gorillazfan1023

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Here is a zip of the entire original datalog.

gorillazfan1023

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Well I think I finally figured it out. I became suspect of the cam sensor because it would give crazy readings randomly so I picked up a new one. I drove around for 30 minutes with the old sensor and I had the issue. So then I put the new sensor in and thrashed the car for 45 minutes and the issue didn't seem to return. I'm hoping that finally took care of it. Now I can finally dial in my fuel!!!

gorillazfan1023

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Well issue isn't fixed. I didn't drive the car at all the other day. This morning I drove it and made it about 4 miles before it started acting up again.

gorillazfan1023

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I'm getting real annoyed again. So I changed the cam sensor, that didn't help. I changed the oil and cleaned the vvt solenoid, that didn't help. I visually inspected all the joints that would affect it and shook them around, no change. Finally I contacted DIY directly. They said it's my wiring or the cam sensor is going bad. I have the unit wired in parallel so I can just unplug it when I need inspected.

This morning I put the stock ecu back in. I still have my RX-8 injectors in and no primary O2 sensor for the stock ecu. Fired right up and idled fine, just rich because of those two things. Only got one code, for the O2 sensor. A problem with the vvt system would throw a code right away and I even tested this by unplugging the solenoid. Doing so immediately tripped a code.

I don't know what to think other then the vvtuner unit itself is junk. I think this because it seems to get this sporadic cam signal even if I unplug the vvt solenoid, which would lock cam advance to 4 degrees at idle.

This brings me to another question which DIY has ignored in my emails. Last year when I had issues they told me if it was wired in parallel to remove resistors R2 and R3 from the vvtuner board. I did and it didn't help, I did it again recently and it didn't help. However one of my friends suggested that perhaps the resistors were to be removed and then a jumper put in place of them. DIY did not tell me to do this but perhaps they would have assumed? I didn't want to damage anything so we didn't try and I was hoping when I asked them in an email they could answer but they did not.

gorillazfan1023

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What's the deal with the "output trigger type" setting in the vvtuner software? Is it bad that my vvtuner still adjusts the cam advance when I have "None (off)" selected?

gorillazfan1023

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Ok even though I don't anyone is checking this I'm going to keep updating it in hopes that I can get some info.

So I spent last night and most of today rewiring everything because I thought that was the problem. Nope. It runs good like 50% of the time. I don't know what it could be other then the VVT box itself now. Fidgiting with the wires while the car is running seems to yield no results. For example, the cam advance will be bouncing all over, wiggling the wires doesn't change anything yet maybe a minute later the cam advance may stop bouncing around. Other times the target advance and actual advance are basically perfectly matched up, wiggling and yanking on wires yields nothing. But then I can turn the car off and sometimes it starts right back up and seems to work and others it doesn't want to start up.

stefanst

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I guess the reason nobody's chiming in may be that the VVT Tuner is a rather specific piece of hardware that was never really widely used and has by now been abandoned by most owners in favor of the MS3X.
According to Vlad, the VVTT never really worked right.

Time to upgrade?

gorillazfan1023

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That makes sense I just wish I would have known that before I bought it. It's looking like it's time for the ms3 though I was really hoping it could get this working because I really need an engine rebuild.

Matt Cramer

They usually work pretty well - I'm going over with Kevin on what could cause the glitch, but it's a bit of an unusual one. Appears to be some form of noise on the cam signal.

gorillazfan1023

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I agree it seems to be noise in the cam signal as well. I just cant figure out why. I would assume that if the wiring were damaged, because I have the sensors shared, that when I'd plug the stock ecu in it would also run poorly, but it fires up quickly with no hesitation and idles smoothly. Unless something got messed up inside the box when we removed/replaced the resistors from the vvtuner. My friend works with someone who basically just assembles circuit boards and said he could take a look at it so I might pursue that.