Well, excitingly enough its all together now and blinking away with the stim as it should be.

Thanks for the help, Joe! I'm sure i'll need more later on :)

Haha, a little encouragement goes a long way :)

Is it even worth the trouble to wire this thing into the car before I have my WB02? I dont have the turbo in yet either but i'm really anxious to see how this works in the car...

Ok, so last night I continued through Brains writeup and installed the software, changed the various settings etc. Stopped at the point of "now you need to load a basemap" because I was getting a little (too) drunk to be doing anymore of it.

Today, I plug in the stim and nothing is happening. Only light i get is the IDL light on the stim. Is this normal? Did I fuck something up or can I start over? I dont know what the fuck the problem is now...nothing appears to have come loose inside...

Edit - Somehow its working again...lights are blinking away. Even more confused.

Just a wild guess, but after configuring the wheel settings menu in Megatune, you'd at that point need to reconfigure the wheel simulator on your JimStim. (This is a JimStim, right? The one with the 8 DIP switches?)

Specifically, you need to run a physical jumper wire from the pin labeled "2ND TRIG" to the pin corresponding to where you've set up your CMP input (usually I1A) and then set switches 2 & 3 on.


http://img33.picoodle.com/img/img33/...Am_2a99468.gif


Looks like you snuck in there with your edit while I was marking up the picture.

Oh, to answer a question you asked earlier, I wouldn't bother running it in the car for any length of time without WBO2.

This isn't a Jimstim. Megastim v 2.21

Mkay, I have another question that is stumping me right now.

Like I said, I got through Brain's writeup to the point of "now you need to install a basemap" and stopped.

I went to open megatune and I have it twice now in the megasquirt programs menu. They both say megatune 2.25 but have different pull-down menus and the megasquirt only seems to work with one of them (the one I installed whilst going through the megamanual).

Should I have uninstalled everything the megamanual had me install before going through brain's guide?

Oh.

Well, you won't be able to test the MS in its "full" configuration. Set the wheel decoder back to single I guess. I'm not sure why MegaTune still allows you to set wasted-spark and alternating injection with only one, non-missing-tooth wheel.


Sounds like you've got two completely different installs of MegaTune going on right now. Before we rectify this, a question- have you already re-flashed the CPU with MSnS-Extra code? (you would have used EasyTherm to do this step, most likely.)

Yes, i remember doing something in easy therm. If memory serves me right, I changed some things, selected the "Custom" code version then hit the "Write to..." button. Is that what you're speaking of?

Ok, i think i'm getting more and more confused.

I flashed firmware again, looks like i'm running 029y3, is this the correct firmware? Should I be using HiRes firmware? I'm completely stock right now, i want to get this all working before I put turbo stuff in.

After flashing the firmware, the behavior of the lights on the front of the 'squirt changed. The middle light used to be the warmup enrichment light, now it doesn't change when I turn the CLT knob on my stim. It blinks with the first light when I turn the RPM knob. Is this due to the fact that I dont have a jimstim?

I have an LC-1 now to go in with this thing. I'll be wiring it (the ms) directly into the stock harness, not going to bother trying to buy the tyco connector. I think i'm pretty close to installing this thing, prolly this weekend. I just want to make sure all my ducks are in a row first.

BTW, this is a standalone install as a reminder. Anything I should be made aware of before I install this thing, like a checklist of sorts? Things to expect?

Asking "Should I run HR code?" is like asking "Would I enjoy having sex more frequently?"



The functionality of the LEDs (as well as other pins) is going to vary depending upon your inputs to the "Codebase and Outputs Function" screen:

http://img34.picoodle.com/img/img34/...sm_0bafba3.gif

In the above example, you can see that the middle LED is set to Output 4 (not warmup) and the first and third are set to be the two spark outputs.


Without a JimStim, you're not going to properly simulate a Miata CAS. For now, you could go back into the wheel decoder screen and disable the second input. That should at least get you reading RPM, though in trugh I have no idea how wasted-spark will respond to this.

I'm already getting an RPM reading so i'm not going to worry about that stuff til I get the thing installed.

I understand there is a decision to be made on HR code which is why i asked if I should or not. My logic tells me it isn't going to make a difference unless i get bigger injectors. Am I correct in this assumption?

So Firmware 029y3 is correct then? I remember reading an aussie post calling out some issues related to this firmware.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/db37_MS_pinouts.jpg

What is this "shield" from pin 2 to pin 24? I'm trying to make sense of that while comparing it to the DB37 diagram in the mega manual. Am I just suppose to run a jumper wire between those pins or am I suppose to solder the shielding from the wire on pin 24 to pin 2?

Pins 1-2 and 7-19 are all grounds. So they're saying connect the shield from your input wire to pin 2. Odds are you don't even have a shield on the wire, so ignore this.

Run the High res code. It's the bandwagon everybody MS I is jumping on. Jump on with them if for no other reason than to have more people to get support from when you need help. '

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/v3ext_wiring.gif

Thanks pat for the input on using hires code.

The wire I have running to pin 24 does have a shield on it. Should I still ignore it?

Pat's on the money. If you buy the wiring kit from DIY, then the wire labeled as being for the primary ignition input is shielded. This serves no useful purpose in the Miata, it's a holdover from the VR sensor. If using this wire, the shield of it needs to be connected to a ground. Doesn't matter specifically which one.

I suggest using a piece of regular unshielded wire for this connection, both to reduce clutter and since the center conductor of the piece DIY provides is too thin, IMO, for a good crimp on the other end.

Sorry for not answering the code question earlier. I advise HR10g, which can be gotten here: http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?f=90&t=25336

Alright, sounds good. Thanks guys, will return with more questions shortly but atleast my DB37 connector is finished.

Oh, another question for those of you who wired the db37 directly into the car instead of using the tyco connector...

What crimp connectors did you use? In the past with alarm installs i've used T-Taps on the factory wires to get a connection. Should I use something better/more robust for these connections?

A small, token prize to the person who identifies all the different types of wiring devices that I used:

http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/harness/direct_db37.jpg

By way of meekly defending this mess, I'll note that I'd previously had an EMU in here, so any wire which had previously been tapped or cut for that simply got re-used. There are a few connectors hanging with nothing plugged into them- those were connections made for the EMU that weren't needed with the MS.

I see butt connectors, a T-Tap, spade connectors (male and female) and I think a wiring nut? What is that box with the wires on top of your squirt?

Ok, i have seen that image, i think I'm going to just use T-taps, they are the easiest thing to use. I really hate trying to tame a clusterfuck of wires =P