MrYoungblood

I've read on other threads that a turbo'd 5spd is basically "consumable" and not worth it. 6spd's are kinda rare atm. Will a 5spd handle a turbo if it's not raced heavily or should I just wait out for a 6spd?
And I considered maybe doing a 5/6 swap but the tranny's are around 800. So if a 5 isn't worth it, then if rather just buy the 6spd originally.

Also, is there any discernable way to tell a torsen from a tf from the outside?

borka

iTrader: (1)

My 5 speed is holding up just fine. i run 280-300hp street, 230-250hp track and autox use. so i lower boost for track abuse.
But i do have mechanical empathy, so i dont rail through the gear, nor do clutch drops, or other stupid nonsense.

But a 6 speed is stronger, yes.

Ideally is best to just buy a car with a 6 speed from factory if buying an NB1-2. since it will also have a 3.9 Torsen (99-02)
Otherwise if you swap a 6 speed into a 5 speed car, you will have ridiculous short gears with a 4.3 rear end. so its not a 800 transmission swap, but another $800 for a 3.9 torsen as well.

At this point you might as well buy a nb1 or nb2 (99-02) with a 6 speed from factory.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

lol borka selling everything to everyone all the time

like mt.net ebay

you know what you should do? make a "n00b welcome package" where you sell every new member the parts they'll eventually need for their car

borka

iTrader: (1)

lol, i dont really have much stuff left to sell any more, almost all of it is already gone.

my bad, i will keep all for sale stuff in the classifieds section..

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Wai tho?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Or you can buy the 94-97 car that weighs less, has the ability to make just as much power on stock rods, has the better shifting transmission, has the indestructible rear end in 4.1 ratio, and has fun pop-up headlights that were only dropped to pass pedestrian impact regulations.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

borka

iTrader: (1)

VS nb1
better headlights
better looking bumper
chassis under bracing (does make a noticeable difference, and I've had both nb1 and nb2, and nb2 glides on the road much smoother due to stiffer chassis).
better feeling steering, i dont know why but my 02 nb2 has slightly heavier steering wheel with more road feel than my ex nb1
optional sport brakes
better seats
nicer looking door cards
white gauges

vs 03-05 nb2
has Torsen. not fuji

Savington

iTrader: (31)

01-02 has VVT, lots of Special Edition/Sport cars produced with 6sp+sport brakes (desirable), plus no bullshit weak T-F diffs

In order from most desirable (aside from 01-02) to least desirable, and why they are less desirable than 01-02 cars:
03-05 has weaker differential
99-00 has a worse interior, worse headlights, no VVT, 6-speeds are rarer
94-97 has a worse head, no optional 6sp, no optional sport brakes, lack of NB front suspension geometry, no glass window softtop
90-93 is the Pol Pot of Miatas

MrYoungblood

So I've been doing a fair amount of research to price my project. Props to MKTurbo on here for that kit. I also looked at FMII and used both of those to gauge what all I need. I looked at the DiY forum as well to see what kind of internal upgrades need to be done also.

1- it seems like a lower A/R is the way to go. More power sooner with less torque until higher rpms. Maybe around .6? Thoughts?
2- it also seems like you can't grab any old turbo and throw it on, you have to pair it with a manifold unless you want to do some crazy fabricating, which I don't. I've seen alot of people talk about the gt2550 but I can't find them new or used at the moment. So possibly 2650r, or is that more of like a stage 2 kind of thing and i should start lower. Any turbo/manifold recommendations? Looking to top out for now 250-275 max.
3- the sintered gears in the oil pump..i believe I read above 300-320hp, or maybe it was 250wtq, they could **** everything up. With a smaller A/R and mid 200hp goal, should I be worried about it now or go ahead and get the upgrade? Also I know, don't get billet.
4- I read all you really need is proper injectors and MS3PRO can handle the pressure without any additional fueling components. Yet I saw the stock fuel rails are good up to about 85psi, and I honestly don't know what kind of fuel pressure I'll be making. I know there's equations but I need the parts and pieces to do all that first. Is going above that common or is that something I should look into as well.

That's all I can remember for now, more to come if I think of anything.

Also, does anyone run water injection or is like more of like, an eat/sleep/breathe boost life thing.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

lol where did you read the thing about stock fuel rail? I want to go delete the thread

MrYoungblood

Honestly no idea.. I've been on this info hunt for hours..

Found it, and it was my mistake, it was the fuel pump, not the rail. Regardless, same question..is getting above that pressure a reality for this size of a setup?

HmoobDude

You've got your turbo #'s mixed up. I'm pretty sure you mean GT2554 (not GT2550), probably why you can't find any new or used. Also it's GT2560R (not GT2650R).

18psi

iTrader: (76)

on pump gas, and 2554 or 2560, assuming the pump is healthy, it will be fine, and the rail will forever be fine.

borka

iTrader: (1)

You are overthinking this.

for mid 250hp car you need a gt2560r
over 280hp you want efr6258

here is what you need turbo kit wise.

Gt2560r with either FM or Kraken manifold and downpipe
efr6258 with either trackspeed kit or kraken manifold and downpipe.

ms3
flowforce 640cc injectors for pump gas or id1050x for e85

dont worry about fuel pressures or ar values. Pick any of the above fine setups and enjoy.

plenty of brand new gt2560r turbos for sale around $800-950.

a point to consider is efr6258 is $1254. So for $300 more you have the best turbo on the market.

MrYoungblood

To everyone I guess, that makes more sense why I couldn't find anything.

Borka, I also had a larger exhaust in mind to help it breathe. New clutch kit, wideband o2, and a list of other apparently not so important as of now things.
So for this amount of power I can literally just throw on a turbo kit, injectors, and MS and won't have problems? I was trying to think of things like cooling system upgrades, connecting rods, COP, crank pulley damper, etc. I thought at first I could just throw what you discussed in and it should work. But the more I read the more I realized I need to make sure everything is working properly and efficiently. That's why I was so enveloped in it.

If that's all I need to go fast at first then HELL YEAH BROTHER!

SamM_UK

From where, I can only find that price without the hotside housing.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I love the enthusiasm in here.
I hate the naïve-ness in here.

Don't make any silly spontaneous decision yet kid, you still have a long way to go. These are some of the easiest cars out there to turbocharge. But if it was so easy and simple then you wouldn't see hundreds of botched and destroyed cars.

borka

iTrader: (1)

If you want to start off with a 180-200hp street car, that is all you really need.
turbo kit of your choice from my above list. even efr can make as low as 200hp with the low boost solenoid.

so for 200hp:
2560r or EFR6258 turbo, manifold, downpipe, wideband, injectors (flow force or Injector dynamics) and ms3. stock clutch should hold to about 200hp.

200-250hp. stronger clutch ( i recommend FM level1), and 3" exhaust

250-300hp stronger rods, better cooling.

300+hp. forged pistons, BE oil pump, ATI damper, ARP studs, 6 speed transmission 3.9 or 3.6 rear end

brakes, suspension, wheels, tires etc... thats a whole separate discussion.

borka

iTrader: (1)

This is where i bought mine
here is who i spoke to:

Industrial injection
800-955-0476
Ask for Gavin

Tell him its Miata Turbo special price.

Should be $1254 for a T25 EFR6258 complete turbo and free USA shipping.