Hey everyone. First post. Planning to get an NB and start a turbo miata build. I've spent a while searching on here. Looked at various threads and comparisons. Came up with what I thought was a reasonable build list by searching this forum. I had a Mazdaspeed 3 for a while. Did the basic bolt ons and went to big turbo. Then sold it. I'm missing turbo life, and want a project to tinker on.First step is to find an NB. Second step is to install MS3pro (was considering haltech 1000 but the community support of the MS3pro probably won me over)

Wally 255 w/ install kit + ID1050 (I've read people make 300+ on the stock rail so I didn't really plan to mess with any of that yet)

ACT Stage 2 + prolite flywheel for room to grow + Flat Foot Shift shenanigans

Once all that is working and I kinda mess with the tuning software

Trackspeed EFR kit - proably 6758? Or would 6258 be fine? Goal is 225 wtq as fast as it'll happen and for as long as it'll hold on pump gas at 5000 feet altitude. Eventually plan to build an engine/ 6 speed trans/3.6 rear end and run an aquamist meth set up (No e85 out here). Was also considering the kraken mani + 3" dp since it's like $1k cheaper than trackspeed. But not having to **** with my own lines and getting all needed hardware is a major plus with the trackspeed kit.

The intercooler is where I really need help. Fab9 Stage 2 core? I figure the bigger IC isn't going to hurt and allows room to grow, and A/C friendly. but what about the piping? Says it'll adapt to FM piping so that's a start I guess. But looks like that's for turbos that shoot down. Does the trackspeed efr come with the 90* housing and can that be clocked down? I don't have a welder, can't even weld, and I live like 70 miles from the closest "city" so custom fabbing intercooler pipes could be an issue. I guess I could order a kit with bends and stuff and make something happen.

I'm sure I'll need other odds and ends to finish up.

Looking for advice on what you might change or do differently. Sorry if there are a lot of noob questions. I'm still searching the site.

 

For 225 whp and a complete kit, I would seriously look at the MK turbo kit. Everything but a clutch.

 

Yeah... I saw that in the post before mine. I don't see a fuel pump or injectors in that kit. The IC looks REALLY small. And I'm aiming for 225 wtq. Not 225 whp. 225 wtq at 6500 is 280 whp. And this is going to be at 5,000 feet above sea level. I really don't think that MK turbo kit has the headroom I'm looking for. I'd need to replace that IC core and turbo for the power I'm eventually looking to make. I've also been reading of quality issues on that kit.

 

Can make you the intercooler

 

Just FYI what you want does not exist in the miata market.

If you think that I have QC issues and I am the BUDGET setup on the market, you should really do some up to date research on TSE. Also I can offer turbo's that make the power levels you want. They generally are outside of the budget category.

At the end of the day I have been in the market for the last 15 years as a consumer and producer. No vendor has ever put out setups with zero QC issues. No vendor has ever really offered a full complete kit to make the power levels you want that comes with everything you want.

You are going to have to DIY stuff. It will get even harder with you keeping AC.

 

I have a raging clue right now.

 

The MK full kit I got was everything I could have wanted. Some minor things needed changing but all in all it was a complete kit and a really good price for what I got with a solid base to upgrade in the future. I made 260whp d 250tq on MK kit, not sure how your getting exact numbers for whp to tq since there's a lot of factors that goes into that. The intercooler size was perfect. Just took it out to its first track day with flawless results.

Lars is extremely honest and up front about any issues you may have depending on how much abuse you'll be subjecting the kit to and that goes a long way with budget kits in my opinion. Also it is worth noting that you may not think you need injectors or fuel pump until you get on the dyno, and that's the last thing you want to happen.

 

Kraken is hands down the best quality and value turbo kit parts on the market right now.

Get a kraken manifold/dp/exhaust/intercooler setup, mate it with a 6258 and dont look back.

 

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HP = Torque x RPM ÷ 5252

 

alright so flywheel size, gear ratio etc has nothing to do with it? I get it he’s just generally getting the numbers but I still don’t think it’s accurate you can get exact tq from that equation.

“Part 4 of 4: How to calculate the torque of a vehicle

The formula for figuring out torque is torque = horsepower of the engine x 5252, which is then divided by the RPMs.

The problem with torque, however, is that it is measured in two different places: directly from the engine and to the drive wheels. Other mechanical components than can increase or decrease torque ratings to the wheels include: flywheel size, transmission gear ratios, drive axle gear ratios, and tire/wheel circumference.”

Source https://www.autoblog.com/2016/11/03/...r-of-your-car/

 

That article appears to be built around a loaded engine dyno and is absolutely not representative of how a typical inertia chassis dyno works.

An intertia chassis dyno, which is what every dynojet is, doesn't even measure torque at all. It measures horsepower at the wheels and calculates the torque at the wheels using that equation.

In short, if a dynojet measures a car making 280 whp at 6500 it's absolutely going to display 225 wtq at 6500 rpm.

If you do something like change gearing it will change horsepower and since we use horsepower to calculate torque it will change accordingly, but again, if you measure 280 whp at 6500 you have 225 wheel torque at 6500.

Some good reading on inertia dynos.

 

Ahhh ok, sorry for my noob'ness. Thanks for the info. I was definitely wrong after doing more research.

Didn't mean to get this thread off topic.