Miata v Megasquirt
 

Mortal Combat has begun!

Adam v MegaSquirt
Round One Getting MS powered up and CAS decoder wheel Decoding - Accomplished
Round Two Getting Spark Working - Accomplished
Round Three Fuel - Accomplished
Round Four Dyno - 106rwhp

I'll keep everyone posted on excactly how to make this happen so everyone can squit.

Car: 1992 Miata 100% stock. Leaking OEM header mod.

This will be awesome! where did u get it from, what year is your car? Tell us everyting. ....specially.... what are you wearing.. haha but let us know what happens and what msitakes you make.

Ok, I have the megasquirt piggy backed to the 1.6L ECU.

I have it reading, RPM using generic encoder wheel. And according to D17 and D19 I should have good spark but haven't hooked that up yet. Tomorrow.

I have the 02 sensor hooked up and I'm getting .6v cold and it jumps from .3 to .6 warmed up. I think the 02 sensor is junk because it looks orginal and the car has 150k miles on it.

I have the coolant sensor hooked up.

I also hooked up the MAP sensor and its reading 26kpa at idle.

I need to find an open elelement Air Intake Sensor so I can ditch the MAF when I do the hand off to the megasquirt.

To get the CAS to work correctly I used a 470ohm 1/4 watt resistor and soildered one end to pin 3 on the map sensor (5v) and the other to the CPU pin 11. Then I ran a wire from CPU pin 11 to X11 which goes to pin 25 on the DB-37 connector.

I also took a 1.2k 1/2 watt resistor and soildered on end to pin 28 on the connector and the other to pin 24.

I want this to be more like a howto thread, so please try to ask only questions related to the topic at hand or clarifying the info posted, if you've got unrelated questions please make a new thread, I'm just going to be deleting anything unnecessary anyway.

Got ignition working today.

The car is showing proper timing with a timing light.

Code Version 26a

I removed the Transistors for D17 & D19
I replaced R25 & R28 with 330ohm resistors.

I connected the top of R25 to X12 -> Pin 27
I connected the top of R28 to X13 -> Pin 29
.
I connected Pin 27 to 1G Wire Color Brown-Yellow
I connected Pin 29 to 1H Wire Color Brown

I set my Trigger Angle to 73deg
I set Spark Invert to Yes.

I set Dwell to 5.5ms.
Max Discharge to .5ms

Normally anything over 4ms would be fine but the 1.6L ignition system is very weak. Make sure if you have a non-stock configuration or a 1.8L you start at 3.0ms and work your way
up until the coils start to get warm. They should remain cool to the touch.

what is 'Dwell' ?

Dwell is basicly the amount of time it takes the coil to charge. At low RPM's there is plenty of time to charge at high RPM's there my not be. So you define how long you want the coil to receive power to spark.

I may still upgrade the coils to 4G36 untils which run very well under boost and almost never fail.

would something like coils from a 1.8L miata work? I know some high end turbo guys switch over to them sometimes when they run more than 15psi of boost... I imagine useing DSM stuff would be cheap tho...

Adam 1 - MAF 0 :)

I just got fuel working on the MS and stock computer for spark. I also removed the MAF, which is a victory in its own. I need to check to see what the OEM ECU does for spark tables without the MAF.

I tried to get fuel and spark working together on the MS but I let the two channels of the coil outputs touch and they were canceling each other out and the flooded the car bad. I couldn't even get the OEM computer to restart the car from it. Plus my TPS isn't hooked up for flood clear yet. Anyways on to the details.

I went to NAPA and purchased: ECHTS5100 - Caged Air Intake Temp Sensor
I also bought: ECHTSC300 which is the connector for above sensor.
Cost me $46.00

I wired one lead into pin 20 and the other was spliced into the main MS ground. Boom instant ait temp readings.

1.6L 90-93
Connect ECU pin 2U Yellow to pins 32&33 on the MS
Connect ECU pin 2V Yellow-Black. to pins 34&35 on the MS

1.8L 94-95
Connect 2U Yellow to pin 32 on the MS
Connect 2V Yellow-Black to pin 34 on the MS
Connect Y2 White-Green to pin 33 on the MS
Connect Z2 Green to pin 35 on the MS

1.6L Fuel Pump Relay
I also had to add a relay to switch the relay for the fuel pump. The megasquirt fires the fuel pump by shorting pin 37 to ground. But, Mazda uses 12v to switch the relay for the fuel pump on the 1.6L. So I spliced into the MAF cable there is one plain black wire in the harness. This is the wire that needs 12v to switch the OEM relay on the 1.6L.
I used an automotive relay to convert the megasquirt fuel pump output to 12v.
Pin 87 was the black - fuel pump relay wire that needs 12v.
Pin 30 and 86 need to be connected to +12v
Pin 85 was connected to PIN37 on the megasquirt.

Also, a benefit of using a relay is it doesn't interfere with the operation of the MAF. When not using the megasquirt.

1.8L 94-95
You guys suck :-p
All you have to do is connect 2T Light-Green to pin 37 on the MS and your done.

