New to the Page and need advice
 

Hey my name trevor I'm new to the page. I've read a lot about brainiacs and underdogs t3 50 Trim build. I decided to order one my self last night and noticed right after that I got the wrong one because it didn't have an internal waste gate and didn't have the vband outlet. Other then that I believe it's the same turbo. The compressor wheel inducer is 42.50 mm and exducer 60mm and the turbine wheel inducer is 64 mm and exducer 46mm. Here is the link to the turbo Universal T3 TURBO CHARGER 45 trim STAGE III HONDA ACURA VOLVO AUDI JETTA GOlF | eBay

so for those of you that know about the turbo I'm talking about, is it the same turbo minus the waste gate and vband? If it is I will just go for a external waste gate setup. The same one underdog did.

and yes I know I am a noob.

This is the wastegate/v band adapter (probably). T3 T3/T4 5 Bolt Turbo Downpipe Flange To 2.5" V-Band Conversion Adaptor Kit Set | eBay

You clearly have not followed the basic miataturbo.net advice of READ BEFORE YOU BUY.
Do not buy ANYTHING until you've read for 6 months more than you think you'd need to.
Let everybody here yell at you and tell you the right things to do and LISTEN.
DON'T BUY
READ

Yeah Unfortunately that won't work because it's for a turbo with a 5 bolt housing the turbo I bought has a 4 bolt housing. Thanks though

The turbo you got is going to make your first turbo experience really hard.

Okay but why if i get a v-band adapter and go with an external waste gate I should be fine right? I guess I could return the turbo but it doesn't look like the one with the internal wastegate is even for sale right now.

Please don't create any more threads. just this one is enough, we don't want to destroy any more brain cells.

I deleted the othetr identical one is DIY discussion

adding an external gate is a lot less DIY friendly. adapters suck. return it, wait for a better turbo. a 2554 or 2560 is my advice.

Or just buy an MK turbo kit and be done.

the Borg EFR 6258 would be a a great choice as well

Also I will probably be getting rid of my turbo setup this winter to put in a 1.8 if you waited.

The rear v-band housing does not bolt onto that turbo correctly. Only 1 of the holes line up on the housing that comes on it and the v-band adapter piece. I don't think it is possible to redress to make it fit correctly.

Well thanks for all of the advice and suggestions. My turbo and taco taco manifold arrive at my house today but I'll probably be sending them right back. Just one last question and then I'll put this subject to rest. What if I ditched the vband adapter idea and just had a downpipe made with a 4 bolt flange that would bolt right up to the turbo and then attempted the same external wastegate setup underdog did? I understand it may be harder then I think but I'm willing to take a risk with the 120$ manifold. I'm confident I can do it but if I mess up oh well. Here is a link to the external wastgate setup I want to do but I'm sure you guys have already seen it. Mazda Miata Turbo | Tial MVS 38mm External Wastegate Install

i fabricate. If someone wanted a custom DP with external WG, I would probably charge you at least 300, probably more like 400. Unless your fab guys work for pennies...A lot of F-ing work right there, especially for a 1 off part.

i fabricate. If someone wanted a custom DP with external WG, I would probably charge you at least 300, probably more like 400. Unless your fab guys work for pennies...A lot of F-ing work right there, especially for a 1 off part.

changed my mind, external gate adds a lot of complexity. my price just went to 500.

Most downpipes are 400$ anyway and if i went with the taco taco I have to get a custom down pipe no matter what. Underdog makes it look pretty simple. I could understand that it would be very complex and hard if I was wanting to recirculate it into the down pipe but I would just make a open dump . What makes it so much more difficult then an internal wasgegate? I'm sure I'm missing something here, I just don't know what it is.

By committing to the wrong turbo and continuing to buy parts when folks are telling you to hold up, you're just going to keep making life more difficult for yourself...

There have been builds done with the tacotaco manifold. Why not find a few of those and read what folks did for their setup?

I bought my setup from a member here and he did the ewg thang on an FM manifold. My build thread has pictures of his work if you're going to keep on going down this path.

Point is, you're going to spend more time and money doing things this way and get endlessly frustrated. If that sounds fun to you then have at it, but there are so many options these days that it's facepalm worthy. Hell the mkturbo setup is awesome at a solid price and the kraken manifold on the classifieds looks pretty great and is a very reasonable price too.

A VTA wastegate will be miserable after the first week. just my VTA blowoff with a filter to muffle it is pretty loud and attention grabbing. not necessarily what you want.

a merged External set up is not worthy of a stock bottom end, shit turbo. that is for megabuck builds. you are not that.

:robert:

Why don't you just buy a MK Turbo kit. Seriously. LOL @ people buying $200 turbos then having to pay $1200 to fab shit up to make em work, and they still suck. At least buy a freaking turbo that we have kits based on. My churbo cost $165 and bolts to damn near any available manifold and downpipe, I don't get it.

