Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 1196728)
Maybe DIY uses the $.63 each gold pins because we care more about doing this the best way possible instead of the cheap $.09 each tin pins.
Maybe next time thank companies like DIY for providing all of the R&D, tech support, and forum sponsorship before bad mouthing. Last I checked, online components doesn't help pay for the sandbox you enjoy playing in. I wasn't bad mouthing. I simply asked why you are charging that much. I have purchased over $10,000 worth of products for different projects from DIY and will continue to do so, so I think I do pay my fare share to play in that sandbox, thank you! A simple the price difference is due to the gold vs. tin would have suffice instead of showing teeth buddy! Just relax... |
@Skou
Instead of buying a MS3-Pro you'd better have bought a MS3-Pro module with one of my plug and play boards and mount it inside the stock case. No messing with wiring looms, a connector in yet another box and much cheaper. Too bad I'm all out ;) @Hector Just curious, what's with your extra outputs that doesn't work with my board? I designed the board to have all free pins connected to pads so you just need to add a jumper for an extra output. If I ever decide to make a new board, any input you have is more than welcome. |
Originally Posted by WestfieldMX5
(Post 1196877)
@Skou
Instead of buying a MS3-Pro you'd better have bought a MS3-Pro module with one of my plug and play boards and mount it inside the stock case. No messing with wiring looms, a connector in yet another box and much cheaper. Too bad I'm all out ;) I was actually considering the MS3-Pro module, but went with the standalone with harness as this was originally going to go into my very slowly progressing Lotus 7 replica. I should have just bought a Westfield. EDIT: I want to buy an alternator pcb. |
why? ms3 code can do alternator.
|
Compare log files beween software and hardware control and I bet you switch back to hardware.
|
Frank, it was my impression from looking at your board it would not have worked. I may be wrong though. I also am building up the pro module to mimic my current DIYPNP as far as connections go for a quick swap and so I could keep the DIYPNP as a spare. Oh, and this is a VVT engine in an NA.
I am using the stock coil trigger wires on the factory harness to feed ground directly to the BIP373's inside the case. There were terrible noise issues when I was sharing the ground from the ecu and running it this way cured it. Also, I am using the one of the evap emissions wires for VVT control. The MAF sensor signal wires for crank sensor signal, while the cam sensor runs through the CAS. Am I wrong? |
Originally Posted by WestfieldMX5
(Post 1196905)
Compare log files beween software and hardware control and I bet you switch back to hardware.
I can't make my software control mess up. I greatly prefer it over any hardware implementation I've tried, including the circuit that you copied. The only thing I've seen is Scott's example where there was a brief spike after a sync loss. That is in the firmware developer's queue. |
Originally Posted by hector
(Post 1196930)
Frank, it was my impression from looking at your board it would not have worked. I may be wrong though. I also am building up the pro module to mimic my current DIYPNP as far as connections go for a quick swap and so I could keep the DIYPNP as a spare. Oh, and this is a VVT engine in an NA.
I am using the stock coil trigger wires on the factory harness to feed ground directly to the BIP373's inside the case. There were terrible noise issues when I was sharing the ground from the ecu and running it this way cured it. Also, I am using the one of the evap emissions wires for VVT control. The MAF sensor signal wires for crank sensor signal, while the cam sensor runs through the CAS. Am I wrong? But I'll keep it in mind for the V3 version :) |
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