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First drags of the season on friday - need opinions
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So the first drags of the season are on friday night, and I plan on running the car. Been tuning for a couple weeks (manually, without MLV) and the car seems to run pretty good. I do have a few issues that I will list below, but I am posting my MSQ and a datalog (if it'll do any good) to get some opinions or suggestions on things that may need some changing before friday.
I do not trust myself to change the spark settings yet, so I am still running the same map that Braineack sent with the MS when I bought it. As far as I can tell, it's been doing ok. Car is currently running ~11psi wastegate pressure, although I will be backing that down to around 8psi and using a manual boost controller to get it up to 12psi. AFR's have been in the low 11's at redline. Plugs look great, nice and clean. Current issues: - Car still has a slight misfire at idle. Not sure if some settings are off, or if the injectors need to be cleaned. Either way, it doesn't really bother me. - When pushing the clutch in to come to a stop, the idle drops a little faster than I would like to below idle speed, then raises back up to settle at ~950. How can I get this to drop slower? - Launch control! Best way to get it to work? Thanks guys! |
-Misfire at idle is probably just AFR tuning. It's tough to get right.
-Don't know on the idle settings, someone here will, though. -LC/FFS? Do you have a 5-speed? Don't. |
The Launch control is something that I will only use at the track, and do not plan on dumping the clutch when it's time to go. No plans on using flat shift, doesn't appeal to me.
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I assume you've at least got a Torsen?
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Nope. :) Working on that. Just an open from a '97 for now. Searching for a bare torsen lsd to install into what I already have.
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Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 396115)
Nope. :) Working on that. Just an open from a '97 for now. Searching for a bare torsen lsd to install into what I already have.
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With how much modification? I will assume that I need new halfshafts and a certain driveshaft.
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Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 396280)
With how much modification? I will assume that I need new halfshafts and a certain driveshaft.
If you are already running the 97 open differential, you have already made 95% of the modifications. Find the proper RX7 LSD, remove the center section of your 97 open diff. remove the ring carrier, then remove the pinion gear from the carrier. Install the ring gear on the LSD install the LSD into the center section (need to set proper backlash, and check pinion depth). Reinstall the center section into the differential housing (change halve shaft seals). Reinstall shafts fill with oil with friction additives. |
I've been told it's not really beneficial for me to upgrade to the non-turbo differential. I'm just going to keep what I have for now. If it explodes, it explodes. Not my only car, and I have access to numerous parts. So it's not that big of a deal.
Anyway, anyone want to help with the MS stuff? |
Whoever told you that upgrading to the Rx7 LSD wouldn't be beneficial is an imbecile.
LC is easy - do a search. ApexOnYou's settings is what I use. |
RX-7 LSD is win. No one here is saying your open diff will explode (it won't), just that the rx-7 lsd will give you better performance in racing. I just got an rx-7 lsd and it's great off the line and out of corners. And I'm still n/a!
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Ah....looks like I'm on my own here. Thanks anyways guys.
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So none of the runs at the track went well. Car was faster last year with a smaller turbo and a voodoo box. :laugh: Needs some serious tuning, so hopefully I can get the car on the dyno at work this week and get it tuned. I have the fuel about right, but the spark map needs help that I can't give it. :noob:
Here's a datalog I did during my last run. If anyone wants to take a quick look and point out anything you see is weird or not cool, that would be great. Oh, and don't pay any attention to the WB02 reading in MLV, it's way off. I still need to relocate the ground for the WB. |
Drag passes without a wideband, eh?
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You're only making 3psi at 5000rpm and 9psi at redline. What BC do you run? You need to tune TP as you don't hit 100% anywhere. What WBO2 is in there? You accel enrich also seems untuned. Basicaly you're running an untuned car at the drags... nice!
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GT, you have the greatest tuning tool known to man (well, atleast men that drive Miatas) and you're not even using it to 1/8th of it's potential. This is stuff you CAN do by yourself. Trust me, I'm supernoob too.
