Ive questioned that myself. Probably just the way the board was assembled.. it works so I don't really question it anymore haha

The valve setting is like that on the DIY auto tune basemap. It was like this with my map as well. I changed it & it started idling much better.

I don't have the technical knowledge like you with compensating things. like one thing is the same as the other.Yes I understand there is 10 different ways to do one thing.

If this was me....I would stop compensating. or changing things go to the basics. If you are a practiced tuner....that's different.

save your current map.
start a new project.
insert all the correct numbers in the fuel calculation
set your CAS at 10 deg
set your trigger angle at 10
do the trigger wizzard
start with open loop warm up
change the valve mode to normal
adjust your valve frequency to your correct idle yours is currently set at 480.....seems a little high Mine is at 180 something....
lower your cranking RPM a bit
If you get it going.....and its Ok get the idle stable.
if then you choose to go closed loop. do the Idle valve test

Its going to take you 15 minutes. If its the same as before.....your allowed to sledge me openly.

if it works there are some good articles on setting closed loop idle settings which are very understandable compared to the instructions of MS.

I found getting the idle valve to run correctly made the car run so much better overall......even though it only supposed to affect the idle.

IMHO.....getting the valve correct at the beginning.....will make things so much nicer in the long run with the tune

Theres never been anything wrong with the valve... It's worked fine since day.. uhhh.. 2 when I set it up lol. So youre telling me to completely start over and tune in the settings until I have what is basically the same tune I have now?? How is that supposed to fix my issues? I had this 3 cylinder issue on the basemap before I even made any real changes.

Out of curiosity, does your car have any electrical issues right now? I.e. are the lights inside, headlights, radio, etc all turning on?

No, not that I've noticed at least

that's not the issue. 500rpm is fine -- the lower it is, the harder time youll have in the cold. but 500rpm is probably the upper limit.


from the "oddlog" it's running REALLLY rich when you start it up

That's probably because of my weird ASE.. but idk. If a spark plug was failing to fire and the fuel was not burning, would that cause the gauge to read rich?.. Just a thought. It was definetely NOT a normal startup on the "oddlog" going back to that whole weird 3 cylinder thing

Also just for an update, I have removed the MS from my car so that I can reliably get around, but will happily put it back in and get back to tuning once I have an idea of which settings I need to work with to resolve this intermittent issue, and when I have the time. :facepalm:

I'm still kind of stuck here. What do I do now? Has anyone with more experience than I looked over my tune for anything that might be incorrect? Is it possible I could have some faulty electrical wizardry going on with my board or is that too far of a stretch?

Bump. Can anyone check my tune for an error that could be causing issues? I'd like to get this tuned out

The main things I see in the cold start log you posted:

Are the temperture readings correct? Maybe Indiana's having a really cold May, but make sure those numbers are accurate.
You may also need to adjust the cold cranking pulse widths.
Your battery is nearly dead.
I'd turn off closed loop idle control until you are further along in the tuning process.

The weather has been insane lately. Temps and everything have been correct for the most part. So you think my crank PW is too low? I lowered it to try and sort out the kickback issue I've been mentioning. Also most likely the battery needs replaced, the cold drains it as well which is probably why it is so low. Thanks for the response. Could low battery effect the way my injectors are acting up