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bouncy WBO2 signal

Old Nov 25, 2007 | 12:28 AM
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Default bouncy WBO2 signal

alrighty... thanks to all you guys that provided maps (particularly CJerigan and DIY AutoTune) my car is drivable with the turbo now.

The down side is that I have no idea how to tune it with the AFR as jumpy as it is. Check out the attached photo... is this normal?

Last edited by Arkmage; Nov 27, 2007 at 04:17 PM.
Old Nov 25, 2007 | 12:31 AM
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Does the JAW gauge itself go crazy like that as well or is it more smooth in it's readout? Also, is it grounded to the same spot as the MS?
That's not normal, it should not spike real high then drop in half a second like that.
This is normal.

Last edited by cjernigan; Nov 25, 2007 at 12:47 AM.
Old Nov 25, 2007 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by cjernigan
Does the JAW gauge itself go crazy like that as well or is it more smooth in it's readout? Also, is it grounded to the same spot as the MS?
That's not normal, it should not spike real high then drop in half a second like that.
This is normal.

hey that looks awfulll familiar I think you got your logs crossed chad
Old Nov 25, 2007 | 12:47 AM
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Indeed, pretty sure that is your icecream run. Kinda funny, i opened it because it was the only one on my desktop, then had to question myself where it came from.
Old Nov 25, 2007 | 01:00 AM
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Yeah that was the day i was hankering for a sundea.
Old Nov 25, 2007 | 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by cjernigan
Does the JAW gauge itself go crazy like that as well or is it more smooth in it's readout? Also, is it grounded to the same spot as the MS?
That's not normal, it should not spike real high then drop in half a second like that.
This is normal.
It's grounded to the chassis in the same location as the MS (Stock ECU mounting bolt). The display moves around quite a bit also, but it's hard to say if it's moving around as fast since I'm driving and not staring at the display.

Any ideas on what I can do to fix this? I don't believe I am running that lean because generally 22 afr won't burn.
Old Nov 25, 2007 | 01:13 AM
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You can check to see how fast it moves by just revving it sitting still. If you hold the laptop near the JAW gauge you can kind of tell if they're reading the same. Is the jaw adjustable in any way? To restrict it's jumpiness. I know it's a DIY setup but i don't know if you can adjust some firmware for it to make it read slower.
Old Nov 25, 2007 | 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by cjernigan
You can check to see how fast it moves by just revving it sitting still. If you hold the laptop near the JAW gauge you can kind of tell if they're reading the same. Is the jaw adjustable in any way? To restrict it's jumpiness. I know it's a DIY setup but i don't know if you can adjust some firmware for it to make it read slower.
The slowest setting is 8 Hz, that's where it's set at. :(
Old Nov 25, 2007 | 01:31 PM
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1) verified that the JAW display doesn't jump around like the MS readout.

2) output from JAW to MS is stable (read w/ multimeter)

any ideas? there are only 4 connection points in the line.

1) screw terminal at JAW
2) insulated spade connector under center console
3) wire to DB37
4) DB37 to MS

Right now I'm thinking I may have a bad solder joint on the db37, but it's going to suck to take that apart and check so if there are other ideas I'm open to trying them out.
Old Nov 25, 2007 | 05:13 PM
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removed connection 2 and soldered the joint, I also checked the connection on the db37 and it's clean and solid. I have less than .3 ohms between the controller output and the MS input. Still have a **** ton of noise. Come on fellas, I need help here.

Image is at idle so you can see how nasty this is just sitting still.

*edit* anyone know which pin on the LSU wbo2 is the heater ground? I think I'm going to disconnect it from the JAW and ground it somewhere else and see if that solves the issue.
Old Nov 25, 2007 | 05:17 PM
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Hmm how is your config for the wideband set? For 0-5V LC1 or something?
Old Nov 25, 2007 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by magnamx-5
Hmm how is your config for the wideband set? For 0-5V LC1 or something?
Correct 0-5V LC1 output from the JAW. MS is configured for the same.

I isolated the heater ground and grounded it near the shift turret. That seems to have helped but the signal is still nasty as hell.

ideas?
Old Nov 25, 2007 | 10:30 PM
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Man i really can't come up with anything. Have you email 14point7 or called him up possibly? Grounds and configuration are usually the only issue with widebands that i know of.
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cjernigan
Man i really can't come up with anything. Have you email 14point7 or called him up possibly? Grounds and configuration are usually the only issue with widebands that i know of.
sent him an e-mail... no response yet, but I'm not surprised since it's a holiday weekend and all.
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 01:31 AM
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On you screencap...I see a Max AFR of 21.991. How could that be if you have BOTH your LC-1 and Megatune/Megasquirt for 0-5V -> 10-20AFR?

Jim
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 05:25 AM
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fuel cut overrun. and maybe abit of over voltage.
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Reverant
On you screencap...I see a Max AFR of 21.991. How could that be if you have BOTH your LC-1 and Megatune/Megasquirt for 0-5V -> 10-20AFR?

Jim
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 02:53 PM
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Hint: You have 0-5V -> 7-22 AFR somewhere.

Jim
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 04:27 PM
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I don't want hints.. I want solutions... I'm tool slow to figure out hints.
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Arkmage
I don't want hints.. I want solutions... I'm tool slow to figure out hints.
I think what he was hinting at was to change the setting to 0v=10.1 and 5v=20.1...

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