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When you do the 1.8 swap, you'll be swapping over or wiring up your outputs, which are injectors, coils, and idle valve, and you'll swap over or wire all your sensors, including coolant temp, air temp, and TPS. None of our cars come with a wideband oxygen sensor, so you'll have to add that for any standalone ECU. You also need a load sensor, which from the factory is the AFM on the 1.6, or MAF on the 1.8s, you'll get rid of this and use the MAP sensor which is usually a vacuum port on the ECU, by running a vacuum line from the intake manifold to the ECU. When you do this you also get rid of the air temp sensor in the AFM, so most people buy a GM air temp sensor and install it in the intake pipe or intercooler if turbocharged.
Also your TPS isn't a variable TPS like all the 1.8s, it's just a switch, so google all the VTPS kits available from FM and other sources to adapt a VTPS to your throttle body. You also only have batch injection, where the ECU fires injectors 1&3 and 2&4 at the same time. Sequential injection is preferred, which involves opening up the injector harness, cutting two wires out of the splices, and extending them to the ECU.
On any 1.8 swap, stock or standalone ECU, the 4 CAS wires need to be extended from the intake to exhaust side of the valve cover, the coils don't bolt up, and the throttle body doesn't bolt up. Solve the coil issue by using aftermarket COPs, 1.8 coils, or FM's coil bracket. Solve the throttle body issue by using the 1.8 throttle body, which magically gives you the VTPS you need as well. FM has an adapter to bolt the 1.6 throttle body on the 1.8 engine, but it spaces it forward ~1", plus the 1.8 motor sits ~1" further forward than the 1.6, making for difficult intake installations, so I don't recommend it. The '94-'97 throttle body has a ~1" hose barb where it grabs air for the idle valve, which you need to plumb into any intake/intercooler setup. I prefer the NB throttle body, which grabs air pre throttle plate and meters it to post throttle plate, all internally, making intake/intercooler setups much cleaner. Find a used throttle body online with wiring pigtails, cut them off a junk yard car, or there's a couple sites online offering Miata wiring pigtails. https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/static.php/post/miata
NA8 throttle body:
NB throttle body:
Hint: press the multi quote button on every post you want to quote except the last, then press the quote button. Voila! multiple quotes in one post.
Originally Posted by sixshooter
That's the smartest route you could choose. There were many other refinements we haven't even discussed yet.
Sorry for the delay. I've been traveling for work and in the middle of moving to a little hobby farm.
Well, I might just be impulsive and swallow the "free-revving pros" of the 1.6. The 1.8's out here are pretty worse for wear and over-priced. Having a $300 1.6 engine I can build on to then drop in the car sounds like a good experience. Which really
is part of the reason to do this.
Kraken is looking like the best bet. I've attached the cart i'm currently looking at. There is a guy selling a full Magnaflow 3 inch for a 1.6 locally. It's new and he wants $900 Canadian. The Kraken exhaust option with a cat is around $800 USD. And I can't find a video hearing what it sounds like. So i'm on the fence with that.
From my understanding all I would need on top of that is: ECU and Wideband O2? Anything I'm missing?
I'm going to build the MSP3 Kit following the amazing Turbokitty write up.
If it were me, I’d buy a prebuilt ecu, and put the $232 for injectors towards some ID1050xs. Known good dead time data and small pulse widths is a huge benefit when first tuning a car.
If it were me, I’d buy a prebuilt ecu, and put the $232 for injectors towards some ID1050xs. Known good dead time data and small pulse widths is a huge benefit when first tuning a car.
I saw this thread talking about the 700cc Bosch's. Seems like they've figured it out. That's a big jump in price from $232 to ~$600. Think it's worth it? Is there something else that is more middle of the road? I'm not chasing power really.
If "they" have "figured it out", then go for it. I can get ID1050xs for much cheaper through work vendors, so my opinion is probably biased. IDs seem to be an industry standard though, with the only benefit of any other injector being price. IMO, a built engine isn't worth the $360 savings, but that's worse case scenario.
If "they" have "figured it out", then go for it. I can get ID1050xs for much cheaper through work vendors, so my opinion is probably biased. IDs seem to be an industry standard though, with the only benefit of any other injector being price. IMO, a built engine isn't worth the $360 savings, but that's worse case scenario.
Thanks Curly, I appreciate your suggestion. I sent you a message.
I tried to get his info but he's not messaging. I can't add the listing to this forum for some reason. If you search 1.6 Miata Engine in Nanaimo on FB Marketplace you'll see it.
Last edited by Cowwalk; Dec 15, 2024 at 06:48 PM.
Reason: Link didn't work
Alright gents, I might be buying an already turbo'd Miata. What should I look out for? It's at 14psi and has been turbo'd for 6-10 000 km's.
