so i bought this turd for 1k
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thoughts?
-ps belt taken off? Ac lines cut out and interior completely gutted but the ac compressor is still there?!? got a bumper and support on there massive exhaust leak fans controlled by switch, probably overheated. bad wheel bearing horrible brakes has a hard dog roll bar supposedly w/lsd came with cxracing turbo manifold and front mount w/ some piping runs and drives Plans are to get the brakes and cooling sorted out, add the bilstein's to it that i picked up, and maybe turbo the 1.6 / 1.8 swap and turbo / lm7(ls1) and t56 hoping for 250+whp cone slayer more interested in response and torque than whp#'s. Im wondering if its possible for under 1k with everything I have now (would need a t25/8 and wg, bov, oil, injectors, and diypnp |
Not sure exactly what you are asking, but my used ms3 was like 750.....so......
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im wondering if i should try to get rid of the car an get a 1.8 car or if its possible to get to stated goals for 1-2k
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If you aren't totally in love with that 1.6, sell it. When you buy it 1.8,you get: bigger brakes, bigger clutch, bigger axles and a bigger differential.
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Originally Posted by mr steve
(Post 1333515)
im wondering if i should try to get rid of the car an get a 1.8 car or if its possible to get to stated goals for 1-2k
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1.6's do require alot more to safely turbo as stated above^. i believe the only reason i did my 1.6 is i have a strong connection to the car and a healthy motor.
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1333535)
If you aren't totally in love with that 1.6, sell it. When you buy it 1.8,you get: bigger brakes, bigger clutch, bigger axles and a bigger differential.
Any guesses as to what I could sell this thing for? It does have a bumper now and i already bought all the brake parts Do the 1.6 and 1.8 bolt up to the same transmission? and motor mounts? |
The 5 and 6 speed transmissions bolt to all 90-05 motors fine. The motor mount brackets are different for 1.8 cars. The 1.8 drops right in though with the correct motor mounts.
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good to know - maybe the right play is just to buy a 1.8 and put some rods and pistons in it and swap it in down the road. I would need a new turbo mani but the rest should all swap over...
how much of a limiting factor is the axles and diff? (ie what power level are they mostly safe until?) |
The stock 1.6 diff breaks at stock power levels. You are looking at $500-$1000 to replace it with a 1.8 setup. That will include the diff, axles, and driveshaft which all need to be replaced.
If you are planning on building a 1.8 motor, expect to be $2500 or so into the bottom end. Your best bet if you want a built motor is to call Savington@TrackSpeedEngineering and write him a check for $3000 and get the built bottom end he has sitting on the shelf. |
sell the turd. it's not worth 1k at all. it looks like a $250 piece of trash
buy a real car |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1333550)
sell the turd. it's not worth 1k at all. it looks like a $250 piece of trash
buy a real car looking around on CL and other places locally looks like it'll be 3g's plus for the NB that run and drive Thanks for the feedback everyone |
Yeah, that's a bit of a risk for $1k. Finish stripping it, fix the brakes and the wheel bearing, new fan switch in the thermostat housing (probably why the fans are on a switch), flat black the bumper, and hope to get $250 above what you've now put in to it.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1333561)
Yeah, that's a bit of a risk for $1k. Finish stripping it, fix the brakes and the wheel bearing, new fan switch in the thermostat housing (probably why the fans are on a switch), flat black the bumper, and hope to get $250 above what you've now put in to it.
I might just keep it how is it for my wife to beat on so I dont have to worry about her destroying a nice car. Thanks again guys for all the quick info |
The manifold sells for like $100 new on eBay.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1333578)
The manifold sells for like $100 new on eBay.
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ya, that one can be found for 100 shipped on ebay.
it's a raging pile of junk, so you'll have to find someone stupid enough to buy it even for 100 |
Originally Posted by mr steve
(Post 1333580)
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Take all the stuff you bought, back to the store. Sell that turd and hope to just get your money back. Learn a little more about these cars and what you want to do with one.
Take this new found knowledge and make a better purchase decision next time. |
what?!
do you mean to tell him that it's not smart to spontaneously buy a bunch of stuff and then try to figure out if it's junk or not? buy first, research later |
I mean its a car I would probably buy, but I would buy it to make it work in GRM 2016 Challenge or something like that. For a very specific purpose, and I also have the knowledge to fix it and make it work.
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turbo stuff came with the car
only bought brakes for 150 ish stoptechs and centrics. the have worked well for the price on my other autox setups. bumper and lights for 75 i would be doing all the work myself and it wouldnt be first time. its a non dd, bought it to get used to rwd autox and track - GRM 2017 challenge went through my mind but that isnt the sole purpose im not trying to restore it to factory so the fact that its gutted is ok with me. |
Further illustrating that you made an uninformed decision.
1.6 for auto x- already at a disadvantage. Small engine turd. Ebay manifold and parts- Turds Probably beat to death chassis and suspension components- turds See the common theme? Put this TURD in someone else's pocket. Again, take back all of your purchased parts, sell the car, and try again. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1333586)
buy first, research later
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1333600)
Further illustrating that you made an uninformed decision.
