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MEGAsquirt A place to collectively sort out this megasquirt gizmo

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Old 08-02-2007, 12:30 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
But you still need the controller at the harness right?

-------------

So if I want to keep my AC I will need to run the factory ECU and the megasquirt. Is that right?

How much extra complication does this make for me? Any downsides to using both instead of just the megasquirt? I dont quite understand how the factory ECU controls idle if the megasquirt controls the ignition and spark, are they communicating with each other?
It doesn't complicate in the slightest, if anything it makes it easier, as you don't have to build a curcuit to activate a relay to turn on the A/C compressor (which is all the stock ECU does)

now go and read the Megamanual, becuase if running parallel confuses you you're gonna have a hell of a time building/installing a MS unit......
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Old 08-02-2007, 03:23 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by richyvrlimited View Post
It doesn't complicate in the slightest, if anything it makes it easier, as you don't have to build a curcuit to activate a relay to turn on the A/C compressor (which is all the stock ECU does)

now go and read the Megamanual, becuase if running parallel confuses you you're gonna have a hell of a time building/installing a MS unit......
Oh I plan to read it cover to cover, there should be no doubt about that. I just want to be clear on a few things before I sit down and start reading and building. Like how they work in tandem.
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Old 08-02-2007, 03:42 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
Oh I plan to read it cover to cover, there should be no doubt about that. I just want to be clear on a few things before I sit down and start reading and building. Like how they work in tandem.
Read it first, then ask
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Old 08-03-2007, 12:10 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by FoundSoul View Post
Where I live AC is pretty much not optional... the droptop makes that at least almost arguable, but I like my A/C. I'm proud to be a 6'1" 210lb wimp then .

As for MSing a 90-95 Miata and using AC.... you're AC is controlled by the stock ECU so when you remove it you'll disable AC normally. We had to whip up a custom circuit to control it for the MSPNP's and it works fine. I'll know on the 96/97 pretty soon...
Good to hear this, A/C is a must for me as well. So MSPNP has this built in and works good?
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Old 08-03-2007, 01:24 PM   #25
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I still have the AC in my car and I've been testing the one of the 95 pnp's. The AC (and the cruise control!) works as it always did.
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Old 08-03-2007, 02:14 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
But you still need the controller at the harness right?
My wideband controller is in the engine bay. I think alot of guys who go turbo have them in the engine bay as well... because when they go turbo they have to install the O2 sensor way down the downpipe underneath the car... and since you only have so long a cord on the actual sensor, the controller needs to live down there.
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Old 08-03-2007, 04:20 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by reddroptop View Post
Read it first, then ask
Why you gotta be like that?

Well then answer me this then. Can cars that run both MS and factory ECU still pass inspection?
I know our cars are inspected through the OBD port, what happens when the time comes?
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:16 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richyvrlimited View Post
It doesn't complicate in the slightest, if anything it makes it easier, as you don't have to build a curcuit to activate a relay to turn on the A/C compressor (which is all the stock ECU does)

now go and read the Megamanual, becuase if running parallel confuses you you're gonna have a hell of a time building/installing a MS unit......
The stock ECU does more than just click on the clutch. It also ups the idle speed so that the engine won't stall when coming back down in the revs with the AC engaged. You can test this by unplugging the AC clutch and turning on the AC. The AC will not engage, but your idle will jump to 1400rpm or so. It normally stays lower with the AC on due to the parasitic draw of the compressor. Still should be easy enough to configure on the MS with a simple 12V/GND switch and a bit of software. I plan to keep my stock ecu in parallel for emissions reasons so I will never have to worry about this anyways.
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Old 08-04-2007, 08:52 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Arkmage View Post
The stock ECU does more than just click on the clutch. It also ups the idle speed so that the engine won't stall when coming back down in the revs with the AC engaged. You can test this by unplugging the AC clutch and turning on the AC. The AC will not engage, but your idle will jump to 1400rpm or so. It normally stays lower with the AC on due to the parasitic draw of the compressor. Still should be easy enough to configure on the MS with a simple 12V/GND switch and a bit of software. I plan to keep my stock ecu in parallel for emissions reasons so I will never have to worry about this anyways.
true, but if you're controlling the idle then all the stock ECU is doing is turning on the AC
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Old 08-04-2007, 08:56 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
Why you gotta be like that?
Because it's frustrating, 90% of your questions will be answered in the MegaManual. and if you can't figure the simple stuff out then you're going to post on here and trash the ECU because you can't get it to work at the more complicated bits

It's not personal tho mate, it's for your own good
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Old 08-04-2007, 11:06 PM   #31
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the lc-1 controller can be adjusted, so you can run whatever voltages you want to mimic a factory NB sensor...but you don't need to for ms of course.
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Old 08-07-2007, 12:25 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Arkmage View Post
I plan to keep my stock ecu in parallel for emissions reasons so I will never have to worry about this anyways.
Thats fantastic, thats one less problem for me to worry about. Guess I will run tandem as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by richyvrlimited View Post
Because it's frustrating, 90% of your questions will be answered in the MegaManual. and if you can't figure the simple stuff out then you're going to post on here and trash the ECU because you can't get it to work at the more complicated bits

It's not personal tho mate, it's for your own good
I know its not hate, im just messing with you. You know better so I will read the megamanual.
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Old 02-27-2008, 09:47 AM   #33
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I guess I'd rather post here than start another thread, so hopefully on topic for a naturally aspirated car:

I've got a 97 Miata. I plan on adding a 1999 head, 2001 intake manifold, custom gears. I spoke w/ Jimmy at FujiRacing and he's running a similar setup, except he's got IRTBs.

