Flyin Miata Spark and Fuel Tables
 

I wanted to make sure that everyone knows that the Flyin Miata spark and fuel tables are for sale by Flyin Miata for $65. Talk to Jeremy. You will need to download the Hydra Nemesis software - for free - to view the maps and transfer the settings to your MS. For $65, it's worth it. Please see my story below:

Like many others before me, I thought $2k for the FMII injectors and Hydra Nemesis was a bit much so I bought the FMII hardware and decided to setup a DIYPNP for about $1k in savings. I got some great advice and the whole build went fairly well, but took about 4 months total. I bought a knocksense unit and lazily never configured it. I also never had the car tuned by a professional. Dumbly, I used the spark map that "everybody" was using and swears by on this forum. I tuned my AFRs to what I still believe to be very good values, but spark was not set to match. I got comfortable with my tune and turned the boost up from 7psi to 12psi and 100mi later - boom. Well, not quite. I saw black smoke pouring out of the exhaust at idle. The piston in cylinder number four was cracked so badly, it actually had 0psi of compression when I tested it! There was so much blowby, I had as much oil in my IC pipes as in the pan. The piston was almost cracked through on the outer wall, which would have spelled total failure in a few more miles. So, the point I want to make is this. Yes I saved a thousand dollars by going MS over Hydra, but I wouldn't do it again. Yes, it was nice to say I'd tuned the whole damn thing myself, but I wouldn't do it again. Yes, it was easy to think I didn't have any detonation issues with a "proven" spark map and a well-tuned fuel map, but I won't think that again. My recommendation - spend the extra $1k if you've got it for the Nemesis, even if you're a smart guy and really want to prove it. If you don't have the extra $$, take your car to a professional especially for spark tuning and run basic spark until you get there. It's worth the money. Use your knock sensor if you've got one - don't be lazy. Last, at least spend the $65 to check your spark (possibly fuel, depending on fuel equation) against the professional tune of Flyin Miata - especially if you've bought the FMII hardware or similar hardware. I'm spending the $1k I saved to rebuild my bottom end now and it's such a pain in the ass. While MS can be neat, and make you feel really smart, F it - I'll buy the whole damn setup next time. Don't be stupid like me the first time around.

You did not fail because you did not bend over for a hydra. You failed because you did not have the car properly tuned.

Cool story bro montana.

Horses for courses...

......so, because you couldn't get a reliable tune for your MS, we should all suck it up and buy a $2k Hydra.
Right. Bullshit.

Tons of people here successfully run MS. It is a well known fact on this forum that you can't just throw a random spark map on your car and turn up the boost and expect good results.

I feel like I'm being trolled.

Lrn2tuning

$65 for a random base map? Seems legit

I love FM. I'm seriously a big fan and am proud to wear their stuff.

But this is pretty obvious trolling built around the nugget of information that is "FM is selling their maps."

One fuel and spark table won't be the same on every other miata out there, so I'm calling BS to this $65 RIP OFF.

I trust no one but me at this point with my tuning. MS/VEanalyze with my electronic detcans = win.

Why not post up this magic table??? Change a couple cells and it is no longer an FM map.

Why didn't you just run the free diyautotune base map?

Also, the magic map that "everyone" runs is typically used as a starting point for tuning.

Inexperience killed the motor.

If you don't know how to tune, you can still save 1k by running the above mentioned base map until you trust and understand what you or someone else is doing to your car.

Agreed, Don't get hung up on specific timing numbers. IF I think I hear det, I pull timing plain and simple, and I try to be a little conservative with my afr. Just a little though, I'm not a pussy.

And the second time around too? Your failure was not that you bought a sub par ecu... it's that you loaded some random tune on it. And it sounds like you're doing *again*. You need to take it to a dyno and have it professionally tuned.

FM spark maps -

Fr0m the LINK ('90-97):

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...1/fmtiming.jpg

Fr0m the Hyrda ('01):

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...s_hyrda_01.jpg

So we must send Brain some kash now?

do it! I need it.

I don't blame them for selling the spark and fuel tables, making a really good table can take a little time. There are varying degrees of quality from "professional tuners". My first two tunes were done by professionals and the car bucked, shot fire, and ran so rich the WB rad full lean because it was sooooo rich. I balked at $1000 for a tune a few years ago, but I'm starting to realize that if the tuner is going to take the car for a few days, put it on the dyno for an hour, then road tune for a couple days, then it's probably worth the $1000. It takes a lot of time to make a car drive as well as mine and it's not something that can be done in 1-hour or even 4-hours on a dyno.

I've recently decided that I'm not going to tune for free anymore, if you need a tune and want me to do it, bring over a couple NT-01's in 225/45/15.

Your inability to follow simple instructions and tune the car doesn't make MS any less viable, it means you can't follow directions or didn't want to. You're still the guy who imported a spark table and didn't feel it out and save yourself a lot of money.

When I bought my MSpnp, I knew absolutely nothing, I'd never tried this kind of thing before. Sure, it took a few months, but I got it right, I've raced the car for years now and never had a problem. When it comes down to it you still have an email tune and don't know what you're missing.

fwiw, they arent just selling tables for $65...there's more to it.

Load this spark table up:
http://i40.tinypic.com/jj9076.jpg
This is my conservative, "Hang the tach at 6500rpm in 6th at 100*f at TWS" spark table. You should run it.

:facepalm:


I just reread the OP...so much fail.