1.6 for auto x- already at a disadvantage. Small engine turd. Ebay manifold and parts- Turds Probably beat to death chassis and suspension components- turds See the common theme? Put this TURD in someone else's pocket. Again, take back all of your purchased parts, sell the car, and try again. I understood that the 1.6 was at a disadvantage- i also understood it was way less $$ than a 1.8 car. ill do what i do with it. thanks for the info |
A decent condition 1.8 NA can be had for 1500 to 2500. I got one not long ago for 2300. 1996, 125,000mi. No rust Jewel.
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I bought a ratty $700 1.6 as my starting point as well.
For $700 it was a total riot. I drove the piss out of the 1.6 and it just refused to quit. I've been tinkering with it for a year or two and its ended up being a great learning experience in all things automotive. There are a lot of naysayers that are constantly trolling for good deals, so to them, yeah this probably wasn't a great buy. For you and the amount of fun you get out of the car, it could be the best buy of the year. I'd probably pull the turbo stuff until you get the cast manifold/ecu/injectors to properly manage the forced induction. It's going to cost money and putting total target $$ amounts on anything is futile. Decide whether the excitement of building your megasquirt and tuning your car is worth it and go from there. |
They told you to get more car for less money.
How terrible of them. Such naysayers. who cares about getting good deals and maximizing your money. it's all about dem feelz all that matters is feelz :likecat: |
Damn dude, just trying to offer some encouragement...
Everyone has to start somewhere. I had never even pulled an engine before I picked up my little gem. |
We did offer encouragement. We encouraged him to sell the self titled Turd, and buy something else.
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Originally Posted by leboeuf
(Post 1333613)
Damn dude, just trying to offer some encouragement...
Everyone has to start somewhere. Do you appreciate being told the truth in a harsh manner or lies in a very friendly/nice manner? Do you like to be encouraged to waste money for no reason? I'm genuinely curious. I'm not mad, I'm not trolling, I'm seriously curious to know what you guys think. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1333617)
I'm not mad, I'm not trolling, I'm seriously curious to know what you guys think. OP, Sell your turd+ Buy this turd= Profit https://www.miataturbo.net/cars-sale...top-dfw-89110/ |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1333617)
I ask completely seriously:
Do you appreciate being told the truth in a harsh manner or lies in a very friendly/nice manner? Do you like to be encouraged to waste money for no reason? I'm genuinely curious. I'm not mad, I'm not trolling, I'm seriously curious to know what you guys think. My interests in cars is for intellectual and not material gain. Enough about me. Really I didn't notice all the flaky posts about the op trying to flip a sh#tbox. Flipping a sh#tbox only dumps more sh#t on you. If he were interested in legitimately building the car, no matter what the starting point is, then I would hope that we would help and not just rain on the parade. I hear if you save a miata you get your wings. |
Yep, and that's exactly what we do.
We give people valuable advice to not dump their (hopefully) hard earned money into a pile of poo. But if someone loves a certain car (even a 1.6L teehee) and is dead set on working with what they have, no one rains on any parades :) |
:facepalm::hatecat:
many assumptions made hella opinions Im going to keep it and beat on if for a while for fun, and figure out plans later. |
Originally Posted by mr steve
(Post 1333683)
:facepalm::hatecat:
many assumptions made hella opinions Im going to keep it and beat on if for a while for fun, and figure out plans later. :) good luck and have fun |
I just got a text from the future...hold on.
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That car looks like it has syphilis. Not "hurr durr car syphilis" like rust or grime, but actual literal Treponema pallidum.
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And NPR just reported that Pfizer is running low on syphilis vaccine. ..
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We managed to get my friend's $1500 bed linered turbo 91 up and working well for a reasonable amount. His seems to have been in slightly better shape than this one though. All told, by the time he gets it done (clutch, different manifold and turbo, ecu, fuel injectors, maintenance and other things) he will be into it for a grand total of $4k. Selling the stuff that is on it now that is being replaced should net about $400-800 depending on what drift kiddies are around to sell it to.
That said, I have spent the last 3 years reading everything I can about how to turbo a miata on this site and that is the only reason this car is even running still at this point. The way the previous owner had it set up would have self destructed in a few hundred miles at best. (like trying to run 15lbs of boost on the stock 1.6 injectors with just a voodoo box...) |
Originally Posted by x_25
(Post 1333795)
We managed to get my friend's $1500 bed linered turbo 91 up and working well for a reasonable amount. His seems to have been in slightly better shape than this one though. All told, by the time he gets it done (clutch, different manifold and turbo, ecu, fuel injectors, maintenance and other things) he will be into it for a grand total of $4k. Selling the stuff that is on it now that is being replaced should net about $400-800 depending on what drift kiddies are around to sell it to.
