2 Questions for the Price of One...
1.) When setting up a shift light on an MS3x is the correct wiring: Injector E (Pin 7) -> 12v LED -> Ground? Then program Inj E as a custom output to turn on at desired RPM?
2.) How do I program an output from the MS3x to drive a NarrowBand O2 sensor? I know you can program the Innovate WB controller to output a signal that will drive a NB gauge but the Innovate output is going into the MS3x. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -Jeremy |
Make certain you use a ground on the other side of the led for pins which have a 12v output, and power on the other side for outputs which ground when activated.
Narrowband does nothing, forget it. Dann |
Thanks for the reply, just to verify the Injector pins DO put out a 12v signal correct?
Also, I said, NarrowBand 02 Sensor, but I meant NB 02 gauge. Similar to an Autometer 5775. Can the outputs from the MS3x be programmed to send a 0-1v signal based upon AFR, similar to how Innovate gives an option for an output that can be read by a NarrowBand Gauge? Thanks again, -Jeremy |
INJ outputs +ve yes.
Forget the narrowband. Just delete the concept from your conscious. 100% useless with your standalone ECU. Dann |
Thanks for the info. I wasn't making myself clear regarding the Narrowband. I have and am using a Wideband sensor and controller. I understand the difference between a NB and a WB sensor. I am only wanting to have an output programmed so that it reads correctly on a NB gauge. You can program the innovate controllers to put out a signal that can be accurately displayed on a NB gauge, even though you are using a WB sensor and controller. I was looking to have the MS push out a 0-1v signal depending on the AFR range that could be fed into the NB GAUGE to display the correct AFR from the WB SENSOR.
I'll figure it out. Thanks for the help on the shift light. -Jeremy |
INJ does NOT output 12V but ground!
IAC outputs are 12V Spark outputs are 5V |
Originally Posted by thejaaaman
(Post 1481861)
I am only wanting to have an output programmed so that it reads correctly on a NB gauge.
If you are to continue pleading insanity, most Innovate WB controllers have two analog outputs (at least the MTX-L and LC-2 which seem to be the most common ones and the ones I've used). From the factory, one is configured as a "proper wideband" signal which is what you connect to the MS or a gauge, and the other one set up as a narrowband signal, to hook up to the stock ECU if you have one. E: when connected to an actual narrowband o2 sensor, there is a small window in which you can sort of detect stoich and show it on that silly gauge. However, when you emulate that signal (with the Innovate controller, some hack with MS, or some external circuitry) that window either disappears, or at least will be pretty inaccurate. If you have an actual wideband O2 sensor, there is no reason to have that gauge. Throw it away, and mount a proper AFR gauge in its place. |
Originally Posted by thejaaaman
(Post 1481820)
1.) When setting up a shift light on an MS3x is the correct wiring: Injector E (Pin 7) -> 12v LED -> Ground? Then program Inj E as a custom output to turn on at desired RPM?
2.) How do I program an output from the MS3x to drive a NarrowBand O2 sensor? I know you can program the Innovate WB controller to output a signal that will drive a NB gauge but the Innovate output is going into the MS3x. |
Originally Posted by jstck
(Post 1481999)
Why would you have a gauge display the narrowband-signal? The answer is you don't, and you would much rather have a gauge showing the proper AFR / lambda value which is actually useful information. Any gauge fed from a "narrow-band-like signal" would never show actual AFR / lambda values, but just be a binary thing showing "rich" or "lean".
I'm disappointed in responses like this. if you have a 20 led gauge that takes a 0-1v signal, it's pretty simple to convert your 0-5v WBo2 signal down to 0-1v in 20 steps. I used the exact NB gauge linked above fed from my LC-1 for years. you just have to learn what LED means what actual AFR until you replace the gauge with a 0-5v digital one... you're over complicating this... |
Though no matter how skillfully you set up a NB gauge, it will never be as useful or accurate as a WB one, and installing one when there is a nice WB signal available seems odd.
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Sorry guys you're right.
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Originally Posted by jstck
(Post 1482161)
Though no matter how skillfully you set up a NB gauge, it will never be as useful or accurate as a WB one, and installing one when there is a nice WB signal available seems odd.
buy a WB that doesnt suck. program it so it can be broken down into easily divisible steps that make sense for the gauge and then learn what AFR each led light means. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f75c1f4e34.png 20 leds. 0.050-1v range. each LED works at each 0.05v interval. if you outputted 10-18AFR your AFR at each LED would be: 10 10.421 10.842 11.263 11.684 12.105 12.526 12.947 13.368 13.789 14.21 14.631 15.052 15.473 15.894 16.315 16.736 17.157 17.578 17.999 meaning you should idle at the yellow LED between the T and O. and in boost you'd want to be right around the R in the Green. and in cruise youd want to never see red. not hard if you know the scale. still very useful and acurate -- just hard to read cause it's a lot easier to read the numbers "11.5" than trying to make sure your LED is GREEN. or just buy a digital gauge like you really should do... |
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