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Old 05-17-2013, 12:24 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
Looks good except for the injectors. Those are a VERY WEAK LINK in your system unless you're somehow running more fuel pressure.

So how much are you running and what does the LC1 read when you romp on it?
All the mods were done by the PO (who had it advertised on this board). I've only had the car for a couple weeks. It's reading 12-14 at idle. Jumps to around 22, sometimes a little higher when I'm really into the gas at high revs, but I don't really do that since I don't want to abuse it. I just picture taking off and hearing the axle or drive shaft detonate.

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Seriously, those wheels are probably costing you 30-40HP (depending upon gear) and are trashing your handling and braking. You could sell those to some poor, ignorant bastard, buy something decent and pocket the difference. Advertise them to anyone with an unusual love for the letter "Z."

I would not let my daughter drive on wheels like those. Stopping matters. Just sayin'.
I'm not really interested in HP. This is my kids car. I just want it to run reliably for her. The fact that it's turbo charged wasn't a plus for me. I was actually considering taking it back to stock since the PO gave me all the stock parts with it. When the tires go bald we'll talk about different wheels to keep the tire cost down. I've got the factory tires/rims with it.

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BTW, I graduated from Norton HS (near Barberton) many decades ago. Know the area well.
I graduated from Jackson in 1984.
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:36 AM   #22
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Jumps to around 22, sometimes a little higher when I'm really into the gas at high revs, but I don't really do that since I don't want to abuse it.
Really?? Anytime it's any leaner than 12:1 when you're in boost you need to immediately let off.
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:37 AM   #23
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I'm not really interested in HP. This is my kids car. . . . I've got the factory tires/rims with it.
That's why I emphasized stopping. Handling and braking were my main concern, not the HP. The factory tires/rim would be much better than what you have.

Unless you're hitting a track or autocross, you'll be waiting a long time for a Miata to wear out its tires. They're really light. I usually end up swapping based upon age rather than wear. My dad worked for BFG. He gives me a hard time when tires get around 4 years old.

Looks like you're having a nice Spring up there. Big hail and tornadoes down here.
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:42 AM   #24
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Really?? Anytime it's any leaner than 12:1 when you're in boost you need to immediately let off.
He might be getting a misfire and the WBO2 is picking up the excess oxygen.

If it's happening when he gots off the throttle, it's overrun cutoff (which is a good thing).
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Old 05-17-2013, 05:58 PM   #25
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I was driving it around today and I was wrong about the high reading. It's doing that when I'm going fast and let off the gas. The engine compression slows it down and the gauge jumps to 21+. During acceleration it's rarely above 13. I haven't tried to punch it hard lately but it seems to actually drop to around 10-11 when I'm accelerating. I need to find some open road where I can push it and let you know what it's doing.
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:33 PM   #26
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It's doing that when I'm going fast and let off the gas. The engine compression slows it down and the gauge jumps to 21+.
That's called "Overrun Cutoff." Basically, the ECU is cutting all fuel when it detects that you are coasting in gear. Good for fuel mileage and the engine in general.

I assume you have a PC for tuning? MS is pretty powerful.
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Old 05-18-2013, 10:25 AM   #27
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Good to know. I've got a PC and a whole bunch of stuff but haven't taken it out of the box of "stuff" yet. Last night it got really hard to shift, like the clutch wasn't releasing all the way. It went away itself, but came back again before I got home. I'm guessing it's a hydro clutch.
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Old 05-18-2013, 10:57 AM   #28
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Yes. The slave cylinder is the most common wear item, although it might also be the master. On the slave, you can squeeze the rubber rod cover to see if it's leaking. Leaks from the master will be harder to detect unless it's a large leak. It doesn't take much leakage to make the clutch disengagement soft, especially with a stiffer clutch like the ACT Stage 1 (excellent clutch, BTW). There is also a clutch adjustment at the pedal. Your car apparently hasn't been driven much, so you need to be watchful for problems related to dried-out seals.

Fortunately, the clutch master and slaves are dirt cheap and easy to replace. That's what you'll find about the Miata. In general, robust. When items go bad, they will be common wear items, will be inexpensive and easy to service. It out-Jeeps a Jeep.

I'm well past 200K in mine.

There is an OEM Field Service Manual in a sticky here (https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-sa...-manual-48633/). Recommend that you download it. It's an indexed PDF. Very useful.