1. Fix the above...boost control, wideband, TPS and accel enrichments. This will seriously improve driveability, and power. 2. I don't think you're problems should be much in the department of spark. If you're running the map Scott sent with the unit, you're pretty good. Sure you can eak out another 20hp on a dyno, but mine pulls like a banshee with that map. Of course I see 10psi at 3000rpm and hold it to redline.... 3. Fuel is most definitely a problem. Without a functioning wideband, you can't filter your VE table through MLV effectively. This is what the majority of a good base tune is...and should definitely be done thoroughly before hitting a dyno. If you can count how many datalogs you've run and filtered, you've still got work to do. The last one I ran was a 25 minute set of twisties that got my maximum cell change down to 4. You should be able to get under 5 for cell changes on consecutive runs. You may see a greater change day to day, so just pick a day you like with weather you normally drive in and tune away. 4. If you get all this straightened out, you CAN tune spark. I'm about to do this the hustler way. Build det cans, drive up hill with "friend" :giggle: in passenger seat...profit. Good luck. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 397484)
Drag passes without a wideband, eh?
Originally Posted by Spookyfish
(Post 397488)
What BC do you run? You need to tune TP as you don't hit 100% anywhere. What WBO2 is in there? You accel enrich also seems untuned. Basicaly you're running an untuned car at the drags... nice!
Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 397510)
This is stuff you CAN do by yourself. Trust me, I'm supernoob too.
1. Fix the above...boost control, wideband, TPS and accel enrichments. This will seriously improve driveability, and power. 2. I don't think you're problems should be much in the department of spark. If you're running the map Scott sent with the unit, you're pretty good. Sure you can eak out another 20hp on a dyno, but mine pulls like a banshee with that map. Of course I see 10psi at 3000rpm and hold it to redline.... 3. Fuel is most definitely a problem. Without a functioning wideband, you can't filter your VE table through MLV effectively. This is what the majority of a good base tune is...and should definitely be done thoroughly before hitting a dyno. If you can count how many datalogs you've run and filtered, you've still got work to do. The last one I ran was a 25 minute set of twisties that got my maximum cell change down to 4. You should be able to get under 5 for cell changes on consecutive runs. You may see a greater change day to day, so just pick a day you like with weather you normally drive in and tune away. Good luck. |
MLV tuning is 100% better and faster than by hand. Get the PLX to work with your MS or get a WBO2 that will work and thus log with MS. Then learn to use MLV. Also read the MS manuals on how to calibrate your TP. Oh and pop the hood, maybe your wastegate is just loose.
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I'm under the hood at least twice a day, the WG is fine. We have had issues with the WG actuator that I am using, so I may switch that. I plan on re-grounding the WB today.
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GT3
Sorry, would have been more specific, but have been at work all morning. WIDEBAND: I'm not familiar with the PLX, but with the LC-1 you first setup the WBO2 controller to give your linear output based on the controller lambda values. An example is a 0-5V output for corresponding 10-20AFR values. This means you have about 2.35V going into the MS for a stoichiometric 14.7 air/fuel ratio. Fix this first, and be very very happy, because MegaLog Viewer is THE ONLY WAY TO GO with regard to a street tune on fuel. Leave the hand smoothing for later, or for the load-dyno operator. TPS: Check the drop down menus. Sorry, am at work now, but there is a calibrate option on one of them that is hella easy to use. I could talk you through this, but didn't have time to put my BMW unit on this week. If you don't have it done by Tuesday, PM me, as I should have it figured out. If you search there is a write-up on this. ACCEL ENRICH: These are in the basic settings, and you have the option of "map dot" or "tps dot". Since you're running tps, use the second option, and tune the (3) little fields that are there. These aren't a function of req-fuel, so if you haven't changed them since you put in the bigger injectors, you REALLY need to do so. I just went in and cut all the numbers in half (since 460=2x230) and this fixed my backfiring and decel popping issues. I'm not sure if you'll have to start from scratch for TPS dot, but it's easy to tune, just pick some nice numbers, say 3-5-7, and go down 2, then up 2, for each, and see which direction is getting you closer. BOOST CONTROL: Sorry, can't help you here. I just know a lot of folks have trouble with EBC and MS. You may wanna go wastegate until you sort out the more basic problems. I imagine this will only compound issues right now, and make it harder to diagnose symptoms. When I'm back in front of my own PC I'll try and get you some screen shots, but you should still have my .msq from the other thread (please don't run it) if you want to check your spark table. I've changed just about everything else since then, but have not TOUCHED that spark table, and I can't say my car is slow. I made a G35 look like the Buick it is last night. |
LOL @ buick comment.
