thejaaaman

1.) When setting up a shift light on an MS3x is the correct wiring: Injector E (Pin 7) -> 12v LED -> Ground? Then program Inj E as a custom output to turn on at desired RPM?

2.) How do I program an output from the MS3x to drive a NarrowBand O2 sensor? I know you can program the Innovate WB controller to output a signal that will drive a NB gauge but the Innovate output is going into the MS3x.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Jeremy

nitrodann

Make certain you use a ground on the other side of the led for pins which have a 12v output, and power on the other side for outputs which ground when activated.

Narrowband does nothing, forget it.

Dann

thejaaaman

Thanks for the reply, just to verify the Injector pins DO put out a 12v signal correct?
Also, I said, NarrowBand 02 Sensor, but I meant NB 02 gauge. Similar to an Autometer 5775. Can the outputs from the MS3x be programmed to send a 0-1v signal based upon AFR, similar to how Innovate gives an option for an output that can be read by a NarrowBand Gauge?

Thanks again,
-Jeremy

nitrodann

INJ outputs +ve yes.

Forget the narrowband. Just delete the concept from your conscious. 100% useless with your standalone ECU.

Dann

thejaaaman

Thanks for the info. I wasn't making myself clear regarding the Narrowband. I have and am using a Wideband sensor and controller. I understand the difference between a NB and a WB sensor. I am only wanting to have an output programmed so that it reads correctly on a NB gauge. You can program the innovate controllers to put out a signal that can be accurately displayed on a NB gauge, even though you are using a WB sensor and controller. I was looking to have the MS push out a 0-1v signal depending on the AFR range that could be fed into the NB GAUGE to display the correct AFR from the WB SENSOR.

I'll figure it out. Thanks for the help on the shift light.

-Jeremy

WestfieldMX5

INJ does NOT output 12V but ground!
IAC outputs are 12V
Spark outputs are 5V

jstck

This is not how to delete the concept from your mind. Why would you have a gauge display the narrowband-signal? The answer is you don't, and you would much rather have a gauge showing the proper AFR / lambda value which is actually useful information. Any gauge fed from a "narrow-band-like signal" would never show actual AFR / lambda values, but just be a binary thing showing "rich" or "lean".

If you are to continue pleading insanity, most Innovate WB controllers have two analog outputs (at least the MTX-L and LC-2 which seem to be the most common ones and the ones I've used). From the factory, one is configured as a "proper wideband" signal which is what you connect to the MS or a gauge, and the other one set up as a narrowband signal, to hook up to the stock ECU if you have one.

E: when connected to an actual narrowband o2 sensor, there is a small window in which you can sort of detect stoich and show it on that silly gauge. However, when you emulate that signal (with the Innovate controller, some hack with MS, or some external circuitry) that window either disappears, or at least will be pretty inaccurate.
If you have an actual wideband O2 sensor, there is no reason to have that gauge. Throw it away, and mount a proper AFR gauge in its place.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

INJ E is the ground side...

you don't. Have your WB controller output a NB signal to the gauge.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

not if you program the output correctly.

I'm disappointed in responses like this.

if you have a 20 led gauge that takes a 0-1v signal, it's pretty simple to convert your 0-5v WBo2 signal down to 0-1v in 20 steps. I used the exact NB gauge linked above fed from my LC-1 for years. you just have to learn what LED means what actual AFR until you replace the gauge with a 0-5v digital one...

you're over complicating this...

jstck

Though no matter how skillfully you set up a NB gauge, it will never be as useful or accurate as a WB one, and installing one when there is a nice WB signal available seems odd.

nitrodann

Sorry guys you're right.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

itll be accurate it just wont be precise. it uses the WB signal just converted down into 1v instead of 5v. there's no skill about it.

buy a WB that doesnt suck. program it so it can be broken down into easily divisible steps that make sense for the gauge and then learn what AFR each led light means.




20 leds. 0.050-1v range. each LED works at each 0.05v interval.

if you outputted 10-18AFR your AFR at each LED would be:
10
10.421
10.842
11.263
11.684
12.105
12.526
12.947
13.368
13.789
14.21
14.631
15.052
15.473
15.894
16.315
16.736
17.157
17.578
17.999

meaning you should idle at the yellow LED between the T and O. and in boost you'd want to be right around the R in the Green. and in cruise youd want to never see red. not hard if you know the scale. still very useful and acurate -- just hard to read cause it's a lot easier to read the numbers "11.5" than trying to make sure your LED is GREEN.





or just buy a digital gauge like you really should do...