Looking for a N/A tune for my EUDM 10AE - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 09-30-2011, 03:53 AM   #21
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Thanks. Interesting that the 99's make more power than 01+.
Yes, we were also surprised, especially considering that the '01+ was listed with 146 PS compared to the 140 of the '99 - '00.

As a side note: We also had one imported US Miata with full I/H/E and the MSM cam - it produced a quite impressive 153.2 PS and 168.7 Nm.

- Tom
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Old 09-30-2011, 05:21 AM   #22
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The 146hp figure is a joke. I've never seen a 01-05 produce more than 140hp bone stock.
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:47 AM   #23
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I did some more reading and trawling the internet. Adjusted the AFR table. Now with a richer target at high RPM all the way down from low load instead of only at high load. I don't know if this has any practical meaning as it is rare to hit high revs with anything but full throttle.

I'm also a bit in doubt about AFR targets for best power. Somewhere Joe Perez mentions 12.5 - 13:1 for best N/A power and somewhere else Ben from diyautotune says N/A Miatas produces the most power at 13.1 - 13.2.

I'm looking to do some VE auto tuning based on this tonight and then give it a shakedown tomorrow.

- Tom



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Old 09-30-2011, 09:14 AM   #24
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I still think in some areas you are wasting fuel one-niner. Mainly around cruise area I wouldn't even go below 14.7 until its no longer a cruise area transitition from cruise to acceleration
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:23 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Techsalvager View Post
I still think in some areas you are wasting fuel one-niner. Mainly around cruise area I wouldn't even go below 14.7 until its no longer a cruise area transitition from cruise to acceleration
Perhaps more like this?

Note that I "merged" a few columns (RPM) around the cruise area since there was no changes going on anyway - I suppose that is ok, right?

EDIT I forgot: I'm cruising at up to around 50 % load between 1,500 and 2,500. I remember that I'm just under 4,000 on the motorway but I haven't checked the load at that speed yet /EDIT





- Tom
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Old 11-03-2011, 05:54 PM   #26
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Open the bypass screw so that the idle PWM % is around 25% when warm, and the issue will be mostly fixed. I will look into it however, for a better fix.
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I went for a drive at lunch and it didn't stall on me

It still dips when coming to a stop, e.g. at lights, but recovers immediately and settles to a nice idle.

- Tom
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Working on a fix for that as well.
Any progress on this?

BTW, I must say that I'm getting more and more happy with my setup. In general it runs really well - it's just the idle that needs a little love

- Tom
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Old 11-03-2011, 06:17 PM   #27
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Send me an email, and I'll send you a little something to try tomorrow morning.
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:06 PM   #28
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So, finally got around to updating the firmware. Did the calibrations, tightened the idle adjustment screw and fired her up.

Idle at both cold and warm is much improved. It still drops below 800 when coming of the gas when warm but it quickly stabilises and never stalls.

The Idle PWM% sits at 34 - 35 when warm. I believe it's supposed to be 23, but I might be mistaken. Can anyone advise?

- Tom
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Old 12-28-2011, 03:28 AM   #29
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Idle PWM % depends on how much you tighten/loosen the idle adjustment screw. There is no "right or wrong value" on this one. Anything over 20% is ok.

You can increase the "closed value" to help with the droop. Typically, I like to use 3-4% more than where the idle PWM % sits.
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Old 12-28-2011, 03:35 AM   #30
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Thanks. I'll give it a go.

- Tom
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