Until I go forced induction (most likely turbo), I was wondering what would be involved to install a Megasquirt kit. Since I live in Northern Virginia (NOVA), I do need to worry about OBDII. From what I gather, the kits that Neogenesis2004 and Braineack are what I need. I don't want a full standalone in order to pass emissions (OBDII check).

I'd love to hear any thoughts about what I need. I was planning for a custom exhaust w/ the Racing Beat header, so could have a bung for a wideband built.

thx!

-Ed
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Old 02-27-2008, 10:25 AM   #34
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Holy thread resurrection.

Have you read through this yet?
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17498

If you really want to learn everything you need, search for all threads and posts made by me from 3 months and older.
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Old 02-27-2008, 10:36 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saint_foo View Post
I guess I'd rather post here than start another thread, so hopefully on topic for a naturally aspirated car:

I've got a 97 Miata. I plan on adding a 1999 head, 2001 intake manifold, custom gears. I spoke w/ Jimmy at FujiRacing and he's running a similar setup, except he's got IRTBs.

Until I go forced induction (most likely turbo), I was wondering what would be involved to install a Megasquirt kit. Since I live in Northern Virginia (NOVA), I do need to worry about OBDII. From what I gather, the kits that Neogenesis2004 and Braineack are what I need. I don't want a full standalone in order to pass emissions (OBDII check).

I'd love to hear any thoughts about what I need. I was planning for a custom exhaust w/ the Racing Beat header, so could have a bung for a wideband built.

thx!

-Ed
**** Jimmy from FUJI racing. tool.

first you say you don't have to worry about obdII, then you say you do have to pass obdII testing. which is it?

As far as what you need, all you need is:
  • an MS in parallel or standalone depending on your obdII inspection needs
  • WBO2
  • optional IAT sensor, depending on if you remove you maf which depends on OBDII needs since it'll through a code
  • laptop to tune
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Old 02-27-2008, 11:55 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by paul View Post
**** Jimmy from FUJI racing. tool.

first you say you don't have to worry about obdII, then you say you do have to pass obdII testing. which is it?

As far as what you need, all you need is:
  • an MS in parallel or standalone depending on your obdII inspection needs
  • WBO2
  • optional IAT sensor, depending on if you remove you maf which depends on OBDII needs since it'll through a code
  • laptop to tune
Regarding Jimmy: ORLY? I'm still trying to feel out the community and vendors, so thanks. Seemed pretty nice on the phone.

If you reread the part that you highlighted on my post, I said that I DO NEED to worry about OBDII (not "DO NOT NEED"). Is that what you thought I wrote? From what I gather (please correct me if I'm wrong), I think I want the kit (Neogenesis2004 and Braineack) that runs in parallel to allow the ECU to control the AC and idle.

If it's an NA car, does it require a WB02? From what I read, it seems that WB02 is only needed for boosted cars. I PM'd Braineack about 20 mins ago, so if he replied as I'm typing this...sorry!

Sorry for a dumb question, what is the IAT? I haven't read what that acronym is.

Thanks for everyone's input...sorry for the bump from the dead. It's hard to read all these threads in a couple of days and bump/reply ones that are stale or redundant.

-Ed
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Old 02-27-2008, 11:59 AM   #37
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oops. my bad.

i run an MS in my NA miata. i run a wideband with it. Narrowbands suck. they are only accurate at stoich. other than that they can tell you rich or lean with no degree of accuracy. To use the MS to it's potential for tuning you want a wideband.

IAT is intake air temp sensor but if you are keeping the maf you don't need it. or has anyone figured out the check engine light after deleting the maf in a parallel install? in run standalone so not concerned. and both my squirted miatas are 94s
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Old 02-27-2008, 12:24 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul View Post
oops. my bad.

i run an MS in my NA miata. i run a wideband with it. Narrowbands suck. they are only accurate at stoich. other than that they can tell you rich or lean with no degree of accuracy. To use the MS to it's potential for tuning you want a wideband.

IAT is intake air temp sensor but if you are keeping the maf you don't need it. or has anyone figured out the check engine light after deleting the maf in a parallel install? in run standalone so not concerned. and both my squirted miatas are 94s
np.

I think I will get a wideband as well. Braineack returned my PM....so I'm leaning towards: MS kit, piggyback harness, WB02...and that's it?

I just want a parallel system that will get the most out of my head, intake manifold, cams, etc.

If you folks aren't too keen on Fujiracing, what would you recommend for cams? I've got adjustable gears that I can slap on (currently on my 1.8 - set to stock setting).
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Old 02-27-2008, 12:28 PM   #39
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are you gonna control the butterflies in the intake runners?
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Old 02-27-2008, 12:40 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by paul View Post
are you gonna control the butterflies in the intake runners?
From what I understand, correct me if I'm wrong, but Tommy at Partsgroup said there's a way to do so. He said a bunch of guys buy a 99 head, and newer intake manifolds. I think you need some sort of solenoid to be activated at certain rpm range(s) to do so. He said it wasn't hard.


....hard for someone other than me.

I'd love as much feedback, suggestions as possible.
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