Noob purchases holy grail of $500 shitboxes.
#1
Noob purchases holy grail of $500 shitboxes.
Hello! My name is Jordan!
I have lurked in the past and will try and nail down forum etiquette as I go.
I've recently purchased a 2004 MSM with 108k for the smokeing price of $500, stagnate coolant in cylinder #2 included!
My first vehicle was a 92 parade blue NA which met a untimely demise with a telephone pole, in my mid 20's I purchased a 96 montego blue NA untill it decided it wanted to become one with the *** of a Honda odyssey. I'm familiar with the platform but have have been out of the loop for awhile but hope with the resources here I can get this thing running.
I am a CDJRF technician. One of our sales guys ask me to look at his son's car that had overheated, shut down, and had been sitting in his driveway for the last three years. Why it sat and was not fixed I do not know, He just said it was the start of covid and "Times were tough" I diagnosed it as a blown head gasket when I found a click no start then found cylinder #2 full of coolant when I could not turn the engine over by hand. With the plugs removed I was able to turn the engine slightly but stop to avoid and unnecessary scoring on the cylinder due to assumed rust. More digging and pressure test found a crack in the radiator. Mostly like root cause or falure.
After pricing options (non existent reman) Used eBay engine ($2800) tearing down and rebuild (who know what then end price would be) plus labor he decided it wasn't worth the time or hassle and offered it for $500 if I immediately got it out if his driveway. It also needs a top, tires, brakes and numerous other things.
My goals for the car simple. Make at move under its own power. It does have a little enchilada installed but from what I can see everything else is stock. Having a Mazda dealership next door that is in our franchise will hopefully help as I get parts at cost and I have access to all the tools and equipment I could ever need.
I'll will try and post as I tear down and decide what course of action to take once the engine is disassembled. I plan on removing the drivetrain this weekend so I will be able to share my findings then.
Thanks for having my guys.
I have lurked in the past and will try and nail down forum etiquette as I go.
I've recently purchased a 2004 MSM with 108k for the smokeing price of $500, stagnate coolant in cylinder #2 included!
My first vehicle was a 92 parade blue NA which met a untimely demise with a telephone pole, in my mid 20's I purchased a 96 montego blue NA untill it decided it wanted to become one with the *** of a Honda odyssey. I'm familiar with the platform but have have been out of the loop for awhile but hope with the resources here I can get this thing running.
I am a CDJRF technician. One of our sales guys ask me to look at his son's car that had overheated, shut down, and had been sitting in his driveway for the last three years. Why it sat and was not fixed I do not know, He just said it was the start of covid and "Times were tough" I diagnosed it as a blown head gasket when I found a click no start then found cylinder #2 full of coolant when I could not turn the engine over by hand. With the plugs removed I was able to turn the engine slightly but stop to avoid and unnecessary scoring on the cylinder due to assumed rust. More digging and pressure test found a crack in the radiator. Mostly like root cause or falure.
After pricing options (non existent reman) Used eBay engine ($2800) tearing down and rebuild (who know what then end price would be) plus labor he decided it wasn't worth the time or hassle and offered it for $500 if I immediately got it out if his driveway. It also needs a top, tires, brakes and numerous other things.
My goals for the car simple. Make at move under its own power. It does have a little enchilada installed but from what I can see everything else is stock. Having a Mazda dealership next door that is in our franchise will hopefully help as I get parts at cost and I have access to all the tools and equipment I could ever need.
I'll will try and post as I tear down and decide what course of action to take once the engine is disassembled. I plan on removing the drivetrain this weekend so I will be able to share my findings then.
Thanks for having my guys.
#2
Welcome! All up-side at that price!
Yeah, that radiator should have been replaced long time ago, when they get brown disaster is just picking the time to strike. It would be a waste of a good base to just rebuild to stock, though I can appreciate having budget constraints.
Take this opportunity to do the job properly, at least forged rods/pistons and an ECU, and a new turbo. I'm doing that right now, due to a bent rod precipitating opening the engine up. If I had had the money I would have done that when I first bought the car, but budget got in the way, and now disaster has struck and I no real option but to loosen the purse strings.
Yeah, that radiator should have been replaced long time ago, when they get brown disaster is just picking the time to strike. It would be a waste of a good base to just rebuild to stock, though I can appreciate having budget constraints.
Take this opportunity to do the job properly, at least forged rods/pistons and an ECU, and a new turbo. I'm doing that right now, due to a bent rod precipitating opening the engine up. If I had had the money I would have done that when I first bought the car, but budget got in the way, and now disaster has struck and I no real option but to loosen the purse strings.
#3
I was expecting rods and piston. I'm highly doubting a hone will save me and have been looking at weisco on the high end and supertech pistons on the lower with accompanying rods. I saw thay flyinmiata had a MSM rebuild kit that included ACL bearings. I guessing a BE oil pump as well. Hopefully this future proofs my building blocks.
As far as the turbo I was hoping to rebuild (depending on wear/damage) the IHI turbo. The kit I have found was fairly priced. My local machine shop offers a turbo balance service so it may not be too bad. I know it's weak but I'd like to keep the car somewhat stockish untill any other drivability concerns are worked out. He'll who knows what else I'll find once I can actually shift through all the gears.
As far as the turbo I was hoping to rebuild (depending on wear/damage) the IHI turbo. The kit I have found was fairly priced. My local machine shop offers a turbo balance service so it may not be too bad. I know it's weak but I'd like to keep the car somewhat stockish untill any other drivability concerns are worked out. He'll who knows what else I'll find once I can actually shift through all the gears.
#4
Keeping the poor little IHI is not a bad option, they are relatively bulletproof and it will have a big beneficial affect on your budget, while not closing off options in the future. With the built engine and an ECU you can work it hard, and replace it cheaply if it breaks. That will unfortunately infect you with the Moah Power virus, only curable with a big cash injection ... ask me how I know! On second thoughts don't!!
My first step was the ECU, a new turbo would have meant rods at least and that was not an option at that time. I did buy a Kraken manifold as a first step in the next stage but never got beyond that before the rods gave up. Now it is the rebuild plus a new turbo, and while I could have left the Kraken on the shelf I just decided life is too short not to do allofit.
Good luck with yours, I will follow your progress with interest!!
My first step was the ECU, a new turbo would have meant rods at least and that was not an option at that time. I did buy a Kraken manifold as a first step in the next stage but never got beyond that before the rods gave up. Now it is the rebuild plus a new turbo, and while I could have left the Kraken on the shelf I just decided life is too short not to do allofit.
Good luck with yours, I will follow your progress with interest!!
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07-19-2021 03:56 PM