Here is what it has: Megasquirt pnp3 Flowforce 640cc injectors Bosch Audi R8 COP conversion FlowForce COP mounting bracket Garrett gt2560r turbo with polished compressor housing Kraken top mount turbo manifold Kraken 3" turbo back exhaust Flyin' Miata cold air box and intake Flyin' Miata intercooler and hoses Flyin' Miata crossflow radiator Mishimoto dual rad fans Flyin' Miata coolant reroute kit Flyin' Miata timing belt+water pump kit done recently Turbosmart Blow off valve Electronic boost control with on the fly boost switching with a switch in the dash Mazda 323 GTX turbo PCV GM IAT Deustchwerks 200 fuel pump LRB aluminum cooling panel IL Motorsport polished aluminum coolant overflow tank
Thanks, here are some more. But I potentially have a major problem. I'm not sure if you guys follow the Miata ECU tuning Facebook group. But some people are saying the tune on the car is awful. It feels good (aside from a slight stutter at idle if you slowly go onto it). I posted the information in the ECU tune page of this forum to get some more opinions. But long and short of it: I'm being told the tuner who tuned the car may have botched it and it needs a complete retune. Being quoted $1000 flat rate for remote tune.
I'm nervous and unsure how to proceed. The previous owner is an absolute legend and has been very supportive of helping if this is a problem. I'd love to get some more advice on this from others. In parallel, i'm reading and watching videos to get up to speed on the fundamentals.
In the meantime I'll do a leakdown test and compression test as I'm being told there could be damage to the engine if it ran that tune.
Paging @redursidae . He's an excellent MS tuner and I'd recommend him.
Sweet car you got there. The tune being off is relatively minor if everything is in order (and you haven't detonated it apart yet). But definitely get that tune looked at and fixed before you beat on it.
Paging @redursidae . He's an excellent MS tuner and I'd recommend him.
Sweet car you got there. The tune being off is relatively minor if everything is in order (and you haven't detonated it apart yet). But definitely get that tune looked at and fixed before you beat on it.
Thanks for the reco Fire and for the comment on the car. I'm very much looking forward to making it a bit more low and buttoned up.
A lot of those facebook remote tuners can charge a lot because a lot of people use them, but don't take long term engine damages into consideration. Attach the tune here, and a few of us can take a look. I tune cars that race 8+ hours at a time, not ~20 second "mexico" freeway pulls. Big difference in engine stress.
A lot of those facebook remote tuners can charge a lot because a lot of people use them, but don't take long term engine damages into consideration. Attach the tune here, and a few of us can take a look. I tune cars that race 8+ hours at a time, not ~20 second "mexico" freeway pulls. Big difference in engine stress.
That would mean a lot to me. I'd be happy to pay someone here. I didn't like how aggresive the people in the FB page had been about selling their services.
I've attached the tune along with a few pull logs.
plugs
Last edited by Cowwalk; Dec 20, 2024 at 10:55 PM.
Reason: Added image of plugs
Holy **** ***** yes you're going to melt some ****. Way too advanced. 37.5 degrees at 100kpa WOT, I usually run 28. I'm usually close to 10 by 230kpa, you're at 15ish. 50s in cruise is insane. Never seen that before. No timing retard until you're above 140 degrees air intake temps. No timing retard for high coolant temps. AFRs don't dip into the 11s until above 11psi (11.9 in my book is still 12s). Hard pass. Will it blow up tomorrow? Probably not. But I wouldn't run that car in anything but cold *** ambient temps with high octane fuel.
Also your log is near useless, at least for my quick glance. You only hit 3.77psi of boost, barely any throttle, highest RPM was 4500. I get it if you're unsure on the tune, you should be after looking at it. Best logs for me are full throttle in the highest gear possible, from 1500rpm until it hits the limiter. If I do a quick VE analyze, it's adding fuel pretty much everywhere, even with your lean targets.
Originally Posted by Cowwalk
That would mean a lot to me. I'd be happy to pay someone here. I didn't like how aggresive the people in the FB page had been about selling their services.
I've attached the tune along with a few pull logs. plugs
whole heartily agree. Facebook groups are a great place to make money with remote tunes, but even if I'm on Facebook constantly, which I try not to be, I feel like there's 20 replies with emails and offers by the time I look. I've given up that avenue.
As for the plugs, I'm not a big expert in plug reading, maybe others can chime in. But what's with the damage at the bottom of the threads on the 1st plug?
Holy **** ***** yes you're going to melt some ****. Way too advanced. 37.5 degrees at 100kpa WOT, I usually run 28. I'm usually close to 10 by 230kpa, you're at 15ish. 50s in cruise is insane. Never seen that before. No timing retard until you're above 140 degrees air intake temps. No timing retard for high coolant temps. AFRs don't dip into the 11s until above 11psi (11.9 in my book is still 12s). Hard pass. Will it blow up tomorrow? Probably not. But I wouldn't run that car in anything but cold *** ambient temps with high octane fuel.
Originally Posted by curly
Also your log is near useless, at least for my quick glance. You only hit 3.77psi of boost, barely any throttle, highest RPM was 4500. I get it if you're unsure on the tune, you should be after looking at it. Best logs for me are full throttle in the highest gear possible, from 1500rpm until it hits the limiter. If I do a quick VE analyze, it's adding fuel pretty much everywhere, even with your lean targets.
You're scaring me Curly lol. Yea, I was too nervous to give her with the tune seeming pretty lean when reading the AF gauge. Looks like anti sieze on the plug.
No, I can never coordinate it and I hate talking on the phone. I need 5-10 seconds to coordinate my thoughts lol. I'll PM you my email.
WTF you have 23 posts, why can't I PM you. Is the limit 25? GRRR...
I'll make some changes to your tune for you to try. But for now do the leak down/comp test you mentioned, change oil, make sure you use high octane fuel, and double check timing sync.
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The body seems to be in good shape.