Maybe I should have been more specific as far was what I have. Buying the MS from Brain, I assumed that since I told him what injectors I had planned on using, that he was setting the base tune up for that. (including accel enrich settings) I did the "calibrate tps" thing more than a few times. What should the numbers be? Just adjust the TPS on the throttle body until I get the numbers that I am looking for? Right now they are at 190 something and 30 or 40 something. I would have do double check. This is kind of frustrating because I asked people to look at my shit earlier in the week, to let me know what I should do BEFORE I went to the drags, never got much help, then they start bashing me for running an untuned car. Thanks for all of the help gospeed. This is what these forums are for. As far as the spark table goes, I haven't touched it. Same table that brain sent with the MS. |
I wouldn't expect any sort of pre-tuning to be done by the ECU builder.
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WB re-grounded...... still doesn't work.
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You need to configure the WBO2 output that goes to MS to something that MS understands using the supplied cable and software.
Then then tell MS what sort of input it can expect. Yes that means understanding what mfCfg/settings.ini means, specifically LAMBDA_SENSOR to: Code:
# set INNOVATE_0_5_LINEAR "Innovate, PLX 0-5V 10-20:1 AFR" |
That is exactly what I set it to before I even started the car for the first time.
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Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 397602)
This is kind of frustrating because I asked people to look at my shit earlier in the week, to let me know what I should do BEFORE I went to the drags, never got much help, then they start bashing me for running an untuned car. Thanks for all of the help gospeed. This is what these forums are for. |
I was talking about the MSQ.
Edit: and I haven't touched any settings yet. Upon further reading tonight, and a WG actuator change, I'll attempt to mess with the accel stuff. |
Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 397602)
Buying the MS from Brain, I assumed that since I told him what injectors I had planned on using, that he was setting the base tune up for that. (including accel enrich settings)
It should have been in the neighborhood, but since EVERY car is different, even with similar setups, you still have to tune it. Accel enrichments can be done with "butt" tuning. Your VE tables really, really needs some datalogs. The base map will barely make you run...your car is unique, this is why you built it. Stock ECUs only work because the cars are all made exactly the same. No one can program an ECU for a car sight unseen. You (or a dyno operator you pay) has to do this. If you get the WBO2 working, this is EASY, and better yet, it WORKS.
Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 397602)
I did the "calibrate tps" thing more than a few times. What should the numbers be? Just adjust the TPS on the throttle body until I get the numbers that I am looking for? Right now they are at 190 something and 30 or 40 something. I would have do double check.
Don't know what to tell you about frustration, you have to help us help you. We're not magicians, and I know very few mechanics that can diagnose a problem over the phone. Sounds like your spark table should still be good then. A really bad fuel table can feel like laggy spark though. Since it's the one that Scott gave you: leave it until you either A.) start playing with det cans or B.) take it to a dyno. |
Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 398347)
If you get the WBO2 working, this is EASY, and better yet, it WORKS.
Don't know what to tell you about frustration, you have to help us help you. We're not magicians, and I know very few mechanics that can diagnose a problem over the phone. A.) start playing with det cans or B.) take it to a dyno. YOU have been the best help. I was talking about everyone else. Dyno tuning coming next week hopefully. Going to "try" to fix some things myself this week and do some highway cruise tuning in preparation for a small road trip this weekend. Like I stated earlier, I learn best by having people visually show me how to do things. Having to ask for help, and read countless threads from searches helps me very little. |
Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 397602)
This is kind of frustrating because I asked people to look at my shit earlier in the week, to let me know what I should do BEFORE I went to the drags, never got much help, then they start bashing me for running an untuned car. Thanks for all of the help gospeed. This is what these forums are for.
