18 psi with no FMIC
 

I don't have my pump pressure on the WI set up to keep it stable though. So until i get to realy tunning it i will back it off to good ole 14 psi. here is the MLV for any who are interested.
To recap fleabay manifolds ceramic caoted
MHI small 16g
Parker store lines
Ebay knock off BOV
MS1 running fuel
LC1 WB 02
act Xtreme PP 4 puck unsprung disk
Vodoo MBC with ace hardware spring
Snow performance WI with cooling mist nozzle on a selonoid for stage 2 for a total of about 7 gph.
High impedance 542 cc/min injectors flowed and test by witchhunter performance. feeling 18 psi priceless.

Ok i have donned my flame suit lets see what happens

aren't you running stock rods?

yes with weisco 40 over pistons

does me no good when you intake temps so 25° flat throughout! Wanna fix that and try again?!


and i swear you made me believe that turbo spooled faster than my t3...guess it wasnt the case.

Yeah he does need to install a GM IAT in his crossover. It's still interesting stuff. He is still running stock timing as his MS isn't controlling spark.

he needs to fix his CLT temp sensor too.

AIT is ambient under hood temps, CLT is accurate i gues i dunno i think adam got that one right. I run a 170 or so degree thermostat at like 80% water with no FMshitercooler. I would realy like a oil cooler though so i can keep the water temps around 140 or so degrees and the oil at 190-210 max.

take it to the track!

there's no way your water is cruising at 150°F. Betcha $10 your R7 resistor is still install is fubaring the readings. All you gotta do to confirm is idle untill the fans kick on. if they come on anythign less than 200°F (93C), you know it's not reading right.

your intake temps dont move whatsoever. if you run WI at 5psi like you say, then I'd expect a small bump in temps at the onset of boost. your intake temps barely move that entire log.

can you go out and take a 3rd gear pull from 2000RPM to redline and then stop it?

My AIT is over by the Brake master cylinder of course it didn't go up yes i can ill be back in a minute. As a mater of fact here it is the MLV and a capture I fired the car up and went down the raod and back.
Attachment 215885

Brain, he's trying to say his AIT sensor is not reading the temp inside the charge pipe, but is laying loose under the hood.

Yes i am Koto here is my GM ait sensor I never claimed to have it anywhere in the intake air flow.

me = speechless

????? :dunno: So i eased up towards 5K he wanted to see the spool if you look at the log it get positive boost of .4 psi by 1400 rpm at 1 point.

Why is your AIT sensor sitting in the engine bay?

god damn you richard. fix that shit you ghetto mfer.

ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm brokes!

1. your car is running a little cold. 140F? brr. should be like 190F. the sun heating the interior of your car is 140F. fix that sensor.

2. how do you know if WI is better than an IC if you dont actually measure your intake temps?? fix that sensor too.

but tapping the manifold is to hard. and tapping the crossover gets me nothing. Just suffice it to say 17-18 psi on stock timming with minor oil pressure gauge detonation if i stay in it to long. i am sure that by tunning my pump pressure abit more or tunning it on the dyno i can do better. But i also have to fix my fuel wich for some reason is close to 12-1 through most of the range wich it should be a little higher to help me spool abit. But for a raod tune on stock spark maps i think it is pretty damn sweet. Maybe this winter when i have chad or someone help me with my spark and EBC i will have them check the rest of the unit. But doesn't MS control fans as well. I coulda swore mine was set to come on at 170 F

to qoute ben on Fan control My tstat is the lowest temperature one i could find and the ambient temps where overcast humid and in the mid 80's i see no problem with running 170 F if the value is correct if it is not correct i am gonna be pissed and go out and buy a oil cooler and a big ole koyo cause i dont like shit getting that hot period. And Y8s most interiors in the sun get around 120-130 max the plastic would start deforming if the temps got much higher.

the temp of you thermostat doesn't dictate the temp of your water. the car should be happy running at 190-200° the fans kick on at 207°.

It's wrong and your being half-assed about it. the end. come on richard! where do you have room to talk down to all the noobs...you need to pull a resistor from the MB or reflash the firmware with the correct bias settings for the CLT sensor. The AIT sensor just proves you are lazy. Both and AIT and CLT sensors are higly important on how the MS fuels your ride.

what's the fan control got to do with it?
brainy is speakin' the truth man. you needs to fix yo shit. the car was designed to run 200F
I cruise at 203-206 or so.

If there was a ghetto award ....

