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Old 12-20-2007, 10:18 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
I'm definitely gonna copy your idea- that's very clean.
Please do. That's why I post them - hope everyone can benefit.

Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
I've been noodling around with a printed copy of the schematic and a pencil for weeks now. Getting very familiar with it.
Isn't it shocking how simple it is when you start actually disecting it into elements?

Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post

R37 and R38 are just resistors, and they're non-polarized....
It's a really clever design.
Yeah - it's nice to have another pair of eyes look at it and say the same thing. I guess three sets have, there's also the designer, who also thought it would work. :-)

Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
So when note 1 says you can "Remove and Jumper" R37 and R38, they mean just that. If you need to free up some space on the heatsink, you can remove the resistors....
I just can't see them getting hot, and if they do, ok, they *eventually* may die. But I have my doubts. I think I'll stick them on the back where there's loads of room. Just with I went with my guts before I broke one.

Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
I'm going to leave those in place, and instead remove Q9 and Q12. Those are the PWM damping circuit, and I don't plan to run PWM injection control since I already have hi-z injectors and I intend to run HR code which doesn't support injector PWM.
You know, the worst thing you have to lose is a transistor. Set you back like, $4? Hardly worth putting the resistors in. Think of the grams you could save.
And, when you step up to the Man Leagues and get a MS-II, you'll want peak-and-hold to drive the 800cc injectors you'll have to run to maintain the 9,000 hp all MS-II cars make.

Yep, it's time for a post-thursday .
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