As far as the spark table goes, I haven't touched it. Same table that brain sent with the MS. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 398357)
oh man, I have nothing better to do with my time than handle up on your lightwork when you can't post a working log of your bullshit. Please, fucking kill yourself and stop crying like a ------ on this board. Why don't you go down to your mom's basement and rub one out, again, for the 5th time today, because its no secret that you will never be man enough to come out of the closet and rim a trucker. Sorry to hear that your Daddy never loved you.
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Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 398383)
Fuck you man. Nobody asked you to come in here and post YOUR bullshit. GTFO of my thread.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 398397)
Don't fucking type to me like that on this forum. I have a lot of friends in high places who just love to come down hard on handball-bottoms like yourself. You need to be a little more careful who you call names otherwise I might have to let my moderator friends know what a fag you are, and you definitely don't want that shit to happen if you want to continue posting on this forum.
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Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 398350)
Like I stated earlier, I learn best by having people visually show me how to do things. Having to ask for help, and read countless threads from searches helps me very little.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 398417)
HELP ME NOW! TUNE MY CAR NOW!!! WAH, WAH, I'M A BABY.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 398417)
I learn best by getting everyone on the internet to do it for me because I'm too lazy to read and learn shit myself. HELP ME NOW! TUNE MY CAR NOW!!! WAH, WAH, I'M A BABY.
It would be nice if we could get a little beyond the "go search asshole" mentality and start helping people, just a little bit. Even if that involves some of the more experienced people helping out a bit and posting a link to a thread or telling the poster what terms to use while doing a search or a username to look for in the results. The last few times I've done any searching on this forum I came to a few conclusions. First, the search function on this forum sucks. Second, half the posts I did find, all were telling the OP to just fucking search. :2cents: |
Originally Posted by johndoe
(Post 398419)
Come on now. You don't want to go there. You are the whiniest bitch on the interwebs and you know it.:makeout:
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Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 398408)
What gives you the right to talk to ME like you did? Just because I'm a noob, doesn't give you the fucking right to talk shit about me in the first place. You have nothing to contribute to this thread, so go somewhere else.
You're right. You'd have to do something to deserve the chest-shit you're about to recieve. Something like.. 1. Posting a thread where you post an MSQ that gives us absolutely no info about your tune, and a datalog without an AFR curve, and then complaining when nobody helps you 2. Insulting (with the exception of one person) everyone on this forum for not helping you 3. Repeated posting unfathomably retarded shit on other forums. Don't think anyone here has forgotten that you literally said "The BEGi-S kit is not complete and you will need more parts to make it run". How FM justifies your employment is beyond me. You're a tool and you should get the fuck off this forum. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 398451)
1. Posting a thread where you post an MSQ that gives us absolutely no info about your tune, and a datalog without an AFR curve, and then complaining when nobody helps you
2. Insulting (with the exception of one person) everyone on this forum for not helping you 3. Repeated posting unfathomably retarded shit on other forums. Don't think anyone here has forgotten that you literally said "The BEGi-S kit is not complete and you will need more parts to make it run". How FM justifies your employment is beyond me. You're a tool and you should get the fuck off this forum. 1. How did my MSQ give no info? If something looks way off, tell me. That's all I was asking for. 2. I didn't insult anyone. I simply said that nobody else was helping...which was true. 3. what retarted shit? Got proof? FM has nothing to do with this thread, or how I act on the forums. Last I checked, I don't have a "Sponsor" tag under my user name, therefor I represent nobody but myself. Leave them out of it. I have searched for answers to MANY of my questions before I posted. As JayL said, the search function on this forum sucks just like any other forum. Finding shit that is usable is rare, and when I do find what I am looking for it has helped a ton. Kind wish I had kept my last car. Nissan crowd > Miata crowd. |
MX-5 Miata Forum - Turbo help please - R1600Turbo = GT3man2001
I'm not even going to bother with further thuggery or big red text or a two-paragraph sexually illicit story involving tweety-bird floormats and masturbation. That link says more than I ever could about your character and intelligence. |
Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 398457)
Kind wish I had kept my last car. Nissan crowd > Miata crowd.
