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Old 01-17-2010, 11:27 PM   #1
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Default 94 DIYPNP Build with pictures and questions

Here's how my DIYPNP looks so far after the basic assembly:



I have some questions based on the instructions.

1)Install all resistors in the locations marked on the board except R26 - the knock sensor trim pot, and R1 through R5. Note that you will have a couple extra resistors reserved for pull-ups. These can be used in the R1 through R5 positions or for certain other mods. - From instructions

I have a couple resisters left over. 5 1k pullups, 5 100 pullups, 3 470 pullups, and 1 ALT CAM 51k. Does that sound about right? I am especially wondering about the ALT CAM resister. I don't know where it goes


2) I also have a IAC FB diode left over. Where is it on the board and is it required?

3) If you are using the high current ignition outputs, add the “ENABLE” jumper next to each output you are using. - From instructions

- How does this apply to me? Does this have to do with the nonexistant Q1-4's?

When using LC1 WB, do you remove the stock o2 sensor or do you have to weld in a new o2 bung? Currently I still have the stock narrowband but I will buy the LC1 when it comes time to install.

I also have the sequential mod kit and GM AIT on the way.

Any tips/hints appreciated. I am trying to read through the mega manual.

Thanks, Long
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Old 01-18-2010, 02:58 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longuyen88 View Post
1)Install all resistors in the locations marked on the board except R26 - the knock sensor trim pot, and R1 through R5. Note that you will have a couple extra resistors reserved for pull-ups. These can be used in the R1 through R5 positions or for certain other mods. - From instructions

I have a couple resisters left over. 5 1k pullups, 5 100 pullups, 3 470 pullups, and 1 ALT CAM 51k. Does that sound about right? I am especially wondering about the ALT CAM resister. I don't know where it goes
Sounds about right - the ALT CAM resistor is only used on cars with VR cam sensors, which the Miata does not have.


Quote:
2) I also have a IAC FB diode left over. Where is it on the board and is it required?
Wire it into the IAC pullup, banded end to 12V.

Quote:
3) If you are using the high current ignition outputs, add the “ENABLE” jumper next to each output you are using. - From instructions

- How does this apply to me? Does this have to do with the nonexistant Q1-4's?
It is for the nonexistant Q1-4. I will change the instructions to note this.

Quote:
When using LC1 WB, do you remove the stock o2 sensor or do you have to weld in a new o2 bung? Currently I still have the stock narrowband but I will buy the LC1 when it comes time to install.
Generally best to put it in the turbo downpipe, at least 18" from the turbo.
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Old 01-18-2010, 03:48 PM   #3
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Really? I didn't see that on the jumper configuration for 94-97. I just checked them and I see that for a 99 pull ups. I think I just found my problem.

Last edited by turotufas; 01-21-2010 at 12:41 AM.
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Old 01-18-2010, 04:28 PM   #4
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So it seems like I don't need any of the pull-up resisters besides the IAC pullup. Will put that in later.

My car is still stock right now (no turbo/SC until summer.) Should I weld an extra o2 bung next to the stock o2 sensor then? How will this integrate into the DIYPNP?
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Old 01-18-2010, 04:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longuyen88 View Post
So it seems like I don't need any of the pull-up resisters besides the IAC pullup. Will put that in later.

My car is still stock right now (no turbo/SC until summer.) Should I weld an extra o2 bung next to the stock o2 sensor then? How will this integrate into the DIYPNP?
MS doesn't require a o2 sensor. Its just used for tuning. Just replace the factory with the wideband.
You need to install more pull ups. See here: DIYPNP MegaSquirt installation for the Mazda Miata
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Old 01-19-2010, 12:35 PM   #6
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You need the pullups on Opto+ and VR2 as well.
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
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You need the pullups on Opto+ and VR2 as well.
So a 94-97 miata needs the IAC pullup?
I need to call you guys again.
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:39 AM   #8
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All 5's will need a pull up on the rpm input signals...
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:27 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turotufas View Post
So a 94-97 miata needs the IAC pullup?
Needs the flyback diode. I see that it's not listed in the Application Docs for 94-95 and 96-97. However, you do need to install it. Check the main board assembly instructions and scroll down to "assembly notes". You'll see the instructions for R5 for IAC pullup or flyback diode.
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Needs the flyback diode. I see that it's not listed in the Application Docs for 94-95 and 96-97. However, you do need to install it. Check the main board assembly instructions and scroll down to "assembly notes". You'll see the instructions for R5 for IAC pullup or flyback diode.
Ah I never went down that far. Thanks.
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Old 01-21-2010, 06:14 PM   #11
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Damn I dont have any of the in4001's left. I don't want to pay $7 for shipping. Can I use these from radio shack?
1N4001 Micro 1A Diodes - RadioShack.com
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Old 01-22-2010, 12:51 PM   #12
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Yes, 1 amp is fine.
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Old 01-24-2010, 05:52 PM   #13
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Thanks.
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Old 05-01-2010, 07:30 PM   #14
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So I finished building the DIYPNP for my 94. Two problems:

1) when connected to my computer, the rpm signal is way high. Like 65000 rpms. What's the issue here?

2) When I try to calibrate the tps, I get the same signal with the throttle closed and open. Key is obviously in the "on" position for this step.

My car runs perfect with the stock ecu, so I don't know if the TPS is the culprit or not.

Thanks!
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Old 05-02-2010, 05:20 PM   #15
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I resoldered the tps and vref joints on the board. I will also resolder the tach joints. Guess we'll see how it goes...
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Old 05-02-2010, 07:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longuyen88 View Post
So I finished building the DIYPNP for my 94. Two problems:

1) when connected to my computer, the rpm signal is way high. Like 65000 rpms. What's the issue here?

2) When I try to calibrate the tps, I get the same signal with the throttle closed and open. Key is obviously in the "on" position for this step.

My car runs perfect with the stock ecu, so I don't know if the TPS is the culprit or not.

Thanks!
I had the same problem with DIYPNP in my 90 miata. In TunerStudio I disabled
Tacho output, problem solved
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Old 05-02-2010, 07:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drsven View Post
I had the same problem with DIYPNP in my 90 miata. In TunerStudio I disabled
Tacho output, problem solved
Will try that, thanks! will the rpm speed still work with this off? any ill effects? I don't like to make changes to setting that I don't know.
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Old 05-03-2010, 02:02 PM   #18
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Only '95 1/2 and later Miatas actually use the tach output from the ECU.
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Old 05-03-2010, 03:40 PM   #19
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I turned tach output off, and it's still reading 65,535 rpm when plugged into TS/MT. I don't know what the problem is?

Still need help on the tps calibration, will be calling diy soon....
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Old 05-03-2010, 03:54 PM   #20
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When you open MT, are you loading the latest msq? As well as having it loaded on the MS?

I've run into this data logging if I don't open the msq in MT first.

Have you verified your trigger inputs in MT are correct?
--Alex
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