Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

First off: on the stem "2. Install and solder the LEDs. When looking at the LED from the top, with the flat facing to the right, the short lead is also on the right. Install the short lead so that it is in the hole closest the DB37 connector, and the long lead is on the left (towards RPMC). The LED leads may be tight in the PCB, this is okay - but use caution when inserting them. Needle nose pliers can help with this."

These directions seem to contradict what is silk screened on the board (location of the flat spot). Is the board correct or the directions?

*edit* found other documentation which is more clear... "Install the LED's with the short leg and the flat side towards the outside edge of the board. Install the pots, switches, and DB37 last."

this would mean the silk screening is correct.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

Step 65 (MS1V3): Which option do I use? Or do I just skip this step entirely since I'll be doing the "miata mod"?

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

Q14 and Q15 appear to have two adjacent pins shorted together. I removed as much solder as I could and there is definately no extra solder causing this. Can someone check theres and see if this is normal? I don't see a trace in the board that would cause it either.

I think this might be normal since it's the same transistor on each injection channel.

arga

I went down this same road. Spent days trying to clean all the solder off but I always showed that short. I don't know for sure it isn't suposed to be that way but I can tell you my injectors are firing just fine.

Frank

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

sweet.. thanks.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

So do I complete step 65 that question was never answered?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

SO about step 65? I am slowly inching my way closer and closer to it.

Al Hounos

no, the miata mods use the LED 5v to charge the ignitor, not the VB921. I actually had to remove my
VB921 to put my extra tip122 in.