searching "idle" in titles gave this on the first half of the page: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t32577/ there's also this gem which you would already know if you read and didn't expect everyone to do it for you:
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 340853)
Idle Control valves
As long as the MS ECU has been upgraded internally (see the main MSnS Extra Website) with a high powered transitor in place of the standard idle transistor it can control most idle valves as long as they are NOT stepper motors (these have 4 wires/connectors) Most 2 or 3 wire valves (e.g. Bosch 0280 140 505) Idle control can be used in B&G on/off, Warm up, or Closed-Loop Modes. B&G on/off simply opens or closes a valve to provide additional air below a temperature threshold Warm up mode linearly varies the duty cycle of a 2 or 3 wire solenoid actuated valve to provide additional air during cold startup, while gradually scaling down the duty cycle until the engine is warm. Closed-loop mode attempts to keep the engine idling at a set rpm by using PWM with a 2 wire solenoid actuated valve, and actively varying the duty cycle to maintain rpm. Warmup Settings: Lower temp idle frequency is the higher duty cycle required to start and run a cold engine. (115 is a good starting point) Upper temp idle frequency is the duty cycle the idle valve will be scaled down to as the engine warms up. ( try zero here) These two values are linearly interpolated from one to the other starting from the lower engine temp to the higher engine temp (fast idle temp, and slow idle temp.) Idle valve frequency This is generally something most people will not need to mess with, however, different idle valves are designed to work best at specific operational frequencies. Note that the Frequency of actuation is 1000 / this value (255 is a good starting point) Please Note: true DUTY CYCLE% = Lower or Upper dc * 100 / Idle Valve Frequency value example Freq value - 200 = 50 hz operation, a DC value of 80 = 80*100/200 = 40% true duty cycle While most valves operate at 100 hertz, some older style 2-wire valves will work better at frequencies as low as 39 hertz. There is an inverse relationship between frequency of operation and control precision because of the algorithm Used to control the PWM output. Lower frequencies have more steps between dc values. 100hz operation has 100 steps and therefore has 1% control steps. 50hz operation has 200 steps and has 0.5% duty cycle steps and that is why the duty cycle values put into MT need to be double the true DC% value. Some valves may emit a buzzing sound which can be eliminated by increasing the frequency above 100 hertz. There is a formula for modifying the idle valve frequency. The formula is '10000/desired frequency = x where x is is the variable you input in megatune. For example '100' would be 100 hertz, and '50' would be 200 hertz Closed Loop Settings: This is fairly experimental code, but with careful manipulation of variables it should be possible to produce a stable idle. Cranking (dc) is the duty cycle required at cranking. (try Zero here) Minimum (dc) is the duty cycle slightly lower than a warm idle dc when regulated. Closed (dc) is the duty cycle where the valve closes. The values here follow the rule above and are related to the frequency selected and are not true DC except when the idlefreq values is 100. Some valves are normally closed (use 0 here) others require a certain DC to clsoe and will regulate above this value. Bosch 2 wire valves are normally open, close at 25% and regulate at about 40%. Fast Idle RPM is the idle target for the engine at, or below the fast idle temperature. Slow Idle RPM is the idle target for the engine at, or above the slow idle temperature (fully warmed up). The two RPM set points are linearly interpolated between the two temperatures to provide a smooth transition during warmup TPS Threshold is the point above which the idle valve closes in ADC (as it is no longer needed). Idle Activation (rpm) is 'how many rpm' above idle that the idle valve returns to operation after the throttle has been opened and closed again. This follows the idle speed as it is interpolated from Fast Idle RPM to Slow Idle RPM Dashpot Settle is the wait time required after a dashpot event for the rpms to settle below the idle activation point. After a dashpot it is possible that rpms will overshoot the activation point and this is the time required to settle below activation point. Dashpot Adder (dc) is the dashpot duty cycle added to the last controlled idle duty cycle which allows it to recover to a nice idle with minimal overshoot. These values should be low: 1-5 DC Deadband range This is a range of rpm that you do not want it to bother changing duty cycle to regulate idle. 30 to 50 rpm seems to be good here try smaller values unitl it seems stable. Adaptive idle control This controls the time between idle control events. The goal is to have a Slow Recovery which is tuned to the engine's time constant at idle. You do not want it to hunt nor have falling idle speed. The Fast Recovery is how fast you want it to recover to a decent idle when the idle speed is higher or lower than the target this can be tuned for startup