Tomorrow is dyno day. I want to get fuel and spark running together for the dyno run. If not I'll just be running fuel and I'll do spark separately.

Dyno today - 106rwhp fuel only stock ECu running timing. Still had the MAF hooked up for timing. I'll post the chart soon.

King of l337, im really impressed with what you are doing. Is there an instruction manual you got with the megasquirt? Is it helping at all? WHere did you get the megasquirt? Where are you located?

Are you going to go stand alone with the Megaquirt?

The megasquirt does not come with an instruction manual other than whats online. I have been using msefi.com forums and scrapping bits together to get it working. I do plan to have it running full standalone.
.

If you can get a writeup with or without pics on how to get the M$ up and running on the miata I will gladly host it. I wanted to take the plunge, but there isn't enough documentation for me to go all-in.

I can host it on the foum too.

While I got spark to work fine I still want to try a few betterways of firing the ignitor and learn more about its oppperation. Unfortunatly its dark when I get home from work. So, I can see anything to work on it. Hopefully Sunday I will get a chance to finish everything up.

My T25 turbo parts are starting to come in.

I assume you're running MSnS on a MS1 board? What PCB are you using? Did you put it together, or buy one pre made?

Very curious, as I'm seriously thinking about it on the track car.. I was actually hinking about going with the EDIS setup. But would need to figure out how to get the 36-1 wheel mounted to the crank..

I am running MSnS on the v2.2 board but highly recommend using the v3.0 has it has many upgrades. Most importantly the board is more robust. The install is pretty much the same for both boards. I'm going to purchase a V3.0 for my 99 this winter and see how few parts I actually need to make it run right :).

I purchased my board assembled new but it had some improperly installed parts so the FIDLE didn't work. I fixed the F-Idle but don't use it.

Ok, I cleaned up my posts so they are easier to follow. I have the car running 90% on the megasquirt. I plan to update this post as I add functionality to the MS. Next is the cooling fan. Spark is good and strong compared to the way it was when I started.

I'm going to install my turbo and get a LC-1. I figure its better to pay 200.00 for a wideband 02 then spend that for 2hrs of dyno time.

If anyone has any questions that they feal will clarify the install let me know.

How's the install coming along, I'm thinking of DIY irtbs for my next miata, so the sooner you get all of this figured out, the sooner I can do my irtbs ;)

I just got a protege automatic trottle body for TPS input.
I also don't have the idle done yet, I'm working on that.
I also need to get the cooling fan going.
But you will have to setup your own TPS and idle contol for that setup. You just need a good MAP source.

Any TPS setup is doable, so whatever you can get to work, I will get put onto my IRTBs. Right now I'm thinking of using a "vacuum log," seems like it's popular among the Honda IRTB crew, and it works great, they hook up the brake booster, MAP sensor, IAC, and all the other goodies that rely on intake manifold pressure.

The megasquirt works with any TPS sensor that does 0-5volt progressively.

Any chance you could do a 2-part writeup. The first being installing and wiring the MS for just fuel, and then the second being wiring/setting up the MS for spark? A wiring diagram would also be good. I'm trying to compile all of the MS information, but not having worked with a MS myself (yet), I am having some trouble understanding most of the install.

Bump.

Hey King, any chance you could help out a fellow MS noob? As Weasel asked, is there anyway you could post a wiring diagram for wiring the CAS in with the MS?

It'd be nice if kingofl33t was still around. I'd like to ask him how it's going.

I have talked to kingofleet a few times online, but havent seen him in a few weeks. Last time he was on he meantioned that he was busy with work and putting his turbo get together, I am sure we will see him post up her sooner or later.

Good thread...

Thanks King

Just as a follow up, the ignition mods done are for the V2.2 board, and if more clarification is needed, follow the Tach Input section here:
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...alon_laser.htm

Then for the ignition output, follow the Output Mods here:
http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/setup-neon.html

At first I didn't understand what king was doing, so after a lot of digging, I came across this, hopefully it will clarify things. I believe pretty much everyone else is using a V3.0 board that's why.

Sorry everyone I fell off the planet. Winter is snowmobiling season and too cold to work on my car. The car runs good I haven't played with it much since I squirted it. I hope in the next two weeks to have it back on the dyno with a T25 strapped to it.

Also something to note the DSM ignition is diffrent then the 1.6L. You have to remove two transistors
on the ignition output I removed the Transistors for D17 & D19. Then you can fire the OEM ignitor.

So do your spark output LEDs flash after you removed the transistors? Mine are dead, I'd like to see if I'm getting a spark signal to them.

No the LED's are dead and removed after the transistors were removed. I could not get the coil to fire with the transistors installed connected to the resistors R25 and R29 on the v2.2 board.

Alright, that has been bugging me. As long as I know it is supposed to be like that, I'm ok. Thanks.

Why did you do this? Also, which wire is which on the CAS? Does the white go to the primary tach, and the yellow to the secondary? Or vice-versa?

The white cas wire is the primary.
The yellow is secondary.