I've also not seen one mention of engine management. Better get a hold of someone who sells power cards, stat.

do this

The turbo I have is the exact same turbo used in the mk kit only difference is I didn't get the one with the internal wastegate and vband....

So it's exactly the same, except it's not the same.


Have you considered an M45 and a Powercard?

Dont get me wrong, i have no problem with people doing this.



























If they can weld.

It's been mentioned and I'm sure by now you know it. You bout the wrong turbo and are trying to make it work but it's just not cost effective. Try to return the turbo and in not just eat the $200 run NA for now and piece together a good kit. Kraken has a nice manifold and lots If gt2560 and gt2554 turbos for sale. We are all like minded and trying to help but we also expect you to search and do your homework.

No I personally don't weld. I went to a technical school during High School for a automotive program and at the same school they have a welding program. I met a lot of friends along the way that would be willing to hep me out. also the school is always looking for projects for the students to practice on (no it's not just high school kids. It is a legit program). Also living in AZ there are a lot of fabricators in the area to choose from. Needless to say I have a couple options. I plan on taking my time and just tackling one little project at a time. And to answer your engine management question I will be going with a megasquirt unit, not sure which one yet though. I am really set on going with the t3 50 trim turbo. I have read lots of good things about it on this forum. Supposedly it spools nearly identical to a 2554. I did mean to get the one with the vband and internal wastegate but I didn't pay attention when I bought the turbo. I am not to upset about it though because I've read a few bad things about the internal wastegate on this turbo and external is just all around better except for that fact that it is more complex. I will make a build thread and title it " The little noob that could" so keep an eye out for it maybe if you guys are lucky I will fail and you can use it as a example.

Yeah I understand what your saying and I appreciate all the the advice it's just that I already have my mind made and I want to go with the ebay t3 50 trim. I just had a simple question and it was, is it the same turbo minus the vband and the wastegate. I already knew the answer kinda. I just was looking for reassurance. And believe it or not I have been reading for over a year. My original plan was to go with a begi mani and a t25 turbo but I recently came across turbo toms build and I got into reading other peoples builds with the same turbo and I had to have it. I used to have a bugeye wrx with full bolt ons. I bought it that way and realized if it ever broke I would have no clue what to do. So I sold it and bought a miata because I wanted to learn how to work on cars and we'll I figured a miata was the perfect car to do that with. So if this is a little more of a challenging route I'm okay with that.

It's not in the same universe.

That said... since you have your mind made up, good luck. :)

Why did you come here? You had your mind made up from the beginning and just wanted us to back up your idea.

We don't want you to fail (or, at least, we didn't when you first started posting). At this point though... It'd probably be good for you.

Good luck!

Journal bearing 80's design vs ball bearing 90's design.

http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/...ms-legit23.jpg

So no one rememebrs when Greg Peters said on his youtube channel not to get a T3 because they all suck and have enormous amount of lag. And then people on this forum got mad and told him that their t3 50 trims had better spool then his 276hp setup with the 2554. cause I remember lol

I don't know who that is, so nope i don't.

I also don't care. The T3 in question doesn't spool as quickly as a GT2554r. Full stop.

I think the key difference was Greg was still on a 1.6 at the time and the people seeing good spool out of their T3 50 trims are on 1.8s.

Another difference is Greg listens to the advice of the people on this forum who have years of experience turbo charging Miatas.

You dont sound like you want to spend a ton of money and are not well versed in turbo miatii. So, one last time....Your turbo choice is making this journey more complicated and more expensive. Find a good 2560 for about 300-50 bucks or a good 2554 for much less. this is the easy street.

I have a chinese 2854 I can sell you for $100. It spools faster than a 2554, because if you put it on a 1.6 it will be more revvy. Also, the oil seal is leaky, so that increases exhaust gas volume.



Edit: On a side note, did you even read this thread? Most of the crappy spool I see is based on a poor tune and poorly matched parts, anyways. I am sure I can find the right dyno chart and show how my chinese 2871 out spools a 2560 if I use enough confirmation bias in my search. (I think we all know there is no way in hell it ever would)

https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...ol-data-26641/

Another option is to step up to the plate and get the TSE turbo kit with efr 6258 but that seems like a big step.

You have so many options to do this right and have a great setup. But your path is steering you away from that quick

And once again my whole churbo setup will be up on here in the next couple months for a 1.6 and one of those fancy smancy ball bearing things

Dude.

I appreciate your enthusiasm, but you're not going to get a guy who has his dick in the wrong $200 turbo to give it up and shell out for an EFR setup.

But brooooo, he is already 200 bucks deep into this project, can't turn back now!
shiiiiiiiit, wait till you got 4k wrapped up into it and then realize that you did it all wrong. 1,500 turbos are a theoretical possibility, but only for someone about 9 levels up from you. Throw that piece of shit in the toilet and start over now. Trust us.
Later dood, I'll check In regularly for updates. Wanting action but expecting comedy.