It reminds me of the guys I try to help out who can't follow the directions on grounding the LC-1.
"How is the LC-1 grounded?"
"The sensor ground is on the sheet metal, heater is on the block" or "both are tied together at the sensor, then one fat wire to the block, why does it matter?"
"Because it's not a light bulb, it's a precision instrument and Innovate made the wires long and wrote specific directions telling you to not do what you did".
"But it's all wires and it works just fine on my boost gauge!!!11oneone"

I'm on it. I'll be running all day long at 230 kpa with my 9.0:1 motor. It's the new gold standard, everyone is doing it.

I'll take rear facing video so people can watch the engine parts and oil I leave on the road.

OP's post should have read:

"Don't be stupid like me. You read time and time again on mt.net to not run random spark tables without knowing what you are doing, and the setup of the car it cam from. I didn't listen, and this is what happened :facepalm:........"

$65 for something you WILL have to tweak for your own car :loser:

Just Trolling this site will get you dozens of freebies that you WILL need to tweak :laugh:

If it was $65 for the maps from the OEM ECU's then maybe.

Just about everyone here is a hobbyist, most people will never tweak until they ride in my car, regarded by The Lord as the best tuned car on Earth. I meat people with shitty tunes all the time, we're talking little stuff that makes them control throttle inputs, bad MPG, and how many Evo's shoot fire?

I'll have to trust you on bragging rights, it's a f'ing long way for me to go for a joyride :laugh:
I'm playing with AFR Table 1 at the moment (:noob:), tweaking a base map to more my style of driving. i.e cruising between 2000 and 4500 rpm. Looking at Brains and others for inspiration.:idea:

Attachment 187664



Attachment 187665

Yeah, bored.

guise if i run 40 degrees in all cells is dat safe?

The real fine tuning is in the IAT/CLT curves and TPDdot and MAPdot. That's where the hard work really pays off, TunerStudio makes it easier. Anyone can tune a car in 2-hours for spark and fuel from garbage tables, it's the last few tweaks in drivability that are the hard work.

I was joking about my car being the best-tuned car on Earth. Well, it might be, actually. When it hits target AFR when stomping the loud pedal like a monkey, at any RPM, get 28mpg with the 300lb tire trailer, and you can hang the tach at 6500rpm in 6th at the local roval in the 100*f heat and see 11.5:1 on the gauge, you know you're doing something right. I'm proud of that tune, I worked really hard on it.

Sounds like you got it nicely balanced, well done :bigtu:

OP you need to educate yourself. I paid way too much money for tuning before I learned how to do it myself.

It is not rocket science. At worst it is 3rd grade arithmetic.

FM is great and has provided me with endless tech support on my hydra. Regardless of their $65 offer you will still probably need to work on your fuel maps at a minimum.

If you want set it and forget it sell your miata and just buy a cobb accessport and a subaru and be cool like all the bros lol

Tuning is a required part of the miata turbo game. Learn to do it.

Call it morbid curiosity, but I have to know. Is this your actual spark table and if so how the fuck are you getting away with it?!

Low comp pistons and unrestrictive turbine housing.

Also, it's probably the lovely texas nectar they call fuel there.

I thought it was a joke...

I run that spark table on 91-octane. You're right on the low comp, big turbine housing, 3" exhaust, and 11.5:1 AFR (could go leaner but it makes less torque).

I suspect the problem the OP had was not his spark table. You don't bust a piston instantly due to a few * too much advance. I suspect way more advance than that - that the actual advance was way more advanced than the MS setting, like he didn't do the 10* timing light check.

[/thread]

I thought I did enough reaming of myself before everyone else chimed in. If I understand right, trolling is like me trying to sell stuff for FM? No, not the case really. It's a good product all the way around.

The maps from FM are not random. This map is for the FMII kit with the 550s on the same 99 motor that I have in my car. BTW spark is universal between tuning programs and ECUs. Obviously it is setup dependent. If you buy an FM kit like I did, it would be smart to use their spark tables as a basis. It's the same tables they send out on their ECUs - so yeah I think I trust it. It's not just a random email tune.

So, about the reaming. Funny that the spark table came highly recommended from multiple members on this forum. It was posted later in one of the stickies on this forum! So, FTW, yes I made mistakes and identified them. The idea is to prevent more mistakes and not provide misinformation. Hustler's table should be pulled. It is likely that someone would otherwise take his post literally and use that table. It's really not funny.

No, it's not funny, somebody should do something about that Hustler guy, and quick. Oh wait, this thread is 2 months old.

OK where do I find the popular map. I searched timing map and timing tables and cants seem to find it. I will keep searching but if someone has the generally acceptable map it would be a good starting point for me. My car seems to need a lot more timing. It did even before ms.

Oh and is detonation something you can hear pretty easy.

No.

Geeez, man!

Go here:

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/dyno-tuning-take-look-fm-we-want-your-timingz-18648/

and here:

https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuning-54/another-electronic-det-can-example-61616/

Don't even think about tuning spark without det cans.

If you can hear the detonation with your naked ears then youre detonating really badly.

Waiting for you to blow more motor.

the real reason you last number 4. ran the stock fuel rail.

I'm pretty sure its been proven time and time again that this doesn't matter?

Single feed rails rob the 4th cylinder for gas, equal is always better

Given that there's 60psi going through the rail I do not think it matters. That's a lot of fuel.

Let me rephrase. I'm like 90% certain there is empirical evidence that invalidates your statement.

If faeflora with 92637 horsepower isn't worried about it, I don't think it's an issue, unless maybe its a full blown track car.

Regulators, how do they work?

Hydraulic pressure is equal everywhere in static conditions (fuel flow on the order of what we're talking about is relatively static, so flow losses are minimal). No cylinder would lean out more than another, even if the fuel rail were losing pressure. Also, I think the return is on the side of the rail closest to Cylinder 1. Your logic doesn't follow pman.

My FPR is at the back of the rail by cyl 4. That's where the return fuel leaves.