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-   -   lc-1 output ID and funky/weird 15.0 static # in the gauge (https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/lc-1-output-id-funky-weird-15-0-static-gauge-30736/)

hustler 01-24-2009 07:58 PM

lc-1 output ID and funky/weird 15.0 static # in the gauge
 
how can I ID which output is going to the gauge without looking at the wires (tough to get access and neatly taped up). I tried changing the voltages but the display remained constant on the gauge.

After I drive the car for a while, the gauge and MS both read 15.0:1 until I cut and re-establish power. It does this shit all the time. I am not getting an error code on the little light. I've reset and done several free-air calibrations and this problem will not go away. My sensor is mounted on the top of the pipe, at the back of the cat.

I searched.

patsmx5 01-24-2009 07:59 PM

How'd you wire up the LC-1?

naarleven 01-24-2009 08:09 PM

http://www.vibrant.com/images/cables...nest-n8foo.jpg

hustler 01-25-2009 12:42 AM


Originally Posted by patsmx5 (Post 358371)
How'd you wire up the LC-1?

can't remember where I put the yellow #1 and brown #2 wires. The grouns are all on the intake plenum, on different lugs.

patsmx5 01-25-2009 12:44 AM

Where did you get +12V switched power from? Does the LC-1 stay powered while you're starting, or does it go off when in the start position? Where's the LC-1 mounted? Was it new when you bought it?

Naarleven's pic = win.

hustler 01-25-2009 01:14 AM

power is from a piggy-back fuse block thingy on the dash light fuse...I'm pretty sure it stays on but the gauge is powered from another circuit which is not. The controller is under the shift knob. I bought it new.

turbobluemiata 01-25-2009 01:41 AM

I think all the grounds go to the same place...... if I remember the instructions, and I know its very picky about how you wire it... but FWIW my gauge is wired to the brown output and It reads fine:hustler:

hustler 01-25-2009 09:42 AM


Originally Posted by turbobluemiata (Post 358495)
I think all the grounds go to the same place...... if I remember the instructions, and I know its very picky about how you wire it... but FWIW my gauge is wired to the brown output and It reads fine:hustler:

you can either send all gnd's to the same piece of metal on different lugs, or solder them together...no stacking lugs.

I guess I have to start cutting heat-shrink.

Saml01 01-26-2009 10:59 AM

Mine does the same shit except it actually blinks the code. Upon warmup it works fine, as soon as I drive down the block it dies.

Come spring im throwing the sensor in the garbage or just buying an AEM.

You sure you got your light setup right? Like when you press the free air button it goes out?

hustler 01-26-2009 11:06 AM


Originally Posted by Saml01 (Post 359104)
Mine does the same shit except it actually blinks the code. Upon warmup it works fine, as soon as I drive down the block it dies.

Come spring im throwing the sensor in the garbage or just buying an AEM.

You sure you got your light setup right? Like when you press the free air button it goes out?

correct. Maybe the sensor is bad, dunno. However I tuned it with both outputs on the ms voltage range, so I know its tuned and now I just ignore the gauge.

Saml01 01-26-2009 11:56 AM


Originally Posted by hustler (Post 359108)
correct. Maybe the sensor is bad, dunno. However I tuned it with both outputs on the ms voltage range, so I know its tuned and now I just ignore the gauge.

While I do the same thing, its not ideal. The gauge is a cheap insurance policy.

If it wasnt so damn cold, id change the sensor tomorrow.

N3v 01-26-2009 02:01 PM

why do you tape everything up? that makes messing with stuff hard. my harness looks like this for easy access:
http://www.vibrant.com/images/cables...-not-touch.jpg


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