and to see what is needed to recover if idle speed drops significantly below target for example when the A/C or electric fans kick on and the idle drops below target. The rpm values determine the curve. The lower value should be close to the dead band value and the upper one should be a bit further away, maybe 100 or 200 rpm the next 2 values are time constants needed for startup and idle valve closure Closure speed controls the speed at which the idle valve closes. It is the time step delay between each as it steps to a closed dc value Startup delay is a wait time right after the engine is started that the system stabilizes before it attempts to find an idle speed :) https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t10093/ or you can go here MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com You're more lazy than I am, and that's fucking amazing. Do you want someone to drive out to you house and do it for you or is this enough? Oh, and since you can't take the heat, get the fuck out of our crematory because fuck you. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 398473)
sexually illicit story involving tweety-bird floormats
:bowrofl: That link was very excellent proof, and very telling. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 398473)
I'm not even going to bother with further thuggery or big red text or a two-paragraph sexually illicit story involving tweety-bird floormats and masturbation. That link says more than I ever could about your character and intelligence.
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 398476)
searching "idle" in titles gave this on the first half of the page:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t32577/ there's also this gem which you would already know if you read and didn't expect everyone to do it for you: You didn't give any detail in your launch control question so i can't find the answer to your mystery question. However, you can try this: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t10093/ or you can go here MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com You're more lazy than I am, and that's fucking amazing. Do you want someone to drive out to you house and do it for you or is this enough? Oh, and since you can't take the heat, get the fuck out of our crematory because fuck you. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 398473)
MX-5 Miata Forum - Turbo help please - R1600Turbo = GT3man2001
I'm not even going to bother with further thuggery or big red text or a two-paragraph sexually illicit story involving tweety-bird floormats and masturbation. That link says more than I ever could about your character and intelligence. Wow, just wow. After seeing how hard we are on newb (and the newbish), I've been trying to go out of my way to make this forum helpful to those that maybe aren't the best at seeking help. I guess "no good deed goes unpunished" applies here.
Originally Posted by R1600Turbo
I think that has done it. I'm done here. Just done. All this site is, is a bunch of younger guys that like to argue with one another. So I guess when you're done HERE we'll see the above quoted from GT3man2001? EDIT: I won't try and judge you for what you did on my other favorite miata forum, but try not to dig the same hole over here if you seek help -you've started two "I've tried everything and don't know anymore...plz help" threads in as many weeks-. The best way to RECEIVE help is to clarify and follow advice, find out how to enact it (less handholding eg. "show me"), and be less argumentative with the locals. |
Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 398487)
Since nobody helped on this, I searched a bit more and already found the answer. Thanks anyway.
Whether you think these guys are trying to help you or not, you found the answer by doing what they wanted you to do all along. Kind of funny how that works. |
Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 398487)
I can take the heat, and I can give it right back. But then people get ban happy. This thread has gone to shit....Sav please close it down. I'll figure this shit out on my own.
You should probably quit running your mouth like a bitch before you get fired. That's genuine advice you should take to heart. You're obviously 17-years old and if I were a punkass mall-rat teenager again, working in an awesome shop I'd want someone wise beyond my years to clue me in so I could continue working in a bad ass shop. I'd give you some tips with the finer sex so you could break out of "virgin hell," but your attitude sucks so you have to deal with the abrasions on your baby-penis for a few more years until you discover the joys of GHB and date-rape because its your only chance. |
Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 398488)
So I guess when you're done HERE we'll see the above quoted from GT3man2001?
-you've started two "I've tried everything and don't know anymore...plz help" threads in as many weeks-. be less argumentative with the locals. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 398490)
You cried like a ------ on the last page, and now you're ordering around the men on this forum? You have no chance of figuring this simple stuff on your own.
