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Been on here for a while for some random bits of info here and there but just now posting. I'm in my late 30's and have been a certified master mechanic for 20 years now and currently teach automotive for a votec college while running a one man fabrication and repair shop on the side. Located on the west cost of Florida. I have messed with Miatas in the past for other people but decided to make one my current project about 2 years ago when I got a call offering one for almost nothing. It had potential but needed lots of time and attention. Luckily the price was worth it. It got torn down to a bare shell and has received a full nut and bolt restoration over the last 2 years. Bulk of the aftermarket stuff was built by me with the intent to potentially offer later on. The motors internals were originally left alone but completely resealed including head gasket. I have since decided to turbo it to get rid of some stash parts and clear up some shelf space. So the motor is current receiving new bearings, rings, arp studs, valve guides, lifter rebuild, cylinder hone and a bigger clutch to prep it for a t25. About to drop it back in and start on intercooler fabrication.
This thing looks FANTASTIC. I was just looking through your other thread, great work, 10/10.
I highly recommend that you add some forged rods (ebay rods are fine) to your motor refresh list (search "rods only rebuild"). Stock pistons are fine for 350+WHP (with good fuel/tuning) but the rods banana at about 250wtq. I absolutely wouldn't skip on this if you have the motor down far enough to do bearings/rings. Also add a new OEM oil pump to that list. That's basically what I have in my motor build (ARP everything as well, like you said) and it has held 300+whp for years, 25k+ miles, and 30+ trackdays (and going strong!).
This thing looks FANTASTIC. I was just looking through your other thread, great work, 10/10.
I highly recommend that you add some forged rods (ebay rods are fine) to your motor refresh list (search "rods only rebuild"). Stock pistons are fine for 350+WHP (with good fuel/tuning) but the rods banana at about 250wtq. I absolutely wouldn't skip on this if you have the motor down far enough to do bearings/rings. Also add a new OEM oil pump to that list. That's basically what I have in my motor build (ARP everything as well, like you said) and it has held 300+whp for years, 25k+ miles, and 30+ trackdays (and going strong!).