Ebay Turbo ( already have) - 150
Taco taco manifold (already have) - 125
Custom Downpipe - let's say 300
Mspnp (don't know which one yet) - 800
cx racing Intercooler ( already have) - 90
Ebay Intercooler pipes + anything extra not in kit - 100
ebay Oil lines - 40
Act clutch ( haven't done enough research yet to see if lightweight flywheel is needed) - 400
ebay WG ( we will see what happens) - 80
Ebay bov ( we will see what happens) -50
Intake - 30
Force flow dynamics Injectors - 300 (unless I find cheaper better option)
Boost gauge -50
Wideband - 200

Total - 2715

So this leaves me with a little over $1000 to get a exhaust setup, make mistakes and buy any other things I will need along the way and be at the same price of the mk kit. Plus I get a clutch. sorry for all the misunderstanding. I guess the title of the thread was a little misleading but my question was not what turbo should I get but if it was the same one as the one used in the mk kit. It is the same turbo but it doesn't have a wastegate and doesn't have a vband. I kind of already knew that just wanted reassurance. I do appreciate all the advice. Do you guys think not having the vband will create a little more room for a downpipe? So I could possible go with a 3" downpipe? Just a thought.

And sorry about my comment on the t3 vs the 2554 I'm sure that does come from a lot of biased research. I have obviously have no experience but i have read in a few threads that they have similar spool.

This will not be my daily driver btw. I'm just a 19 year old kid trying to learn a thing a or two. It's all going to be okay.

If this turbo is so bad then why is the mk kit so highly recommended? Other then it would be a million times easier to install.

my daddy told me to learn from stupid people's mistakes, instead of making my own. it's a lot less expensive that way.

carry on

You are delusional my friend. Let us know how the wastegate works out, Its a total mystery to all of us. Get me the name of the guy who makes $300 external wastegate down pipes. I have a business proposition for him.

Pepperidge Farm remembers.

But, the MK kit comes with a 3 inch exhaust, and a non-ricey muffler. I think my 3 inch cost me around $400-500 if I'm not mistaken. Im sure (I hope with the quality he does) Abe charges more now.

Also, I have to say no to the ebay wastegate. I have good luck with ebay parts, so do my friends, but his ebay EWG took a dump, and he had to buy a real TIAL one, so drop a little more money there. Your wastegate isn't something you want screwing up anyways. I have a TIAL knock off BOV, and while it sounds nothing like the real one, works flawlessly once I added a 1/4 inch hose barb at the top. Also, since you are welding your own IC pipes, I would just buy mandrel bends off summit and paint them, and skip the ebay hellachromez things.

You want a full 3" exhaust mine was in the 700ish range in just materials and i did all the cutting fitting and welding. If this isnt your daily thats more reason to build it good and not cut corners. Buy once cry once. And i have a turbo 1.6 now and its fun by all means and the only reason i have a turbo 1.6 with a gt2860 is because it was free (see build thread to see why) But if i did it over again i would have gone with way better components and had a faster spooling more powerful car.

@kmo25 has the only budget build that I've seen that has been both successful in keeping costs low and maintaining reliability


https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...t-build-89969/

Double post.

But you're just burning money learning the hard way. Ask me how I know. I had a 1.6L that needed a new timing belt, and ended up going a little overboard.

Overall your list is not horrible, just a bit underpriced in some things.

You will spend more the $40 on oil lines. The 2 flanges for the turbo inlet and outlet are $15 a piece on ATP turbo. Plan on spending $25 on the TSE oil adapter feed. For actual AN lines, please do not shop on eBay for those. When they leak and your engine bay goes up in flames you will be upset. Oil lines are one of the places you should not cheap out on. If you want to roll your own I suggest Mocal fittings from Bat INC, or look in your phone book for a local hydraulic shop and go there and have them make you lines.

Your IC pipes and couplers budget of $100 is underpriced. If you have AC and PS expect to spend a good bit more then that. As routing around those on the hot side is a pita. If you can't weld aluminum, then your costs will go up even more. I would budget close to $150-$200 for all those pipes and couplers and clamps. Siliconeintakes.com is your friend for all of those pieces. I also source my BOV from there.

Your downpipe price is probably a bit low. I would expect any shop to charge between $400-700 for a custom DP, especially one with an EWG that needs to be routed back into the exhaust.

Go with a FM or 949 clutch and a 1.8 flywheel. Both those hold more torque then the ACT clutches, have better pedal feel, and cost less.

Plan on a bit more then $30 for the intake. A good K&N filter alone will be that much, then you will have a coupler, pipes, and clamps. $50 is a much closer value.

For the ECU you want a MS3 of some sort. Don't waste time or energy going with anything older. It will just make you hate the tuning process.

:bowrofl::dealwithit:

1000 churbo? You walking funny?

Only walk funny sometimes. He could easily find a turbo for 100 or less from a quality flavor. I found a efr6258 for 1200 never been mounted just need to save some pennies to get it