astroboy

iTrader: (18)

90 chassis w/ms1 standalone. 99 head, intake manifold, aem wideband, id1000 injectors, and cops. Currently NA and not running.

Took the car from a tuned (dentsport) turbo car to a long block to finish a few items in the engine bay including some cutting and welding and a respray. At the same time I pulled the dash to tidy up the harness and update some items. Put the engine components back together and started her up (NA open header) and all seemed good in the world. Then I put the dash and interior back in and ended up needing to rework the fuel lines due to a nasty leak. Once all was said and done she wouldn't start. Ended up being a bad fuel pump due to the FPR being stuck shut. All she does now is crank. Never stumbles or even tries to start. Car has a brand new battery.

So far:
Replaced the fuel pump, rebuilt the FPR and get 60psi at the FPR. Verified there was flow of fuel.

Checked the ground for the wiring harness, .5ohms on all applicable pins. Checked the ground on the block, .3ohms; the ground for the head and intake manifold is .6ohms. All of which was measured to the chassis.

I can see everything for MS, all is as would be expected imo. I do get the outer LEDs to come on (injectors and ACCEL) but I am not sure it that's correct.

Swapped the CAS with a known working unit and tried a myriad of positions and found no success. Checked the wiring for the cas and have continuity for all four wires.

Pulled the plugs (stock temp and appropriate gap for COP's), baked them with a torch, verified they all fired when cranking, let the cylinders dry out for a few days, and re-installed them with no joy.

Triple checked timing, then had a good friend make sure it wasn't off.

At one point last year (before the car went into "storage") I got the car to run on what seemed like a single cylinder but it would only do that without the IAT sensor hooked up. Has not done it again since.

There is the smell of fuel when cranking and fuel on the plugs. There is visible carbon and moisture in a couple of the cylinders.

There are no weird noises when cranking.

Pulled the intake manifold off and checked resistance for the injectors, they are all between 12.3 to 12.6 ohms. Then I checked the resistance from the positive battery terminal to the starter and alternator and got .2 ohms for both. There is apparently nothing disconnected / misconnected and all the connections look solid.

The voltage seen by the ecu when cranking is ~9V

Does anybody have any thoughts on this conundrum? Right now I think I either have some random phantom connector not connected, a stuck injector dumping all of the fuel into one cylinder flooding it out, a bad ecu or tune, or my starter is drawing too much voltage/current. Thanks!

Matt Cramer

If you pull a spark plug after a failed start, is it wet with fuel or dry?

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

Wet. I would have to double check all of the plugs again because it has been a while since I checked them all after a failed start but I am 100% that when I pulled one after a failure it was wet.

Matt Cramer

Try reducing the cranking pulse width.

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

You think that would keep it from starting? I will give it a go this weekend.

Matt Cramer

Too much cranking pulse width can DEFINITELY keep the motor from starting.

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

I pulled my intake manifold off and connected the injectors and tps to see 100% if the injectors were firing and they weren't. I will take voltages tonight to see if they are all clogged or if they just aren't getting the command to fire.

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

Why don't you use the injector test function in TS?

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

I didn't know that was a thing. What is it under?

When I took my voltages it was between .1v and .3v when cranking for each injector which is too low. So I will try this injector test thing once I find it and see if the light off. If so it is a quest into why they aren't firing.

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

So this test mode. Do I need to make a custom command for it or does it come with the full tuner studio? I am running lite! and can't find the section for the output to shift it into injector test mode. I am running a ms1v3 but I don't think that's what's wrong. Can you guys point me in the right direction?

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

post your tune, Ill look on mine. Lite may not work. you will want the real thing, along with megalog viewer.


I see you posted one. Il look later

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

doesn't look like it is available on ms1. Sucky.

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

Thanks. I'll try downloading the full version to see if I can get it to work w/ms1. If not I will have to figure out another way...maybe just do the 9v battery test to see if they are clogged and from there determine why they aren't being told to fire if they really aren't.

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

After pressurizing the rail and trying to open each injector with a 9v not a single one opened. Sent them all to be cleaned and flow tested. Hopefully this will get this **** working.

Matt Cramer

MS1 does not have an injector test version, regardless of what version of TunerStudio you use.

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

The likelihood of 4 dead injectors is about .000001. You have other problems I suspect. What injectors are they? The cleaning is probably half the cost of some new flow force..

you have other problems, unless you ran acid through the ID 1000's

If they are already shipped off, then theyou will know 100% If they work or not. Then I would suspect pig tails. My ID pigtails were pretty shitty, brand new. IMO.

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

They came back and one was stuck.

When I tested them I did it sans adaptors to remove any other variables. When I did the voltage test for the voltage going to the injectors to tell them to open the voltage was too low .3v INSTEAD of 12ish) so I have something telling the edu that it shouldn't inject, bad drivers on the edu, or a wire not connected. I am going to have to measure the harness resistance from edu to injectors and go from there I think.