You should probably quit running your mouth like a bitch before you get fired. That's genuine advice you should take to heart. You're obviously 17-years old and if I were a punkass mall-rat teenager again, working in an awesome shop I'd want someone wise beyond my years to clue me in so I could continue working in a bad ass shop. I'd give you some tips with the finer sex so you could break out of "virgin hell," but your attitude sucks so you have to deal with the abrasions on your baby-penis for a few more years until you discover the joys of GHB and date-rape because its your only chance. |
Savington isn't a mod here.. (though he's probably first in line)
:inout: |
Originally Posted by kotomile
(Post 398496)
Savington isn't a mod here.. (though he's probably first in line)
:inout: |
Originally Posted by kotomile
(Post 398496)
Savington isn't a mod here.. (though he's probably first in line)
:inout: Honestly OP, the part that got a rise out of me is that you work for FM. I would like to think that the folks that are a part of the development and manufacture of their kits are capable of FINDING the answers. It's okay to have questions though, that's why we're here, but don't get all uppity when you don't get sunshine and the exact answer in the form you wanted. You can say all day hustler started it...but if you can't survive someone shitting on your thread a little, you probably shouldn't start threads here. BACK ON TOPIC: Your first order of business is to fix your WBO2. I've already said this, the response was basically "I've done everything right, I don't know what to doez!!11!!" (ignore condescending tone here). Keep reading, figure it out, come back. You basically can't do shit until you have that piece of your setup at 100%. |
Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 398499)
Honestly OP, the part that got a rise out of me is that you work for FM. I would like to think that the folks that are a part of the development and manufacture of their kits are capable of FINDING the answers.
Your first order of business is to fix your WBO2. |
Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 398500)
There's nothing wrong with the kit. FM does not do MS, therefor when it comes to that I am basically on my own. (except for this forum)
I don't remember saying anything about the kit. I'm sure FM makes FINE kit, I just don't have the coin. I was saying in a subtle way that FM shop guys should be a little smarter and more motivated than the average forum member.
Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 398500)
I'm going to go through EVERYTHING tomorrow that deals with the WB. I tried a different ground tonight and nothing has changed. PLX recommends putting some isolator over the 0-5V wire to the MS to help with interference. Wondering if that has something to do with it... I don't think shielding a wire is going to fix what I saw in your datalog. EDIT: This isn't a MS thing, everything looks fine in your configurator etc. This means pulling out that stereo cable, and checking the tabs in LM Programmer. |
Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 398501)
if you have two outputs like the LC-1, then you can have good values showing on gauge, and still be sending crap to MS.
I don't think shielding a wire is going to fix what I saw in your datalog. EDIT: This isn't a MS thing, everything looks fine in your configurator etc. This means pulling out that stereo cable, and checking the tabs in LM Programmer. LM Programmer? |
Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 398503)
LM Programmer?
Did your wideband not come with a CD or anything? If you just slapped it in, it's probably not working right. You need to calibrate it, although it may work alright out of the box. The controller however is usually setup to put AFR numbers to the gauge, but you have to specify the second output so that it gives nice numbers to MS. |
Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 398504)
Nm, sorry, it's the program used to setup the outputs on the Innovative products.
Did your wideband not come with a CD or anything? If you just slapped it in, it's probably not working right. You need to calibrate it, although it may work alright out of the box. The controller however is usually setup to put AFR numbers to the gauge, but you have to specify the second output so that it gives nice numbers to MS. |
Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 398506)
You know honestly, I can't remember. Thanks for asking though, I just put an email through to PLX to see if it should have and how much a new one will cost.
...Get the PLX to work with your MS or get a WBO2 that will work and thus log with MS... |
Originally Posted by GT3man2001
(Post 398487)
But then people get ban happy. |
The guy is running an MBC and not making boost properly. Before he fixes the wideband issue, he should fix his boost leak as that will cause WB issues all by itself.
Put a boost pressure tester in your intake and test for leaks. FM has gotta have one or many of those in the shop. Or set up your MBC correctly. Frank |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 398449)
Its an art. However, you win at taking the internet seriously.
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