Got a job, ordered an MS1 V3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 12-28-2006, 08:25 PM   #1
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Default Got a job, ordered an MS1 V3

1 x MegaSquirt Tuning Cable (DB9 Straight Thru) $6.50
1 x Lead Bending Tool $6.00
1 x MegaSquirt-I Programmable EFI System PCB3.0 - Kit w/ BLACK CASE $195.00
1 x MegaSquirt Stimulator v2.1 - UnAssembled Kit $48.00
1 x DLP-TXRX Internal USB / Serial Adapter $31.00
1 x PCBv3 and v2.2 -- Pullup Resistors 'ModKit' $1.60
1 x MegaSquirt Wiring Bundle - 2' Long $12.00
1 x Metal DB37 Cover with Hardware & Gaskets $9.25
1 x USB Tuning Cable for use with DLP-TXRX USB MegaSquirt Conversion $6.00
1 x USB to Serial Adapter - Works with MegaTune! $22.00


Anything else I'll need? I've been keeping an eye out and I think I've got everything accept a sensor maybe, but I plan to try the stock ones first using a similar switched system to what kingofl33t sells. I'm not going to share exactly how I'm doing it though as I feel he is providing a very good service to the community and those who can't figure it out for themselves should pay for that service.

This is will for a parallel install with the stock ECU. I'll also be ordering an AEM WBo2 gauge when I get my first paycheck mid january.
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Old 12-28-2006, 09:35 PM   #2
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You definitely need an IAT sensor. Why get the AEM when you can get the LC1 for about $100 less? Unless you're getting a great deal somehow. Also you might as well go ahead and order the parts for the EBC.
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Old 12-28-2006, 10:08 PM   #3
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Do you still need the serial cable and external serial/usb adaptor? All of the USB "daughter" boards i've seen for MS replace the MAX232 chip. You have either USB or serial but not both.

Where did you end up getting a job at?
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Old 12-29-2006, 10:37 PM   #4
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Got a job with Oceaneering DTS (Deepwater Technical Solutions) in Houston. And you are right... I have the daughter board for the usb conversion as well as the serial adapter->usb adapter. I meant to remove one or the other during checkout but I guess I missed it. So, I suppose I'll have some extra parts around incase something doesn't want to work correctly.

Sigh, I'll get the IAT locally. Can't be that hard to get a GM connector at a pick a part. I can't remember if I can split the coolant temp sensor with the stock ecu or not, so I might end up adding another one of them as well.
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Old 12-29-2006, 10:48 PM   #5
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You'll probably have to get the IAT online. You need the open element sensor for turbo cars, and I don't think that's very commonly used. You can share the stock CLT sensor.
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Old 12-29-2006, 10:54 PM   #6
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bugger...
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Old 12-29-2006, 11:25 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Hounos View Post
You definitely need an IAT sensor. Why get the AEM when you can get the LC1 for about $100 less? Unless you're getting a great deal somehow. Also you might as well go ahead and order the parts for the EBC.
Oh yeah... and I'm going with the AEM because it actually includes a gauge. By the time I get a gauge for the LC-1 I'm sitting at roughly the same price or more. It also helps that I've used the AEM in the past (formula sae) so I know how to set it up.
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Old 12-30-2006, 06:21 PM   #8
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Ok, I just really wish someone would tell me what an AFR gauge is used for. They seem extremely unnecessary to me.
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Old 12-30-2006, 07:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Hounos View Post
Ok, I just really wish someone would tell me what an AFR gauge is used for. They seem extremely unnecessary to me.
heh I'm of the same opinion. I need one when tuning, but when I'm tuning it's displayed on Megaview or MegaLogViewer...

Plus there's the problem of where to fit it, there's not a lot of places you can use without losing something i.e. airvent, cubby box etc.
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Old 12-30-2006, 10:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Hounos View Post
Ok, I just really wish someone would tell me what an AFR gauge is used for. They seem extremely unnecessary to me.
I took mine out today, I found it very useless. Oil Pressure gauge going in its place
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