Picked up a ms2 unit guy said branieck built it. It's the diypnp v1.5 board. He told me the one capacitor is blown which it is can anybody Identify what its for I've tried Google can't settle in on a final answer. It's marked c2 . thanks for your time

 

looks like a tantalum cap, that farted a death fart. The resistor to the north looks suspect as well as the one to the left of the screw head(that one minght be a cap too, C13 maybe). These things dont just happen, so id check it out really well. You also need to clean all the carbon off the board as it is conductive.

You can get the schematic from megasquirt and find out what the value of C2 is as well as the resistors.

 

Any idea how to clean it. I'm pretty sure it's just c2 it just blew smoke all over the place. The guy I bought it from showed me it started his car before he sold it to me

 

Isopropyl alcohol from the drugstore (places like CVS, Walgreens and Duane Reade will always have 90% pure or better near the pharmacy counter), and small, stiff-bristled paint brushes.

Tantalum capacitors do sometimes pop, though usually because they've been exposed to an over-voltage condition, or to reverse-voltage such as by being installed backwards.

The question is what else on the board was damaged by whatever instigating event caused the cap to pop. Sadly, I can't answer that, or even point you to where you can buy an equivalent replacement part, as DIYAutoTune (developers of the DIYPnP) refuse to publish the schematics for the board.

 

Alright. I'm pretty sure everything else is good even the one next to it. The one that's blown the one prong detached itself from the capacitor itself. I just wanna make it safe before I put it in my car

 

Based on this c2 is part of the 5v supply, and i would guess c2 and 1 are filter caps, and are probably in parallel and the same value. Can you read any of the data on c1?


Id guess it was installed backwards or someone put 12v on the output of vref.

And Joe is right, no schematics for pnp, i did not know that.

You can use qtips to clean the board too, but an acid brush kicks *** to get underneath all the component leads, etc

 

Haven't even tried hooking it up yet because of the situation it's in. I figured it had to do with the power supply or coil pack the previous owner was still driving with it like this though so I'm not sure ha. I'd rather fix it before it messes my car up

 

Replace them with 33uF/35V electrolytic capacitors. Watch out for polarity.

 

Thanks will do any specific place I should buy them or just Google them

 

Anywhere will do.

 

Thank you guys much appreciated

 

I would want the polarized ones correct?

 

All* electrolytic capacitors are polarized, so yes.

* = except for certain rare exceptions, just as low-value units used in loudspeaker crossover filters.

 

"oops"


Theyre even 105c rated.

 

^ Those aren't even close to the rating reverant specified.

Go here instead: EEU-FC1V330 Panasonic Electronic Components | Capacitors | DigiKey

 

What do ya mean? It was 35V, I was half right

Was on my phone and must have fat fingered the wrong one, my bad
They dont seem to come in less than 10s on ebay much.
10 x 33uF 35V 85 Deg Radial Electrolytic Capacitor Fast Shipping | eBay

 

I've repaired this exact issue in the past, make sure all the traces from those points are still intact. I replaced that cap and had to repair the trace from one of the legs as it was damaged when the "death fart" occurred.

 

Ordered 5 high temp 33uf 35v. Cleaned the entire board with some Wurth electrical contact cleaner. Also ordered my 12v power supply and serial to usb adapter on DIYAutoTune just a waiting game now

 

Removed old capacitor installed new one powered up and connected to computer nothing poped should be all good