BP4w nonturbo ignition map
 

hello,
another megasquirt ign question (searching about nonturbo ign maps wasn´t successful).
usually the answers are quite helpful at this forum :) so i´ll try it here

i´m drivin a 99 BP4W engine in my 91 mx5 - with stock header, supersprint catback (including a aftermarket "highflow" cat), no MAF/AFM, 91 B6-CAS, aftermarket airfilter.

driving good - but maybe theres some ponys still there which i cant find :D

maybe my ignition map isn´t the best one - so let´s compare it to your maps :)
(i´m driving only on premium fuel - 95 or 98 ROZ - in US 91 or 93 gasoline).

heres the ign map:

http://www.bilder-upload.eu/upload/7c1730-1457.jpg

sorry for my bad english :(
greetings from germany

I don't know how to take or post a screen shot. But, I am running about 33 degrees (top right side of map)advance at high load and about 40 degrees at low load high rpm(lower right side of map).

whats the reasoning behind the bumpy random spark map you currently run?

another BP4w driver here in germany send me his sparkmap - runs "ok" but not perfect. especially the low loads.

i´m modified the DIYPNP 99-00 basemap now - runs better in low RPM.

at WOT how much degrees is save with the OEM engine and premium fuel? (AFRs are around 12,5-12,8 now - yes bit too much fuel)? 33 too advanced? (running ~29 degrees now).

i´ve no experince with these ign maps - without a knock tool :/

Only a dyno can tell you that

nobody with a BP4w engine and a knocktool approved n/a map here? :D

Jesus Christ. It's different for every fucking car. You have to...get this...TUNE. Quit being a lazy ass and go read shit. Stop asking stupid fucking questions.

Welches Megasquirt hast du? Ich hab eine Zündung-Tabelle, die relative konservativ ist, aber verschidene Motoren funktionieren anders.

Ein freund von mir, Kai, ist Wekrstattleiter bei COR-Tuning und Chef bei TNT-4-Motorsports und hat den Dynojet-Zugriff. Vielleicht schick ihn einem email oder ruf ihn an. Er wäre Hinweise haben. Leider ist er etwa 3 Stunden von dir (Winnegsen).

Mit Megasquirt, bin ich oft durcheinander, aber tunen ist schwieriger als das Hochladen des Maps.

In his defense it's much harder to find a dyno in Germany that will allow you to tune. Then finding somebody who can reliably hear knock with det-cans is probably even harder.
One more reason to move to the States. I am however curious how our German friends got their stuff street-legal!

Yea TüV is a pain when it comes to anything modified which is why I question if I'll ever be able to bring my car over if I make the jump.

Same here:vash:

A spec miata racer told me that most of them run about 30 degrees at 100kpa for best power but he's running na8. NB8 would possibly be different because of the many differences between the two engines.

Viel gluck.

maybe you shouldn´t read my questions - and do your own shit ;)

other guys can read/talk normally ;) thx for normal answers guys.

shure not every engine is the same - but theres sometimes good advices where it should go ;) i´ve got no intense to buy some knock tools or few hundret euros for some dyno tuning (for this n/a engine) ;)

@psyber_0ptix: its a DIYPNP (MS2extra). and yes its no fun with the TÜV sometimes ;) but they won´t notice the engineswap ^^

@sixshooter: thats what i heard too - around 30 - maybe a bit more/less.

@stefanst: for you US-guys its no problem with the TÜV. bring your tuned cars over here. import-cars got full TÜV paper and the rules for imports are not as strict as for a german car later.

Tough love.

You want good advice? Here's some good advice: Stop asking us to tune your car over the internet for you. You're already close to the detonation limit and now you're asking people to send you a ragged-edge N/A ignition map that you can just slap into your ECU without doing any form of tuning whatsoever. That's how people blow up engines, so have fun with that.

If you don't want to tune your car, use a basemap and don't mess with it. Doing what you are trying to do here (get someone else's ragged-edge-tuned map and use it with zero thought) is a great way to learn what the inside of your crankcase looks like. Stop being stupid before you cost yourself a bunch of money.

He's within 2 hours of both IL Motorsport and SPS Motorsport. Both able to tune on a dyno. There's no excuse here.

Somebody to tune my car here wasn´t in my mind. ;)

its just for fun - but you´re right - i won´t killing my engine. i´m not shure how "good" the basemap from DIY is (the 99-00 one) ;)

theres a lot of "stupid questions" at this forum - a lot of beginners with megasquirts.
answers like " timing too retarded at low loads and too advanced at full load" are helpful :)

btw. ILs good tuning guy doesn´t work anymore there. SPS are very busy (i know jan since about 10 years).

I didn't know you could run a B6 CAS in a BP4W engine. I learned something today.

The DIY Autotune basemap for your engine will be conservative and safe. For maximum power for racing you will need a dyno tune, but for just street driving it is fine. You can easily add a couple of degrees in some places but without a detonation listening device, you will be only guessing where the danger is at wide open throttle. And you will be guessing what timing value generates the most power.

There is a program that uses a smart phone and GPS combined with your data log from the Megasquirt to estimate power. It may be a little bit useful for tuning the wide open throttle sections of your spark map. I can't recall what it is called and I haven't used it. Maybe someone else here can help with that.

Ich bin ein Augsburger. Well, I was for zwei jahre.

If you can find a place where you can make a bunch of highly repeatable 3rd or 4th gear runs on a flat piece of road (preferably both directions to eliminate slight changes in elevation and wind) , you may be able to tune spark with just det-cans on your ears and using Virtual Dyno. That's in theory. I was never able to get any decent result from VD (Virtual Dyno- not the other VD!) when changing spark just a few degrees. The data recorded on an MS log is just too noisy for me.
Sure you can see the difference between 20deg and 10deg, but not between 38 and 34.

OTOH we already know that a boosted stock Miata engine running on any normal fuel is det limited at full boost. So in order to get max power, all you need is det-cans. Listen to the onset of knock and dial it back a few degrees by your personal safety margin.

i love potentially ruining my motor to squeeze another half horsepower out my crank too.