Of course it won't start - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


MEGAsquirt A place to collectively sort out this megasquirt gizmo

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 04-25-2011, 05:54 PM   #1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 52
Total Cats: 0
Default Of course it won't start

So I finally finished up my turbo build, and it doesn't start. It cranks and occasionally makes a few pops. I was hoping that someone would be oh so very kind enough to possibly look at my basemap and see if anything looks awry.

My specs are:
'95 1.8l
MS2/v3
460cc injectors
open IAT
No MAF

Thanks a bunch
Attached Files
File Type: msq 2011-04-18_22.14.19.msq (79.2 KB, 74 views)
FartTroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2011, 06:01 PM   #2
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago (Over two miles from Wrigley Field. Fuck the Cubs. Fuck them in their smarmy goat-hole.)
Posts: 26,317
Total Cats: 1,914
Default

Flip the spark plugs leads around so that you're not 180 out of phase on the firing order.

In other words, remove the spark plug wires (at the coil end) from 1 & 4, move the 2 & 3 wires over to that coil, and then re-install the 1 & 4 leads over on the coil that 2 & 3 came off of.


Post a datalog of cranking, in case it's something less obvious, like a bad CAS signal.

I'm not at a PC where I have access to TunerStudio right now, but have you verified your cranking fuel settings against a known-working MSQ to ensure that they're at least approximately within reason?

Also, did this engine ever run previously on the MS, before you tore everything apart and installed the turbo system, or did you just change everything all at the same time?
Joe Perez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2011, 06:30 PM   #3
Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
soviet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,516
Total Cats: 255
Default

No fuel, no spark or no tach signal?
soviet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2011, 06:52 PM   #4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 52
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Flip the spark plugs leads around so that you're not 180 out of phase on the firing order.

Post a datalog of cranking, in case it's something less obvious, like a bad CAS signal.
Well, holy ****. It started. Does that mean the MS is wired incorrectly (brown and yellow wire switched or something, I didn't build it, Reverent did)?

And here's the datalog of when I switched the coil plugs around. You guys are simply brilliant.

Also, my tach wasn't working, not sure if it was related or not.
Attached Files
File Type: msl Cranking.msl (250.2 KB, 75 views)
FartTroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2011, 06:57 PM   #5
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago (Over two miles from Wrigley Field. Fuck the Cubs. Fuck them in their smarmy goat-hole.)
Posts: 26,317
Total Cats: 1,914
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FartTroll View Post
Well, holy ****. It started. Does that mean the MS is wired incorrectly ?
Well, "wired incorrectly" is kind of a strong phrase. It was wired backwards relative to your configuration. I'm not certain about MS2, but on MS1, you can configure the spark outputs either way (eg: such that spark A = 1/4 and B = 2/3, or vise-versa). This is probably the biggest single cause of no-starts on newly installed units.


Quote:
You guys are simply brilliant.
Yes, I know.
Joe Perez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2011, 07:06 PM   #6
Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
soviet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,516
Total Cats: 255
Default

you probably just mixed up the connectors on the coilpack. that has the same effect, right?
soviet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2011, 07:10 PM   #7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 52
Total Cats: 0
Default

Haven't touched the coilpack (well, except for today when I switched them).

So, as it stands right now, should I change the spark output setting that might exist (which I cannot find, I would give you massive e-kudos for a screenshot) or should I leave the coilpacks switched?
FartTroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 07:34 PM   #8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 52
Total Cats: 0
Default

So, in regards to my tach, I set the tachoutput to IAC1 because my miata is a 4pin at the coilpack, and I still can't get the tach to come alive.

Anyone have any suggestions? Please
FartTroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 07:42 PM   #9
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (10)
 
Reverant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Athens, Greece
Posts: 5,440
Total Cats: 198
Default

The tacho circuit is built on the D15 (WLED) output, not on IAC1 (which controls the main fan). I've listed the configuration in the XLS I sent you.

Btw per our communication I thought we had concluded that your car was a early 95, so the tach signal is generated by the coils and not by the MS - which is why the tacho signal is not brought over to the stock harness. You can find the tacho signal on the YELLOW wire on the small DB-15 connector.
Reverant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 07:50 PM   #10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 52
Total Cats: 0
Default

Although I could be mistaken, I'm fairly certain that we concluded that it was the 4pin. I've since then cleared my sent box, and it is unfortunately not in my email either (only received messages).

Regardless, what exactly will I have to do with the yellow wire in order to get my tach working? Also, thanks a bunch for your help. I really do appreciate it.
FartTroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 07:55 PM   #11
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (10)
 
Reverant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Athens, Greece
Posts: 5,440
Total Cats: 198
Default

Yeah, the 4-pin coilpack generates the tacho signal. You can connect the yellow wire to 2I on the connectorboard - that should do it. Also remember to change the tacho output to D15.
Reverant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 08:22 PM   #12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 52
Total Cats: 0
Default



Here? Because there isn't a connector that even plugs into any of the "2's"

Last edited by FartTroll; 04-26-2011 at 08:46 PM.
FartTroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2011, 04:57 AM   #13
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (10)
 
Reverant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Athens, Greece
Posts: 5,440
Total Cats: 198
Default

Sorry, I meant 4I. There should be a black/white wire on the stock harness on that pin.
Reverant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2011, 03:02 PM   #14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 52
Total Cats: 0
Default

It worked great reverant, thanks a ton for your help!
FartTroll is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Project Gemini - Turbo Civic on the Cheap Full_Tilt_Boogie Build Threads 57 07-19-2017 05:11 PM
1994 Spec Miata Race Car SM/SM2/SSM For Sale Quinn Cars for sale/trade 6 10-23-2016 08:58 AM
Time to start learning and play with tuning The Gleas MEGAsquirt 3 10-01-2015 10:30 AM
Leaky Wilwoods mx592 Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 1 10-01-2015 01:45 AM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:29 AM.