Your MS wasn't built to control the fans Richy. It was paralleled into the ECU to do spark, fuel and maybe idle if i remember correctly. Nothing more or less.

and to think of the pasting I got on here for my home make knock sensor mount......at least I have properly located sensors, and the wiring tidied away...

Seriously Magna, spend a weekend tidying that shit up!

and running lower than that is BAD for the engine, especially when you're 'pressing on'

what's 170F? 76Deg?? for reference the LINK ECU will NOT datalog until the coolant temps reach 80degrees....

wow 18psi!

some people collect action figures.

I'm going to start collecting photos and posts about questionable engineering in DIY turbo kits.

LOL

you'll be pleased to know my DIY mount has now gone...... the proper mount seems to perform exactly the same unfortunately i.e. I get a boatload of false knock :(

An you have the knocksense right?
The developer said that I can use the KS with the stock knock sensor I have, hoping it will work fine for me.

I thought the stock MK2 knock sensor was the wrong type?

I've twiddled about with the adjustment knob till I'm blue in the face, but no dice for me unfortunately. If i put a bit of cheap fuel in to induce knock, I can set the sensor to pick it up and kill it, but once I get over 3.5/4k the LED lights permanently. Obviously I can tell MS to ignore this false knock, but that isn't a solution at all IMO.

If i adjust the unit to not ignice from the engine noise, it then doesn't pick up any knock whatsoever.

Maybe I have a particularly noisy engine - the charger definately adds to the noise - but for me unfortunately the unit doesn't perform as I'd hoped :(

I am amazed that block doesn't have a hole through it yet.

Jesus, AIT in the engine bay not the intake tract.

I sent him an email and he said he's seen that sensor and that it should work fine. The connector won't work but i'll figure that part of it out. Reverant built his own circuit as listed in the MSE manual and uses the same stock sensor. Don't see why it wouldn't work. Guess i'll try it. My solid lifters are pretty quite and I don't have any other rattles so maybe i'll have better luck with a turbo system.

good stuff :) I'll keep my fingers crossed for you, At some point I need to remove my charger and dump rattling heatshieds etc, hopefully that will improve the situation somewhat

Holy shit Richard!!! I swear You have got to learn how to solder and do profesional electrical. You could burn your car down with that mess of wires. OMG.

Those are all the LC1 bullshit. why they give you 100ft of wire and it all is 30 guage i will never know. I was thinking about cleaning it up but i dunno now :rofl:

I have extra LC1 cable looped up too, up under the relay panel/master cyl area.

That's no excuse for those wire nuts :crx:

Why they work. Wire nuts=simple and works nuf said.

Are you out getting AIT data now? :confused: I'm very curious.

I don't think he installed the IAT. Even if he does it ahead of the WI nozzles it would be better than nothing.

Seriously?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...0&d=1189453604

usb
serial
wire nuts
birds nest in the brake rez
duct tape on splices
jumble of randomly oriented bare wires within 10" of turbo
red zip tie
air temp sensor roaming engine bay

what's the problem?

I hold our forum to a higher standard:bigtu:

You missed that really nice sensor ground to body.

You guys... Magna is a very SPECIAL member of our forum so yall play nice now ok?













Dammit He's going to burn that thing down with that horse shit hack job of wiring.

There's a wire lug there with nothing coming out of it. Rofl.

the rusty one? i wasn't sure what it was.

i always got AIT reading Rob. I put abit of tape on after i used the insulated bullet connectors so i would not have to worry about them agian.
And wire nuts work perfectly well along with the body ground for my AIT.

ugh

wire nuts are pretty bad in an automotive environment man. they're useful in situations where the wires aren't subject to extremes or movement. and even then they're only used because it's cheap and fast.

the ait sensor needs to be grounded to the block, specifically at one of the two sensor ground points by the fuel rail.

the ait sensor also needs to be inserted into the intake tract.

How can you expect your advice you offer to be taken seriously with a mess like that under the hood? First no FMICS? Then no crimpers?

i used wire nuts for a stereo install the other day, so far so good :inout:

I have crimped 90% of my wire connections but for stuff where i run 3-4 wires to 1 source and they are all realy small like the LC1 stuff it is easier to wire nut them + the stuff is under no movement stress so it should'nt fail. I also stand by the fact that WI is simpler/easier for me. The whole fmic thing has been blown out of proportion but oh well.

hey richard...what are your AITs, i wanna know how well your WI works....oh wait.