*sigh*

I finally got the DIYPNP finished and in the car, all sensors calibrated etc. My problem is that with the basemap from Autotune and "tuned" maps from other sources I am idling around 10.0 to 10.5 AFR. I originally had the CLT gauge jumpered to the wrong spot and that was making it idle poorly around 8.5 (yikes!) so I assume I'm missing something obvious outside of the tune. That being said, what are the things to check that would cause a VERY rich mixture on maps that are supposed to be tuned already? I'm not afraid to start messing with the tables but don't want to band-aid over an actual hardware or software issue.

1994 Naturally Aspirated, original engine at 220k ish miles, catback exhaust, everything else stock.

Thanks for helping a noob!

-Billy

 

you should tune the car instead of assuming some random map somewhere will just make it run right. assuming it should run right on someone elses tuned map is the most idiotic thing you can possibly assume.

if you tried tuning it and it's not a software issue, then you can start troubleshooting hardware.

post logs too

 

That's a fair point I didn't consider. I just assumed it had to be something other than the tune wrong that would make the car run that odd. I know small differences in cars mean my car won't be optimum with someone else's tune but I assumed it would at least be close. Thanks for the advice I'll start the fun of tuning tomorrow! If I'm still having trouble I'll get some logs.

 

Your engine is probably tired and not drawing the air that the other engines are. The more efficient the engine, the more fuel you have to give it. And vice-versa. In addition, warmer and more humid air means less oxygen available and less fuel required. Perhaps you've noticed it's not exactly pleasant taking your fitness test in Louisiana!

 

I would recommend trying Braineack's base tune from here: (https://trubokitty.com/#/tune). I had to adjust the injector size, switch it to batch injection, and switch radiator output from WLED to PA0.

Check your fuel VE table, I have values of ~40-43 at idle range. Check your Req Fuel calc as well.

 

Excellent advice Alumilo! I got the map loaded from that site and made adjustments for my car and I was running in the low 14's cold and mid 13's warm.

I started playing with logs just free revving in the driveway and the tune analyzer pulled fuel to make it leaner. I still feel like something else might be wrong however as even after its adjustments I was running about the same AFR (using the lite version so this is letting it analyze then saving the recommended tune). It's possible the steps it takes are small enough that I don't notice but should I just keep lowering the VE and see what happens? EGO was off for the run. Tune and log attached and thanks for any future help!

 

Buy the full version it is worth it. Ve analyze will be your friend........

 

You can't tune fuel just revving in the driveway. You actually have to be out driving. You also don't want to autotune idle values.

 

I know i can't tune for drivability just revving but i was learning about logging and tuning in general and feel like i learned a lot. Is there a specific reason you don't want to autotune idle since it's just adjusting VE to target AFR?

 

I think it is because your 02 sensor isn't that accurate below 1200.

In my case idle always goes lean also becomes a little unstable when using VE analise or whenever Ive allowed it to change idle range values. Instructions in the mega manual also suggest to tune idle manually.

 

You can set a filter on VEAL to not touch any cells below say... 1250 or so to make sure it doesn't mess with idle. I might have to go back to my own logs and fix this because I forgot to enable it before doing a bunch of testing.

You don't want VEAL to tune idle because it's something you can just do sitting in a driveway and making changes till things work. You can't simulate load just sitting there which is why you can't tune fueling without moving.

 

Beautiful Sunday for tuning!

I'm having a fun issue which is probably why I'm having a rich run issue. What I first thought was an ignorable buzzing idle valve turned out to be injector 1. Even in the key on car off position it is buzzing quite loudly. Pulled the plugs and gas smelling smoke pours out of the cylinder and the plug is soaked in fuel. I already checked my sequential wiring and see nothing wrong. So, I hopped on the google and found out other people have issue with outputs when they run sequential injection and radiator fan off PA0, but they were also using EBC. My PA0 is set for radiator fan, but I'm not using EBC. I turned off all the outputs in the I/O menu just to be safe but still have the same issue. It is a slightly intermittent issue as the car was running fine when I last drove it on Thursday but I can't recall if it was buzzing or not since I had already gotten used to ignoring what I thought was the idle valve.

So what else can I check in the settings that might cause injector 1 to freak out? Could the injector itself be damaged or operating improperly?

 

Small update: Hooked stock ECU back up. Besides spitting out a lot of smoke for the first half mile which I assume was unburnt gas sitting in the cylinder it ran fine.

 

Further research has led me to believe that there is no setting to have one injector constantly firing. Since I have (possibly) ruled out the issue with outputs and the stock ECU doesn't do it I am forced to assume there is a wiring issue with the DIYPNP itself. Does that make sense? Time to go over all my connections very carefully. Worst case scenario, I will remove the injector 1 wiring and see if it still does it and diagnose from there.

 

Which injector do you have stuck on? And is it pulsing off and on or stuck on 100%?

 

It's injector one jumpered through 4U on the adapter board. I didn't actually look in TunerStudio to see if it was pulsing or stuck firing, I suppose I should do that for diagnostic purposes... I'll do that and let you know.

 

Alright, in the fuel calculations summary screen every pulse width is almost identical (3.7...) for each injector. Is there a better way to see if it's constant on or pulsing?

 

Alright, here's a short video showing the noise the injector makes. I looked over the main board and the microsquirt very carefully and could find nothing wrong.

94 Miata, diypnp v. 1.5b sequential injection. Key on, engine off.

 

That's ******* weird. Almost sounds like my idle valve did...

Did you swap an injector for a vibrator?

 

I thought it was the idle valve at first until I started poking around... No idea what's causing this. It doesn't do it with the stock ECU.

I've heard the rumors of Miatas being faster with vibrators installed but I haven't tested it yet. Maybe I'll try that if I can't figure this out.