Last edited by hornetball; 05-18-2013 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:35 AM   #29
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pls post pic of amp / subwoofers in trunk...

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Old 05-18-2013, 03:26 PM   #30
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If you're accelerating and its reading 13 its too lean. I'd say get to about 4k in 4th and lay into it. It should dip down lower (richer) at first then level out around 12-12.2. Then when you let off it will skyrocket which is whst you want to happen since the injectors shut off.

Ditto on the suggestions to ditch the wheels. Slap some 15s on there and a nice thick tire and it will handle and ride better.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:07 PM   #31
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pls post pic of amp / subwoofers in trunk...




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Originally Posted by Tallguyboost View Post
If you're accelerating and its reading 13 its too lean. I'd say get to about 4k in 4th and lay into it. It should dip down lower (richer) at first then level out around 12-12.2. Then when you let off it will skyrocket which is whst you want to happen since the injectors shut off.

Ditto on the suggestions to ditch the wheels. Slap some 15s on there and a nice thick tire and it will handle and ride better.
That's actually more like what its doing. Its pretty much right on 12 but does dip down when it's accelerating hard. As far as the wheels, they're on it for now. The kiddo likes them and it's her car. When she wears them out and has to replace them I'm sure the stock wheels will appeal to her.
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Old 05-19-2013, 03:55 PM   #32
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Changing the oil soon. Do I need to do anything different since it's turbo charged? Does the turbo charger itself need any maintenance?
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:32 PM   #33
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Oil changes are pretty much the same as non turbo. Turbo is maintenance free item till it blows up and stuff.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:50 PM   #34
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Turbo cars usually have a a lot more carbon deposits in the oil, so don't be too alarmed by how dark it may be. I know I was with my first turbocharged vehicle. Also, I'm not sure if it applies to all turbo motors, but with the subarus I've owned they tend to use a little more oil so you have to keep a good eye on the oil level between oil changes.
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:41 AM   #35
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Changing the oil soon. Do I need to do anything different since it's turbo charged? Does the turbo charger itself need any maintenance?
ROTELLA T6

still pretty cheap if you have an advanced auto near by... im new to using rotella, and im impressed... i know most of the time, its just in your head, but i SERIOUSLY noticed a difference for the better immediately with it
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:15 AM   #36
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ROTELLA T6

still pretty cheap if you have an advanced auto near by... im new to using rotella, and im impressed... i know most of the time, its just in your head, but i SERIOUSLY noticed a difference for the better immediately with it
I'll have to keep it in mind for the next time. I just used a 10/30 full synthetic. I religiously change my oils and filters at 5K. It's the cheapest insurance you can buy for your vehicle. And I always use WIX filters.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:28 AM   #37
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The only thing a bit different with a turbo is the amount of heat the oil can see in the CHRA. Using synthetic (as you did) helps the oil resist coking in those passages.

+1 on the diesel oil. Miata is a flat tappet engine. It really likes the diesel formulation of anti-wear additives (which have disappeared in the latest gasoline oils).
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:31 AM   #38
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The only thing a bit different with a turbo is the amount of heat the oil can see in the CHRA. Using synthetic (as you did) helps the oil resist coking in those passages.

+1 on the diesel oil. Miata is a flat tappet engine. It really likes the diesel formulation of anti-wear additives (which have disappeared in the latest gasoline oils).
An engine builder buddy just said the same thing today; since the EPA ordered a reduction in Phosphorus content in over the counter oils last year he's seen more wiped cams in a year than in his entire 25 years of engine building combined.
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:04 AM   #39
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My G8 lost its cam. It's the roller-tappet L76 engine with the lifters that can shut off cylinders for mileage. GM replaced the cam and all lifters under warranty. Common problem (not just G8s, but Silverados, Escalades, etc.).

So, screw it. G8 gets Rotella now. I'll give up 1mpg to avoid putting water in the engine.
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:40 AM   #40
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My G8 lost its cam. It's the roller-tappet L76 engine with the lifters that can shut off cylinders for mileage. GM replaced the cam and all lifters under warranty. Common problem (not just G8s, but Silverados, Escalades, etc.).

So, screw it. G8 gets Rotella now. I'll give up 1mpg to avoid putting water in the engine.
Damn... and G8's arent all that old... the mileage couldnt have been THAT high when it happened. lol
Was it confirmed that it was from the oil???
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