WOW, Im getting really discouraged at this thing :(

I put a resistor on the 1K TPS to ground. Same results
Lowered my REQFUEL to 11, 10, 9, 13. Same results

I have removed Q6 and Q8, double checked all my board stuff. It all looks to be in order.

Same results = It will try to start on the first crank. After that it just turns over

Im gonna hook the injectors back to the stock ECU and see if I can get it to start that way. Could I have messed something up in the stock system?

 

You should switch the ignition back to the OEM ECU. Get the car to run and then move over to fuel and spark. The diffrence between 12 and 14 in fuel req
is not going the diffrence between starting and not.

 

The stock ECU is still handling the Spark, I am only trying to get the fuel to work, then spark.

 

Boy do I understand. While trying to get mine working, I installed the 230 cc injectors and was so happy with them running on the stock ECM, I almost settled for that and gave up on MS. Glad I didn't. Did you read through my "Unsuccessful first attempt" thread? I couldn't tell, do you know that MS is reading an RPM signal? That gave me a lot of trouble and mine would also start and then die. It would only run for 2-3 seconds if that. It was because I didn't have the CAS wired correctly.

Dumb question: What does IRTB stand for?

Your TPS to ground shouldn't matter if you aren't running a TPS yet.

 

Induvidual Runner Throttle Bodies.

 

Can you take a picture of the MODs you have done to your MS? If you have the MS hooked up correctly running only the circuit that connects to the CAS should give you a nice RPM reading.

 

Sorry guys, I have been in Michigan this weekend, so I havent messed with it.

Tonight I am gonna try a couple of things:
-Re-connect the injectors to the stock ECU, see if it starts up. Is there anything I could have fried? With the MS still hooked up except for the injectors, can I put my multimeter on the injector wires to see if they are working?
-Fulltilt sent me his MSQ, im gonna try that as well.

 

A clean RPM signal is the key to a working MS. If the rpm signal is jumpy
you are going to have trouble. Disconnect everything except the Coolant, Air Temp, Vacume, and CAS. Then drive around and log the megasquirt. Post that here.

 

Yes, you can. You should be getting about 13.5V or whatever your battery feels like giving. Ideally, you should hook up an oscilloscope and check out the pulses on every injector channel but not everyone can afford a descent handheld oscilloscope just for testing purposes (about $300).

Jim

 

Hmmmmm..... it seems my problems are NOT Megasquirt related. I reconnected the injector wires to the stock ECU. It does the same damn thing.

I pulled a plug out and grounded it, NO SPARK!!!! ARGHHHHH, I have not touched ANYTHING related to spark AFAIK. The plug was COVERED in fuel. So aparently the Megasquirt was firing the injectors.

Im assuming there are only 3 sources for the trouble. ECU, Igniter and Coil.

Any thoughts, ideas? This REALLy sucks, I have an Autox on Saturday and Sunday.

 

I got to thinking last night, could it be the AFM?

I installed one of those "torque dampeners" to keep the engine from moving and screwing up my shifts to 3rd AX'ing. and we had to move the AFM down some. That may have screwed it up. I know its plugged in.

Sound plausible? Would putting the jumper for the fuel pump bypass this problem?

 

No, since your plugs where fouled with gas that means that the injectors were squirting thus no AFM problems. Most propably you have fried your ignitors or coils - or your ignitor/coil wires are messed up. How did you hook up your MS, did you splice it into the stock harness?

 

Yes, I spliced it in, but I never touched the spark side.

 

Its probably the ignitor that is fried if anything. Disconnect the CAS inputs to the megasquirt and see if you regain spark.

 

Fried ignitor FTW!!!!

Car is running on the stock ECU 100% again. I'll get the MS wired back in and take some logs of the CAS signal

 

You need to make sure you connect the ignitor to the side of the resistor close to the LEDs.

 

That's EXACTLY what I am gonna do!