all i want for xmas is to know is why my warmup enrichments switch to 150% after 160*F :(
PLEASE SANTA!!! |
wish I could help you out. I had a similar problem with their map.. couldn't get it to run for shit. try creating your own MSQ. output their fuel and spark maps and .vex files to import into you own MSQ. Then just make sure you have all the constants and spark setting correct and you should be "OK".
Or you could just call them after xmas ;) |
Originally Posted by cjernigan
(Post 189350)
Your IAT sensor is heatsoaking. It doesn't matter if your're NA or blown with a jet engine. The sensor is heat soaking just sitting there at idle. Go for a drive and see if it cools down with air rushing over it. Saml01 had the same problem in his stock intake tube. The GM defaults work perfect, that's not your problem.
If you think's it's wrong then make up a glass of ice water and take it outside with you. Pull the sensor and put it in the water. Should be close to around 34* F. But this thread mentions something interesting. During warmup my car idles around 15:1. Didnt know it had to be 12:1 at idle, guess ill tune the warmups on my car as well. |
Originally Posted by 240_to_miata_OWNER
(Post 189422)
all i want for xmas is to know is why my warmup enrichments switch to 150% after 160*F :(
PLEASE SANTA!!! post your damn MSQ. I highly suspect your CLT related Air density correction values..... |
Shouldn't you guys be celebrating that crazy gentile Hannuka you all do in December?
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 189447)
post your damn MSQ. I highly suspect your CLT related Air density correction values.....
but what im saying is the warmup enrichment values are showing 150% after warmup... meaning the guage itself is telling me its teh warmup enrichments that are way above 100%. i havent even messed with CLT related air density yet, so ill plug in your values and check some stuff out later today |
under warmup wizard....the correction values start high and end at 160* to 100%?
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correct.. and like i said, they work perfectly and the little black arrow is at the correct read out until it actually reaches above 160* then the arrow disapears and it reads 150% correction.... im gunna start building my own msq now and go test it out.
I just found out my parents payed for megasquirt for xmas :-D |
it runs great... Thanks for all the help. I made my own MSQ and just plugged in the values from the pnp base map.. it seems that i must have had some error or sumthing before. The whole map is slightly rich right now but runs very smoothly.
And you guys were right... the IAT does get heat soaked... i put in your values and it corrected the problem instantly btw... what is Gamma correction? |
I as well wanna thank braineack for his IAT corrections. I couldn't quiet get my curve right, but after seeings someone elses values I managed to easily clean up the problem.
Thanks man. |
while we're on the subject, where is everyone mounting their IAT sensor? elbow going into the throttle body? seems the easiest place.
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It's where I put mine. And hey, I can idle. So you know it's working great.
Actually, it's just mounted where FM puts theirs for the Hydra installs. Also, I put in a second tap for a boost signal. |
I'm confused. When I run easytherm with the gm default iat and default rx7 clt, it then writes the .s19 files, but tells me to change "R4 to 4700". Can someone tell me what this is doing in retard terms?
Is it really necessary to do my own calibration, or is it ok to run with these defaults? I just tried to drive the car at ambient temps above 35, and it didn't go so well. If I can just manually enter brain's correction, where do I do this? (I'd rather just do this). I'm slowly learning this shit with your help. thanks. |
if its saying to change R4 that means the IAT bias that is typed in is 4700... check that and redo it
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You're running an MS PNP. You shouldn't be changing any values. You need to download their firmware and flash it with what they provide. They have accurate values with correct bias and everything already setup.
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Originally Posted by cjernigan
(Post 190869)
You're running an MS PNP. You shouldn't be changing any values. You need to download their firmware and flash it with what they provide. They have accurate values with correct bias and everything already setup.
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Why are you the only one posting problems with this though? Ben doesn't have issues, doesn't he have the exact same thing you do. Isn't the sensor in your intake tract? If so how does your laser thermometer measure the air inside the intake tract?
The air inside the pipe will be a different temp than what you measure on the outside. For some reason NA intake temps get really hot, what you're seeing is not irregular. The GM defaults are that way for a reason, they're proven to be accurate. The DIYautotune firmware actually has even more accurate GM sensor resistance/temps values to make it more linear or something to that extent. IIRC Quitcherbitchin |
you mean the engine bay warms up when the car is running? even without a turbo? hmm. now i have to go and rethink all i thought i knew about gas being burned under compression in an enclosed area.
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