1rpm no start
 

Hey all, i am working on a diypnp for a 90-93. 1.6 non-sequential.

loaded with firmware 3.4.2 and the 1.6 base map. untouched

symptoms first in car and then confirmed with a jim stim.

Below are pictures of what the ECU looks like and what tuner studio displays. after giving it rpm signal, it will stay at 1 rpm until you cycle the key. I think there is something simple and dumb wrong on the board but i am not sure. I have been looking for a schematic of the cam circuit on the board but cannot find one. Anyone know where i can get that info? Let me know if you have any thoughts on it.

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Here is the MSQ. Its just the untouched basemap from diyautotune.

is your jimstim setup correctly?

you need to have the dip switch set for the 4G63 wheel, and then the 2nd trigger going to 4G on the DIYPNP.

dip switches 2 and 3 are set to on. all others are off. pin 24 of the JS is going to pin 4E. pin 25 of the JS is going to pin 4G.

dip switches 2 and 3 are set to on. all others are off. pin 24 of the JS is going to pin 4E. pin 25 of the JS is going to pin 4G.

here is an actual log

so i found out the problem with the JimStim. forgot a jumper. It now activates the tach in tuner studio without problems.

However, when i hook it up to my car, it still only shows 1 rpm. My car is a 93 that has run on a diypnp previously and is now on an ms3x with a bob. So two different cars show the same fault of 1rpm but the JimStim is able to work the tach fine.

current composite log with it on my car. no cam signal. also current with the jimstim

to give a run down of how i have the jimstim connected.

1B- 28(12v)
4A- 1(GND)
4B- 4(GND)
4E- 24(OPT-)
4G- 25(VR2)

Then i did some testing to see if there is something that is shorting when the chassis connectors are hooked up.
I removed 1B and connected connector 1 on my car. When arranged like that the problem occurs. So that leads me to believe that there is something on the board that is shorted between VR2 and something that goes to connector one. So far i havent found any pins with real continuity to VR2.

Is there a reason the boot jumper has a jumper on it in those photos?

Its only on one pin so i dont lose it.

When you put the firmware on there, you did choose microsquirt, right?

Simple google search: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...t-start-58398/

I already read that thread and any other related thread i could find. Firmare is correct and has been reloaded multiple times to make sure. i have also tried multiple versions of the firmware.

did you wire for vTPS and still have tps swtich connected?

stock tps was plugged in but the MS was never wired for VTPS

having built exactly one MS, I'm not going to be able to troubleshoot your specific issue, but I have soldered PCB's for a living. It's a little hard to judge based on the pics you posted, but it looks like you got a bunch of cold sockets. What soldering iron tip are you using? Do you have an adjustable temperature iron? I wouldn't be surprised if you built the thing right, but you have a cold joint that isn't conducting. You can touch up the board pretty easily. It looks to me like you did all your soldering from the underside of the board. Go back & touch up the tops of every joint that looks like it didn't flow well. Apply heat and more solder (mostly for the flux), but do it from the top of the board this time.

It's a bit of a long shot, but it's not going to hurt anything as long as you don't wayyy overheat anything.

Thanks for the advice. I just went through everything and resoldered from the top. made sure the solder flowed into the joint and not just on top of it.

I will put it in my car tomorrow and try again.

if it was working on the stim is should on car. what did the composite log during cranking look like?

Hey Brain, i posted 2 logs earlier. 1 on the jimstim working fine and 1 on my car. when on my car it loses the cam signal. Same issue that we are seeing on the owners car.

Did I originally build this?



remove R26 and see what happens.

Last night per Wackbards suggestion, i resoldered all connections from them top. I also removed the lc2 power and ground directly from the board. All works as it should now.

Has anyone else had a problem that was caused by wiring wideband power and ground straight to the board? I feel like it was just some bad soldering on the board that caused it. Thanks for all the help and cats to all.

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