7k is a bit lower than mine was, but I used VR type crank sensor from only year they had it, -96.
Changing the sensor to -97 or newer Hall type sensor cured it. Took me a year or more to figure it out.
Hope this helps,

hrk

 

I adjusted the pots as per Brain's post, seemed to have gotten much better. I have not yet updated firmware. Occasionally I will get the battery light for a split second when I hit rev limiter still, but typically that will only happen if I hit red line within the first few minutes of turning the car on (even if the car is already warmed up, like starting it after running in to a store or something). Doesn't do it after I've driven a few miles. No idea what the correlation is there, but it hasn't died yet at rev limit, so I live with it.

 

1.4.1 is a very solid FW. Good for CL idle, good for EBC. Would recommend.

1.5 is big jump, that may have some benefits, including shutting down on oil pressure, I understand; but I'm happy with 1.4.1.

 

Cool. I wouldn't mind a little better CL idle and EBC control. Any risk involved in doing a FW update? Or is it pretty straightfoward, just follow instructions?

 

It is now even more straightforward, as Tuner Studio has been updated so that you can load the new FW directly.

 

Sweet! I haven't even updated TS either... it's all been the same since I installed MS. Got a good tutorial to point me towards to get everything up to date?

 

The TS updates are way more simple than downloading firmware. Pretty sure it just prompts for update and you select yes. Thanks for the response by the way...

 

Update Tuner Studio: With it open, to to "Help/Check For Update" and take it from there. 3.0.22 is the latest version.

To update the FW, download it from TruboKitty.com / Tuning & Tips / "Download MS3 1.4.1 Release Firmware"

Put it where you put such stuff.

Connect to MS, and in TS go to Tools / "Update / Install Firmware". You will want to load ms3.s19, if given a choice (unless you have MSPRO).

THERE ARE OTHER PROTOCOLS TO SAVING AND CREATING A NEW PROJECT, BUT YOU WILL HAVE TO GET THAT FROM SOMEONE ELSE, BECAUSE I KEEP FORGETTING THE BEST WAY.

 

Update: Still haven't done the firmware update, but I think I found the problem...

I got a pressure washer (RYOBI, on sale @ HD right now for $70), and was trying it out last night around the engine bay. I cleaned the front of the engine, and saw my crank sensor clean for the first time in who knows how long. It looked kinda far from the trigger wheel so I checked the gap with a credit card and I could put at least 2 cards in there. It had enough crud on it to look like it was close enough to the trigger wheel... adjusted down to 1 credit card thickness and gave her a spin. Hit the limitter a couple times and no battery light, no flopping tach, no dying.

Andy

 

Great. Today I looked through this whole thread, and I'm embarrassed to say in post 28 that could not remember what Scott posted in post 17.