so i did too many things at the same time and now my car runs like ****.

90 1.6 stock with a turbo.
i had a great tune b4 i did anything.

i removed the air valve under the tb and the other on the side of the intake manifold, and capped all the coolant lines that used to go through them.

i also removed the heater and capped those coolant lines.


my car is idling at 1700rpm (problem 1)
and my afr gauge in idle read 21:1 (problem 2)

but when i give it gas and drive it, it runs fine and the afrs drop to normal values.

oh and my MAT/IAT reads 60 and stays there. (problem 3)

the recent things i have done are:

added shift lights to MS,
added WI circuit to MS,
removed heater, airvalves under TB and on the IM,
capped coolant lines.

scott suggested i check for vaccum leaks by the block off plates on the IM and TB. (problem 1)

i think i will try running a new wire to the iat sensor to see if that will fix the 60* (problem 3)

 

oh and i forgot that i added a bmw tps recent as well.

 

Why'd you remove the IACV?

 

if you dont leave the IAC, your car wont idle well.

 

The high idle and afr makes me suspect you have a small vacuum leak somewhere.
One that matters @ idle, but goes unnoticeable under load.

 

One of your IAT sensor wires came disconnected. Check where it goes into the MAF connector, and check the GM connector...those back out easily.

 

i dont have AC, thats why i removed all of that.

there is a vaccum leak on those 2 plate i made, so i will remove them and put some rtv on it and check it again tonight.

 

i already had problems with the afm plug so its already wired directly to the ms harness. i will dig into the ecu/harness tonight or tomorrow.

 

I don't have A/C either....and I left mine. I'm failing to see the connection between your idle air control valve and climate control system.

I've yet to look into pulling the IACV...but you do have to change some settings in MS. Someone (maybe kotomile) did it recently.

The TPS doesn't magically fix that either. It should cure your idle droop when coming to a stop...but idle speed is still control by that valve in the IACV.

Fix vacuum leaks first before you go beating your head on everything else.

I mentioned the IAT wires since 60* is some kind of default value MS goes to when it doesn't get any input from the sensor. This will make you run rich.

EDIT: You: Ninja posting, white cat avatar. Me: Silently watching from corner...red shirt.

Please save yourself a headache before digging into MS harness and check the "weatherproof" connector at the sensor. I thought I had done a decent job crimping those...and a wire still came out after 6K miles. They are a true bitch to get back out and fix....but easy to check. Just tug the wires one at a time. If one comes out then pull out dental pics and crimpers.

 

ok the sensor is good.
the connector is good.
the wiring is good, the harness is perfect.
im leading to believe its the MS.

anyone have any ideas on what i can test?

 

I had a similar issue (60 degree constant iat temps and wacky wbo2 readings)... it ended up being a currupt ms map. Id save your current map and reload an older one that you know worked and try that.

 

Problem 3 may rear its' ugly head soon. Unless you made other provisions, you have no water flow to the back of the engine.


"i also removed the heater and capped those coolant lines."

 

i tried uploading 2 diff maps. neither fixed the problem.

didnt you upload the 10g code again? did that fix ur problem?



i drilled a couple holes in the t-stat

 

How well you car runs is inversely proportional to how tall your hood risers are.

 

i lost the nuts!
i've been asking phil to give me a set for a while.


on a more serious note, what the hell is wrong with my ****.

im starting to believe its the MS.

 

Then I assume you did a reroute with the thermostat in the back of the head or in the line going forward from the back of the head to the radiator.

 

On corrupt firmware possibly causing the issue:

Loading a new map won't fix it...you need to reflash. If you are reflashing now it would be a good time to switch to TunerStudio if you've decided to...and build your new project folder over there. Load one of your older maps when you get to the end.

For some odd reason I end up reflashing about once a season...and it cures all my ills.

On hood risers:

Nuts...NUTS??? Go to Home Depot Holmes...saw pics in your other thread...that **** is teh ghey.

 

ok i will flash it today, can someone explain or point me in the direction on how to flash my standalone ms.

i guess i can try tunerstudio.

and i will get some nuts and lower the hood, im tired of everyone telling me my hood is broken...

 

Run easytherm on the .s19 firmware file you've been using and either flash it using easytherm, the MS2 downloader, or by changing the file directory in the .bin executable before running it.

The firmware you load has to be modified with easytherm in order to read your IAT and CLT sensors correctly so set it up accordingly.

If you have an MSPNP, use the files given to you originally or download the current file off their website.

 

PM me your email and I'll forward the reflashing instructions I have from teh Brain.