That said, I have spent the last 3 years reading everything I can about how to turbo a miata on this site and that is the only reason this car is even running still at this point. The way the previous owner had it set up would have self destructed in a few hundred miles at best. (like trying to run 15lbs of boost on the stock 1.6 injectors with just a voodoo box...) not sure why everyone assumes this car is in bad shape- just needs brakes and fan switch not going to turbo a 1.6, i might swap in a 1.8 if I can get one reasonable priced or i might just enjoy this can an fix it up a little then sell for a better one |
Probably because you actually called it a "Turd". This implies that it is indeed, a pile of shit..
Glad to hear that it might not be the case. Post some pics for the court. |
Originally Posted by mr steve
(Post 1333506)
-ps belt taken off?
Ac lines cut out and interior completely gutted but the ac compressor is still there?!? got a bumper and support on there [somehow this is a plus? The fact that the car is assembled?] massive exhaust leak fans controlled by switch, probably overheated. bad wheel bearing horrible brakes has a hard dog roll bar supposedly w/lsd came with cxracing turbo manifold and front mount w/ some piping runs and drives
Originally Posted by mr steve
(Post 1333576)
I might just keep it how is it for my wife to beat on so I dont have to worry about her destroying a nice car.
Originally Posted by mr steve
(Post 1333599)
i would be doing all the work myself and it wouldnt be first time.
its a non dd, bought it to get used to rwd autox and track - GRM 2017 challenge went through my mind but that isnt the sole purpose im not trying to restore it to factory so the fact that its gutted is ok with me. Just needs brakes and a fan switch? Now you're starting to sound like a Craigslist ad. |
Originally Posted by Bond
(Post 1333621)
lolz.
OP, Sell your turd+ Buy this turd= Profit https://www.miataturbo.net/cars-sale...top-dfw-89110/ |
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1333953)
Probably because you actually called it a "Turd". This implies that it is indeed, a pile of shit..
Glad to hear that it might not be the case. Post some pics for the court. fair enough - might be able to snag some more tonight. |
Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1333957)
Yeah I guess we were crazy to think the car is in bad shape :dunno:
Just needs brakes and a fan switch? Now you're starting to sound like a Craigslist ad. its in bad shape if you want to return it to stock. for my purposes its ok... probably could have got the price down a little more, but for a running driving miata i think i did ok |
Originally Posted by mr steve
(Post 1333960)
hahaha
its in bad shape if you want to return it to stock. for my purposes its ok... probably could have got the price down a little more, but for a running driving miata i think i did ok |
I won't argue that a $1000 for a running driving beater miata that you don't care about is not a bad deal.
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looking at the pictures I'd completely agree it's a pile of poo. I mean, just look at it :barf:
...........but if you're happy, that's great. enjoy the car PS: it's actually a lot of fun to own a beater like that cause you can just thrash it and not care. still a beater tho |
I actually kind of did what he did. My car was in way rough shape when I started. I love it now, but it took me a LONG time and a LOT of money to get where I am today. I could have looked for a cleaner starting point and saved a ton of headaches and thousands of dollars. I think that's the gist of everyone's advice.
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Here are some more pics of the car. Sorry for my terrible phone camera. Cant really see much
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1464265493 I was reinstalling the battery and tray and tie downs and mounts. Dude just had the battery connected to the cables floating around (New battery at least!) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1464265493 This is what glare looks like. I kind of like the shitty "dash" here, but for some reason the speedo is mounted front and center and the tach is in the center console area. I guess I shouldn't be too surprised https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1464265493 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1464265493 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1464265493 body is actually pretty straight and they did an ok job of rolling the fenders https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1464265493 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1464265493 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1464265493 Hopefully the IC will just plug in and work - it wont work but hopefully it will be easy to sort out the hacks. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1464265493 |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1333581)
ya, that one can be found for 100 shipped on ebay.
it's a raging pile of junk, so you'll have to find someone stupid enough to buy it even for 100 |
Originally Posted by mr steve
(Post 1336491)
sold for 185 shipped ;)
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And here is how she turned out.... Was a bit of work:
Front Pass Wheel Bearing Both tie rod ends Both lower ball joints Shifter rebuild Bilstein Hard S dampers and diy coilovers all 4 rotors and pads Radiator fan rewire fixed ricer intake issues Fastest miata at this autox and something like 5th best time ( behind 3 c5zo6's on r comps and some talented drivers in faster cars) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...77d3175a59.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e98ea51241.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2ef3e81d61.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...36beb43ae9.jpg |
Hernando County Airport near Brooksville, and it looks like Florida Corvette Racing Club.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1371326)
Hernando County Airport near Brooksville, and it looks like Florida Corvette Racing Club.
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It's been awhile. Those are the best guys for autocross events. I started with them in 2003ish. Great relaxed atmosphere and lots of run time. I started doing track days in 2010 and stopped going out with them except on rare occasions.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1371341)
It's been awhile. Those are the best guys for autocross events. I started with them in 2003ish. Great relaxed atmosphere and lots of run time. I started doing track days in 2010 and stopped going out with them except on rare occasions.
Saw the firm but its like 200+ for a day... |
$200 is cheap for a day. Up here, you are looking at $300+ unless you go to the TNiA or Englishtown where they let you out on track with no instructor.
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