fourwhls needs help! 99 IAC settings - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 01-18-2008, 10:11 AM   #21
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Peter tested the PNP on his stim yesterday and everything worked as it should, so as I assumed the problem is somewhere in my car.

I had to do the family thing last night, so I didn't get a chance to chase any wires. My wife and kids are going out with her sister tonight, so I have all night to play. Peter will be back by in the morning, so hopefully we will get this thing going this weekend.

I must say it's frustrating with issues like this, but it's also good. You really learn a lot troubleshooting.
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Old 01-18-2008, 10:13 AM   #22
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CRAP, I've got a work party at the Hockey game or I'd be over tonite for sure... I'll keep in touch and if you're still working tomorrow, I'll be over... snow or not!
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Old 01-18-2008, 11:12 AM   #23
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good thread, been reading along to learn for future needs

from everything you said here so far i would rule out the injectors, and besides sitting for a month should not affect them much uneless they sat in a jar of honey
i am not sure of all the wiring mods you did for the link, so i dont know what wires were cut, but im willing to put my money on a bad/weak connection in one or more wires either leading to the ignitor or from the ignitor to the coils, i would look at the grounding wires first though to ensure good connections
not sure of all the difference in the 90-93 cars, but i would assume that the ignitor is getting the signal straight from the ECU, and if you cut any wires on the ECU harness, which i know some people do, then thats where your problem is most likely
the TPS also should have nothing to do with the weak spark

IIRC this dude i know bought a miata a long time ago with a link and the PO did a terrible job on the wiring, the car would just start acting up at random, again IIRC, he ended up repacing the entire wiring harness, i hope you wont have to man
good luck, i wish i could be more helpful
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Old 01-18-2008, 08:20 PM   #24
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It's Alive!!!! It's Alive!!!!!

I don't know what I fixed, but I fixed it. I removed all the connections that I made when removing the Link and redid them. I also soldered them this time instead of butt connectors.

It wont idle at all, but I don't care. I know getting to idle is just tuning. Getting it to start is a whole other ballpark.
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:07 PM   #25
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Congrats!
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:33 PM   #26
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Awesome man glad to hear you are mobile agian
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:38 PM   #27
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Awesome-- glad to hear it Shawn... keep us posted and let us know if there's anything we can do...
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Old 01-19-2008, 03:34 AM   #28
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Nice...
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Old 01-19-2008, 03:45 AM   #29
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Hoooray!
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Old 01-20-2008, 09:26 AM   #30
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Alright, got it running good at idle yesterday and planned on taking it out for some road tunning when a bad wideband cut that short.

I now see why it was having a hard time starting and running. The timing was about 18* retarded and the fuel pressure was about 70psi at idle. It's amazing how much difference it make when you fix those.

I bought a used AEM UEGO and it appears I got shafted. 1st the threads on the season were destroyed, but after about an hour with a grinder and some files, I got those cleaned up enough to work. Finished the install to find that something is not working. I am hoping the sensor is bad, but we will see. Mike (Icantdo55) dropped off a brand new UEGO for me to trouble shoot with. Again, I hope it is just the sensor.

The gauge goes through the start up sequence then gets to a __ screen and stays that way. I don't know.

On another note...

I am using a '00 IAC valve and the MSPNP is not jiving with it. It's not talking...Any ideas on the idle control settings when using a 99-00 IAC? Does polarity matter when hooking up the IAC? I just guessed when swapping connectors. I figured with only 2 wired, I had a 50/50 chance of being right.

Worst case, I have a friend with a '99 that we can go scope, but asking a question on the interweb is much easier.
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Old 01-20-2008, 09:41 AM   #31
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Chad would know this he is the NB guru
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Old 01-20-2008, 10:55 AM   #32
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Try setting the base idle valve settings as per the MM9495 map. I know there is a difference from 93-94. Then from 94-97 they are the same. I'm not sure though in 99 and 00 if it's still the same valve... it's somewhat likely though.

Algorithm = PWM
When to use PWM Idle = Closed Loop Only
Idle Valve Frequency = 26
Cranking (dc) = 12
Minimum (dc) = 9
Closed (dc) = 9


See if this helps any...
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Old 01-22-2008, 09:36 AM   #33
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Update:

Jerry...Those setting are still not controlling the IAC. The frequency is still not right.

Onto the issues....

We thought we had this this whooped, but boy were we wrong. We had it idling Saturday, but then it wouldn't start again Sunday or Monday. After hours of scoping every signal possible, we determined that everything was working electrically. So onto hard parts....

Come to find out, the freshly cleaned 460cc injectors are junk. Yes, I know...you told me. :banghead:

We swapped out the 460s for the stock 1.8 injectors, rescalled the fuel and fired it up. It ran like stock, fired up after less than a second. Incredible!

Time to start shopping for some new injectors. Every used piece I purchased for this build has bit me in the *** one way or another. I hate to spend the money, but I am thinking new injectors. I'm already in the dog house for spend 30+ hours in the garage this 3-day weekend, I don't think it will get any worse with spending more $$$.
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:04 AM   #34
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I am using the nb inlet manifold on my na6 and stuffed around for ages with the idle using the na8 idle setup. I could never get it just to look after it nice and smooth, it always ended up hunting. I eventually gave up and jsut set it to warmup only with the warm dc set to 8 from memory which means depending on the weather it just idles at like 1250 or so and when you load it up with fan and headlights it drops to about 1000-1100 but stays pretty steady.

It would be great if you could come up with the appropriate frequency to set it to, it would be really good to be able to have the computer run closed loop and have it work.

Good luck with your car mate, Tim
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:12 AM   #35
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I've had good luck with used injectors serviced by Witchhunter, but it could just be the luck of the draw on the injectors themselves...

On the IAC valve, there are two ways to go about finding the frequency. The 'bang your head on a wall until it's a bloody pulp way' which involves trail and error, more error in my experience, of guessing frequencies and then guessing min and max DC's for the valve. Or the 'I have a stock test car way' which involves scoping the stock computer controlling the stock idle valve (on a 99-00 car in this case) and measuring the frequency and min/max duty cycles it controls the valve at. This does't give you an exact number to use as I've had to vary the frequency measured as used by the stock ECU by a few points when controlling the valve with the MS, but it gets you REALLY close and tells you where to look for the valves 'happy range' at .
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:34 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoundSoul View Post
I've had good luck with used injectors serviced by Witchhunter,
snip
+1 on success with Witchhunter.
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Old 02-01-2008, 10:15 AM   #37
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My stock ECU is controlling idle still. We scoped the valve at 488-490 hz. So that should make it right around ~20.5 as the value you would enter.
Let me know if that works or not.
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Old 02-02-2008, 06:37 PM   #38
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cjernigan you're the man! I have a nice steady idle. I didn't have a lot of time to play with the DC limits, but it's idling better than it ever has.

Tomorrow is tuning day. I can't wait to get this thing dialed in.
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Old 02-02-2008, 07:50 PM   #39
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You can buy the first round then. That's awesome it's working well.
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Old 02-02-2008, 11:02 PM   #40
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If you ever venture east, the beer is on me
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