anyways, made up a pretty cool shifter and ebrake today!
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Old 06-23-2014, 04:56 PM   #35
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alright, getting much much closer!
Had some help, and got the fuel tables pretty close. drives really well, except for sputtering around 4000 rpms.

Oh, and have heat shields all figured out!
will post pictures later
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:35 PM   #36
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Sputtering around 4000 rpms could be your ignition, not anything to do with the tune.

What's your dwell and gap set at, and when's the last time you replaced your wires and plugs?
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Old 07-02-2014, 02:17 AM   #37
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replaced plugs and wires, plugs set at .04.
still doing it.
new alternator, full battery charge ( i work at a parts store )
i need to just make a cop harness. I already have the cops, just need harness!
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:22 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxkite24 View Post
replaced plugs and wires, plugs set at .04.
still doing it.
new alternator, full battery charge ( i work at a parts store )
i need to just make a cop harness. I already have the cops, just need harness!
Plugs should be set to .028.
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Old 08-07-2014, 11:23 AM   #39
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Update time!
Installed cops, fixed the before mentioned problem, tuned more with some help.
Then 2 autocrosses! Car drives great, is an absolute blast to drive, and putting down impressive times!
Thennnnnn the turbo blew...
Thats where I'm at now, already checked compression on all cylinders and they were all very close to 180, so good to go there, these turbos are a little bit famous for blowing so I'm not too surprised. but now I just have to figure out what I want to put in & how to modify everything to make that work... any dead giveaways it is a blown turbo and not valve seals??
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Old 08-07-2014, 02:30 PM   #40
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Oil in the outlet of the turbine but not in the inlet.
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