Check my Tables Please
 

Hey guys im getting ready to start autotunning and want to double check my afr target table. curly sent me a picture of his table and i copyed it, so i figure it will get it close.
Thanks

I would recommend just under stoich at idle - about 14-14.5 works for a more stable idle. 15.5 at 5000rpm is a bit high. Also 15.5 at 70kPa is a bit high. Consider dropping both a bit. Also want to be closer to 13:1 at 100kPa for optimum performance and to keep you from blowing the motor. Numbers in the high kPa look decent.

My setups for my street car.

Speed Density

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330566178

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

MAF
Still fine tuning this one

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/9285/maftable.png

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

The following is copied from a post I made here: https://www.miataturbo.net/mspnp-55/afr-rpms-fluctuate-62513/

"Your AFR target table should be based upon a knowledge of theoretical engine operating conditions and gasoline chemistry. A few relevant AFR's:
1. Stoichiometric is when gasoline and air combust and theoretically produce nothing by water and carbon dioxide byproducts (i.e., no extra oxygen or unburned fuel present and minimum carbon monoxide). This ratio is 14.7:1 (Air:Fuel). NBO2 sensors are designed to switch at this AFR.
2. Maximum torque happens when your mixture burns the most quickly. ~12.5:1 is the target for this.
3. Richening the mixture past 12.5:1 has the effect of slowing combustion. This helps resist detonation.
4. On the lean side, you can go leaner than 14.7:1 and get some economy benefits in parts of the AFR table where it makes sense to do so.
5. In the idle region, going a bit richer than 14.7:1 usually results in best idle quality. You should have seen that during your idle tuning.

So, based upon the above, this is what I'm doing in my AFR table:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327113625

Note that I'm running water injection. If you're not, I recommend you richen the boost region by at least half a point (i.e., the 200kPa row would be 11.5:1)."

yea, he remembered that was his emissions settings lol. i changed idle to 14.5 per the brain. :brain:
And i will change the 100 kpa to, 13. what should the 15.5's you mentioned drop down to.

Am I the only one that thinks 12.5 is too high for boost? Hustler and Savington saw no gains beyond 11.5, given that wouldnt 11.5 be better as you would have a higher saftey margin and same power?

I think it really depends on the load the motor has on it, I'm not gonna start pulling fuel so easily just because I'm near 100kpa at low rpms

oh on a side note how do you change the idle rpm, its sitting at 1300-1500.

I would make the following modifications:
100kpa row/7000:12
100kpa row/6000:12.5
100kpa row/5000: 12.7
100kpa row/4000:13
100kpa row/3000:13
100kpa row/2000:13.5
100kpa row/1000:13.5

Interpolate along Y Axis to your 200kpa targets. They are fine.

It's not too high but I would do what I recommended which is run fatter at 100kpa and blend upwards. That will make things nice and smooth.

Here's my "real" target table.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330581494
I certainly prioritized track reliability over streetability, since it's not a street car. I appreciate the sentiment by stealing my table, but there's probably better ones out there.

My bauce table:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1330606697

God has spoken. Bow down and burn his table. Not literally.

I keep it simple....

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330608634

it migh tbe simple, but I'm sure you don't get the mpgs I do. My timing is fairly advanced in cruise, so I dont need the fuel.

I got 30-31mpg on a long ass 10 hour trip to pick up my hardtop... mainly 2 lane roads, 55mph, going thru some towns here and there. lots of 3rd, 4th gear pulls and some messing around with MS to keep me sane/awake. good enough for me!

hmm 14.7 at 4000-5000+ don't want

when will you be there with a turbo if you're not cruising on the highway in 4th gear?

Pretty much exactly what I was saying snuggles

do not follow the 12.X at 160 kPa at low RPM.

I know you can't boost like that, but I wouldn't put that in the table.

If there is 160kpa of manifold pressure at any RPM, that's the AFR I want with piston speeds that low. This is the "skipped-gear miss shift 120,000 shaft-RPM zone).

What do you think?

after reviewing my current modified version of curlys im going to switch to hustlers, looks a little smoother for a street car, but you didnt leave yourself a big 15.x area for milage did you?

That was adapted from one of Scott's maps I believe, so you can talk to him about the benefits. I would argue that it's smoother, but I'll take a little jerkyness going into cruise if it means I get to save a couple mpgs on the way to the track. Again, not a DD, so your choice may vary.

I spent a few hours on a road trip using the "Instant MPG" function and decided that 15.2 with ~38* of advance made the best output. This matched my shennanigans on the dyno where I made the same output numbers leaner, with more advance in cruise.

There isn't much in regard to "smoothness", drive-ability is achieved in the VE and spark tables. My numbers are based on output and several truths I discovered in the tuning process such as:

• Output increases with AFR values approaching 11.5:1, the compromise is fuel shear and oil longevity
• going leaner than 15.2 provided no MPG increase in my turbo car
• Lean-ness does not mean "faster spool" at low rpm

my plan is to follow curlys advice

For spark yes, follow his afr advice though. That's interesting about the 15.2, makes me wanna play around with mine. ABE! chop chop!

Just for you guys to laugh at me, i forgot the Mspnp base tune has overboost protection set to 1.5psi. doh :noob:

The important thing to remember in cruise is that you're trying to move the LPP based upon spark angle and fuel. The leaner you go, the more advance you need to hit LPP at the right spot in the crank/piston's cycle.

Sometimes I wonder if better fuel economy can be achieved on lower octane fuel because it "lights-off" faster. I also am fairly certain that stronger spark can help fuel economy too.

Don't feel bad, I still can't get Jeff's car to run in boost at all.

overboost protection makes it feel like it falls on its face.

not injecting fuel and cutting spark can do that :)

Look good?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...0&d=1330621409

Sure. You don't need me to tell you this, see how the car drives. It should drive fine with that AFR table, so if it's bucking make spark or enrichment adjustments.

i have no idea how to do this again :noob:
edit: if it doesnt like it i will switch back to the previous table till i can figure out the problem.

alright so stupid question but why is there not much info about launch control? i kinda want to use it, i think.

Advance spark in cruise as you go leaner, or fatter as you retard spark angle in cruise.